Ford put tow hitch on the Mach E and it can be seen here.

[emetz582]

The rear "structure" with 4 holes with side access was no accident. It was purposely designed for super easy mounting of a hitch. Why Ford says "never tow" is ridiculous and proves they have concerns, but not strength...thermal.

I'm a 3rd generation RV'er and have insane national towing miles under my belt. On the opposite spectrum I have towed a small 4x8 utility trailer with countless 4 bangers for over 30 years now. Even my Honda Hybrid since 2018, around town and long distance at 70mph. I'm 100% certain my Mach E can do the same without issue.

Bike racks included, with caution. Structurally, these are WORSE than any trailer. As you will find, bike racks can destroy hitch connections on anything. Anything. Even RV's and travel trailers. Its a forever issue, and 99% user error.

Sponsored

 

[21st Century Pony]

The rear "structure" with 4 holes with side access was no accident. It was purposely designed for super easy mounting of a hitch. Why Ford says "never tow" is ridiculous and proves they have concerns, but not strength...thermal.

If you are referring to the rear frames, there are six holes, three to each side. Plus a wiring hole for the tow wiring kit in the bottom of the trunk subfloor, sealed until use with a rubber grommet.

Ford says "never tow" here in North America, not on other continents. Likely because of potential liability issues... IMHO because of potential to overload the thermal system and also the braking system.

I have nearly 5,000 miles towing my teardrop so far. We will travel + camp this week to Georgia and Kentucky now that Spring camping season is about to open and the solar eclipse is coming to the Midwest

To wit: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...0-miles-through-snow-in-january-2024-d.33476/

 

[emetz582]

Only 4 mounting holes are used for the hitch installation for the 5 major brands out there. (Curt, Hidden, DrawTite, Stealth and Eco)

Very nice write up on your towing experience! That will help a LOT of people.

 

[Billyk24]

Wiring hurdles I have experienced via UHaul installation. Brake lights work, turn signals do not.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Wiring hurdles I have experienced via UHaul installation. Brake lights work, turn signals do not.

BillyK24, if you DM me I can help by walking you thru my working setup and troubleshooting yours.

 

[azerik]

Ford says "never tow" here in North America

Because #explorer+uhaul ?

 

[dtbaker61]

Yes there is a Ford CANBUS- integrated towing module in the Ford-authorized, Ford-labeled, Ford-sold Euro tow kit.

Based on info from several sources, there are three Mach E "OEM prep" levels for mounting this Ford-labeled tow system:

1. All Mach Es, sold worldwide including the North American versions, have a future tow wiring loom prep hole in the very bottom of their trunk floor, below the styrofoam insert. This prep hole is factory-plugged with a white throwaway rubber plug and is sized exactly to accept the Ford-authorized tow wiring loom. This is the basic prep level in every Mach E... but because the power connection to the tow wiring loom and the plug-&-play CANBUS connection are missing, this basic level needs the most amount of installation work to make the tow wiring fully integrated.

...snip

Of course, after the tow kit mechanicals (from whatever source) and the tow wiring loom are installed, an FDRS session needs to turn on the new tow control module for full integrated system and Synch functining.

so, why is a CANBUS connection and tow control module in Sync needed ?

why can't power for trailer tail-lights be spliced to MME tail-lights ?

 

[21st Century Pony]

so, why is a CANBUS connection and tow control module in Sync needed ?

why can't power for trailer tail-lights be spliced to MME tail-lights ?

"why is a CANBUS connection and tow control module in Sync needed ?"

- to integrate and in some cases shut off the Ford driver assist functions when a trailer is connected, and also to integrate some additional IPC and Synch towing-related software displays. A CANBUS connection is needed to integrate the provided Ford TRM into the overall braking system as an electric brake controller, when (if) the connected trailer has electric brakes. All this is important only when using the Ford (Europe) tow wiring kit.

"why can't power for trailer tail-lights be spliced to MME tail-lights ?"

- it can and that's what I did on my hookup, to include the reverse light.

 

[dtbaker61]

...

"why can't power for trailer tail-lights be spliced to MME tail-lights ?"

