Mach-E Aftermarket wheel and tire information and pictures

[RetiredDP]

Just picked up the car this week, so now I can officially start shopping for wheels. I got a 2022 Black Premium RWD Extended Batt. I didn’t need the extra range, so I have zero concern on how my new setup will affect it.
I do plan on lowering the car at some point, so I want to stay flush with the fenders. No poke.
I’ve read though the various tire threads and have these as possible options:

Option 1
Front: 20x9 ET 35 on 255/45 (265 still works)
Rear: 20x10.5 ET 45 on 285/40 (295 still works)
This is @markboris setup. There should be no issues here. Much easier to source the wheels.

Option 2
Front: 21x9 ET 40 on 265/40 (255 might be better)
Rear: 21x10.5 ET 45 (up to 50) on 295/35
Looking at @metoo and @MMXX500 setups, this was my best estimate.

Tires: Pirelli Scorpion Zero (both options)

I like Option 2 and would rather go that route, but there is far less examples to take notes from. I’m pretty set on going 10.5 wide in the rear but I’m not sure if I can even find wheel with a +50 offset if it comes down to it lol….help! There is definitely less choices here.

Can someone bring some clarity to my offset numbers for Option 2??

A 10.5" wheel with a +50 offset WILL.NOT.FIT!!!!!! I tried a 10" wheel with a +47 offset, and it did not fit.

And I'm tired of repeating this, but: The Mach-E understeers (the front tires in a corner lose traction first, before the rears). Going with WIDER tires on the rear will make the Mach-E understeer MORE...which will make the handling worse.

Sponsored

 

[markboris]

A 10.5" wheel with a +50 offset WILL.NOT.FIT!!!!!! I tried a 10" wheel with a +47 offset, and it did not fit.

And I'm tired of repeating this, but: The Mach-E understeers (the front tires in a corner lose traction first, before the rears). Going with WIDER tires on the rear will make the Mach-E understeer MORE...which will make the handling worse.

Steve, you have mentioned this before and I have also replied back with I have run 10" wide wheels with a +47 offset with 275/40, 285/40 and 295/40 tires for over 9 months on my Premium and on my GTPE for a short time. I am not the only one that runs that exact wheel specs and tire size on the rear. Off the top of my head the only member I can think of that has run this setup (same exact wheels and tires as me) for over a year is Joe (louibluey) however there are two other members that bought the same exact setup and some others purchased other wheels and tire brands, same sizes. None of us have had any issues. Maybe the tires you ran had a more bulging sidewall profile or maybe your rear camber was set different than ours. Maybe some of the other members here that are running 10" and 10.5" wide wheels will chime in.

At the current time, I am running 10.5" ET +47 wheels with 315/35/20 tires however I had to slightly modify the rear upper shock mount to allow that setup.

As far as running wider tires in the rear, totally agree with you that it will understeer more. However, if you add a Steeda Rear Sway bar, and set it to the stiffest setting, it will reduce the understeer close to what is it stock. Also, not everyone tracks or auto crosses their car like you do so not as concerned with the understeer. I like the much better traction I get with the wider tires and also like the look of a staggered setup. Sure it is not for everyone (cannot rotate tires and has more understeer) but it handles better, more traction and looks great.

 

[Silent_One]

A 10.5" wheel with a +50 offset WILL.NOT.FIT!!!!!! I tried a 10" wheel with a +47 offset, and it did not fit.

And I'm tired of repeating this, but: The Mach-E understeers (the front tires in a corner lose traction first, before the rears). Going with WIDER tires on the rear will make the Mach-E understeer MORE...which will make the handling worse.

Now that’s a proper welcome, I love it. Thank you for that. However, I have no intention to be driving my MME hard enough to be pushing that limit. I literally have the SLOWEST (see what I did here?) model currently available. This was a BIG decision point buying it, coz I like fast everything. This is going to be my DD, I just want it to look good.
Please expand on your experience.
Which wheels didn’t fit?
Which tires did you use?
What was the issue? What didn‘t fit?
Please point me in the right direction. I still don’t know how wide I can go on the rear.

Steve, you have mentioned this before and I have also replied back with I have run 10" wide wheels with a +47 offset with 275/40, 285/40 and 295/40 tires for over 9 months on my Premium and on my GTPE for a short time. I am not the only one that runs that exact wheel specs and tire size on the rear. Off the top of my head the only member I can think of that has run this setup (same exact wheels and tires as me) for over a year is Joe (louibluey) however there are two other members that bought the same exact setup and some others purchased other wheels and tire brands, same sizes. None of us have had any issues. Maybe the tires you ran had a more bulging sidewall profile or maybe your rear camber was set different than ours. Maybe some of the other members here that are running 10" and 10.5" wide wheels will chime in.

At the current time, I am running 10.5" ET +47 wheels with 315/35/20 tires however I had to slightly modify the rear upper shock mount to allow that setup.

As far as running wider tires in the rear, totally agree with you that it will understeer more. However, if you add a Steeda Rear Sway bar, and set it to the stiffest setting, it will reduce the understeer close to what is it stock. Also, not everyone tracks or auto crosses their car like you do so not as concerned with the understeer. I like the much better traction I get with the wider tires and also like the look of a staggered setup. Sure it is not for everyone (cannot rotate tires and has more understeer) but it handles better, more traction and looks great.

