Why would you want to make your own harness? They are back in stock. The problem with making your own is the PCB connector is only sold in bulk (minimum order of 300).
I've been working on some logic to fix it. The root cause is that Comma is only using one of the four signals Ford designed for lane centering. Without the other 3 signals it's harder to hold it perfectly straight. I'll reach out to you when it's ready for another tester.Over the weekend I had the opportunity to take the C3X and Mach E for about a 120 mile trip which was mostly divided highway. It all worked extremely well but I did notice some "ping-ponging" within the lane. Is there any adjustment for that or a toggle I should or should not have on in the C3X settings? It wasn't extreme but it was noticeable and kind of annoying.
Sorry for the late reply. I don't have my car as its getting a new HVBJB right now. I have it running out from the trim connection on the lower part of the backseat, near the bottom cushion.
Please keep us updated as I'm very interested in how this will work with the Mach E!I finally bit the bullet and bought a second harness so I could do some testing in the Mach E to see if it behaves differently than the F150 with the steering logic I'm working on.
- Remove the trunk floor and emergency kit styrofoam:
- Remove two bolts that are holding the trim panel in place, these use a 5/16 socket and are on the inside back wall, below the trunk floor level:
- Pop up the plastic cover on the D-Ring tie downs on the sill cover and remove the screw with a T25 Torx bit
- Pop the sill trim off, it pulls straight up
- Now pop the drivers side-cover loose. It just pulls out, and it goes from the back all the way to the rear seat. I did not pull it 100% loose, just the end near the lift gate to access the IPMA and the end near the rear door to feed the cable through
- The IPMA is right at the lift gate. You need to intercept the middle plug. It's black and right below the grey one.
- After I hooked in the harness, I hooked up the Comma with a short USB 3.2 Gen 2 USB-C cable and started the car to make sure there were no issues with the harness and harness box
- Next I routed my USB-C cables. I used a 10 foot and a 6 foot. Where they met I put a little electrical tape to make sure they wouldn't come loose while I was routing the cable.
- I started routing the USB cable from the front so any slack would be in the back. Pop off the mirror cover (pulls straight down)
- You can see I'm using my sliding dock so I don't have a cable hanging down when I take the Comma out.
- Next remove the drivers side windshield pillar trim. It's not as bad as it seems. Pop it off, then remove the black plastic tethers by pinching the star shaped nub on the tether and twisting. There are two notches that you have to work free from the trim:
- Now the tethers need to be removed from the car, it's much easier to reinstall the trim. Use a plastic pry too to leverage them down, then an electrical screwdriver to release the tabs on all 4 corners
- Put the tethers back on the trim piece
- Next we need to get the trim between the front and rear door loose so we can route the cable
- The bottom half just pops off
- There is one 10mm bolt to remove
- Then the top piece pulls down and out
- now the USB cable can be routed. Under the headliner, across the corner of the drivers pillar, under the headliner all the way to the back seat, then down the trim and into the back where the IPMA is.
- After that you just need to put everything back to together in reverse order.
After a 30 minute drive I can say Comma on the Mach E is far superior to the F150. Because the steering is so tight it responds cleaner and faster. I just did end 2 end navigation and it took 3 left turns my F150 can’t even attempt. It also has way less ping pong and steering wheel wiggle since the steering responds so fast.
yes. I’m not running BluePilot. I’m testing logic we hope to incorporate in the future. Just showing you guys what we are working towards.
Well it looks freaking amazing!!