- it can and that's what I did on my hookup, to include the reverse light.

excellent.... did you happen to do a DIY writeup thread with pictures, etc? I plan to add a 4-wire kit 'soon' for my little utility trailer for turn/brake lights

 

[21st Century Pony]

excellent.... did you happen to do a DIY writeup thread with pictures, etc? I plan to add a 4-wire kit 'soon' for my little utility trailer for turn/brake lights

One of the things to do on my TO DO list.

I found that while the Ford towing kit mechanicals are an excellent and easily installable feature, the Ford (Europe) electric tow kit can be pretty much bypassed and is therefore a nice yet optional adition. The differences in the single vs dual brake + running light standards and some hidden BCM settings are a bit much to easily overcome when we can just do old-school electric circuit taps into the taillights.

 

[dtbaker61]

One of the things to do on my TO DO list.

I found that while the Ford towing kit mechanicals are an excellent and easily installable feature, the Ford (Europe) electric tow kit can be pretty much bypassed and is therefore a nice yet optional adition. The differences in the single vs dual brake + running light standards and some hidden BCM settings are a bit much to easily overcome when we can just do old-school electric circuit taps into the taillights.

In this case I am all about old-school simple taps.... for a 4'x8' utility trailer, not a 10,000# horse trailer with mechanical brakes.

did you happen to get any snapshots of where you'd suggest getting to the loom... I haven't pulled off the cargo hatch cover or side cargo covers to find easiest access yet.

 

[21st Century Pony]

In this case I am all about old-school simple taps.... for a 4'x8' utility trailer, not a 10,000# horse trailer with mechanical brakes.

did you happen to get any snapshots of where you'd suggest getting to the loom... I haven't pulled off the cargo hatch cover or side cargo covers to find easiest access yet.

It's actually really easy by pulling out the tail lights. Then you (we) tap the light wires and shove the new wires down the side body tunnels under the taillights. The new wires can be accessed from under the car by opening the two rectangular three-screw access panels in the underside rear diaper. I tied them all together there, added the extra wire from the reverse central light, added yet another (thicker, ground) wire to an OEM grounding point visible under the trunk floor, shrink-wrapped them for anti-chafing, added two Dorman waterproof quick-disconnect connectors, and finished with a 7-way receptacle.

FYI - I used Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock connectors throughout. You can't go wrong using Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock products.

I'll add the tail light connector plug wiring diagram later... that's really the only knowledge factor needed to do this.

 

[21st Century Pony]

It's actually really easy by pulling out the tail lights. Then you (we) tap the light wires and shove the new wires down the side body tunnels under the taillights. The new wires can be accessed from under the car by opening the two rectangular three-screw access panels in the underside rear diaper. I tied them all together there, added the extra wire from the reverse central light, added yet another (thicker, ground) wire to an OEM grounding point visible under the trunk floor, shrink-wrapped them for anti-chafing, added two Dorman waterproof quick-disconnect connectors, and finished with a 7-way receptacle.

FYI - I used Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock connectors throughout. You can't go wrong using Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock products.

I'll add the tail light connector plug wiring diagram later... that's really the only knowledge factor needed to do this.

So here is the wiring diagram for the 2021 - 2023 Mach E outer (body) taillight.

Also two pictures of the body-side and taillight-side connectors. As you can see, not all the pin slots are used.

After pulling the outer taillights out from the body, I found it much easier to attach my Posi-Tap new towing signal light wires to the taillight side rather than to the body side. Those of us who added the AOSK lights down in the lower rear corner reflector spaces, the AOSK plug & play interconnector harness between the taillight and the body connector is the perfect place to tap into. Alternately, you might as well add those AOSK lower lights now while doing the tow harness lights tap

I also sheathed the group of new towing wires within a loose small-diameter shrinkwrap tube (without shrinking it!) before I pushed everything into the vertical cavity below the taillight mounting space. IMHO the long shrinkwrap tube acts as a good sleeve to prevent the wires chafing or wrapping around something in that cavity.

NOTE: to add the reverse light, look at the two wires coming from the central reverse light down in the lower bumper cover... Posi-Tap into the right wire and add the new reverse wire to the signal + brake lights wire bundle.