That is some great information! I had your 295 number in before, and I used it as starting point for my 21” calculations. I wanted to make it work with +45 offset because there are many more wheel options. Here is what it looked like:

My proposed setup is smaller in every way, aside from a 2mm poke increase. Following your past work, I know you’ve tried a great number of tire setups and know exactly what it looks like under there.
From what you can tell, do you foresee any issues with my setup? I could move down to 285/35 tires, do you think that will make up for the extra poke up top? Have you tried these Pirelli Scorpion tires on any of these setups?
Even if it this all works, will I be able to lower the car? So many questions lol
Thank you for your input @markboris

 

[markboris]

That is some great information! I had your 295 number in before, and I used it as starting point for my 21” calculations. I wanted to make it work with +45 offset because there are many more wheel options. Here is what it looked like:

My proposed setup is smaller in every way, aside from a 2mm poke increase. Following your past work, I know you’ve tried a great number of tire setups and know exactly what it looks like under there.

From what you can tell, do you foresee any issues with my setup? I could move down to 285/35 tires, do you think that will make up for the extra poke up top? Have you tried these Pirelli Scorpion tires on any of these setups?
Even if it this all works, will I be able to lower the car? So many questions lol
Thank you for your input @markboris

When I ran a 20"x10" +47 ET wheel, with 295/40/20 tires, I had no issues with the suspension or any rubbing. That is what you need to compare your proposed 21"x10.5" +45 ET with 295/35/21 tire with. In doing this setup, your inset will be about 5mm MORE than my setup. That may cause a problem with the tire rubbing the rear shock upper mount depending on your camber setting and how heavy you will load your car. With my 20"x10.5" +47 ET wheels and 315/35/20 tire, I did have that issue and modified the rear shock upper mount so it was set back a bit further. What I am saying is, your proposed set up is more similar to what I am running now and you might have an issue. If you can go with 21"x10" +45 ET wheel and 295/35/21, that would be better. If you want a fitment with absolute no issues then 21"x10" +45 ET wheel with a 285/35/21 would be it. You wouldn't have to worry about it rubbing the suspension if you loaded the car down or wanted to run more negative camber.

Another thing that can affect rubbing is the sidewall profile on your tire. You asked if I had run Pirelli tires and yes I have. P Zero PZ4, P Zero All Season Plus and Scorpion Zero All Season Plus. All of these tires have a sidewall profile that bulge, like most tires. In fact most tire manufactures have the rounded sidewall look. That can cause the sidewall to rub the shock mount if you are really close in clearance tolerance. The Michelin Pilot Sport 4s has a very flat sidewall profile and allows me to run my setup without rubbing. It is not much but every mm counts when you try to stuff a wide tire in and you want very little poke.

About the tires themselves, all of those Pirelli's I mentioned definitely ride smoother (less harsh) than the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s (and have also ran Michelin's Pilot Sport 4 SUV, Pilot Sport All Season 4 and Latitude Sport 3). They are also quieter too.

 

[connoisseurr]

Hi,

I know extremely little about wheels so was hoping someone can help! Want to get wider tires, 20” rims and wheels to sit closer to the fenders, but without sacrificing too much range.

have found a set of used Volvo XC90 rims with good aerodynamics that look ok.

5/108 - 63.4 - ET: 38.5 - 9” wide, 20” rim.

will these rims fit? By the looks of I think so, I was mainly concerned if the 38.5 offset will make it sit too close to the fenders, I will use mainly as a family car (…) so don’t want it to look as if it’s poking out or that it sits Right next to the fenders.

I will put 255 tires on them (any brand/model suggestions very welcome).

big thanks in advance

Go with a low rolling resistance tire, which is typically one with an eco focus. This will help minimize the range degradation.

Continental LX/LX25
Michelin Pilot Sport 4 A/S

 

[guyduquette]

Wow, great thread. Here are the details of the wheels/tires I purchased. More pictures to come! [dead lawn due to water ban].

=== === ===
Purchased from TireRack....
Niche Wheel:
each wheel is 6lbs heavier than stock 7".
https://www.nicheroadwheels.com/wheel/14754/niche-sport-series-mazzanti-m261/?finish=12&part=M261198531+40

Michelin Tire:
- Pilot Sport All Season 4

• 245/50ZR19
• Style: Blackwall
• Load Range: XL
• Serv. Desc: 105

- Tire diameter overall looks like a match:
225 60 R18 = 28.63
245 50 R19 = 28.65

 

[markboris]

Changing out my gloss black, light concave Signature SV706 wheels with gloss black, polished face, medium concave Signature SV706 wheels. So basically the same wheel design except with a polished aluminum face and a deeper concave (same sizes 20"x9.5" ET 33 front, 20"x10.5" ET 47 rear). I am over the all black wheel on this silver car as it is a bit too much contrast for me and you really don't see the wheel design unless it is in bright light. I posted here a couple of pages back some photos regarding this #465

I saw an Audi Q8 awhile back with OEM wheels that had a similar 5-spoke design as mine plus the concave was deeper and really liked them. It was a clean and simple look so decided to go for it.

I'm having them ceramic coated today and later this week will take the tires off of my current wheels and have them installed on the new ones. Sold the current wheels to my friend that bought my Premium last year.

Audi Q8

My current SV706 wheels (gloss black, light concave)

New SV706 wheels (gloss black, polished face, medium concave)

Quick comparison between the two wheels.

 

[mkhuffman]

Changing out my gloss black, light concave Signature SV706 wheels with gloss black, polished face, medium concave Signature SV706 wheels. So basically the same wheel design except with a polished aluminum face and a deeper concave (same sizes 20"x9.5" ET 33 front, 20"x10.5" ET 47 rear). I am over the all black wheel on this silver car as it is a bit too much contrast for me and you really don't see the wheel design unless it is in bright light. I posted here a couple of pages back some photos regarding this #465

I saw an Audi Q8 awhile back with OEM wheels that had a similar 5-spoke design as mine plus the concave was deeper and really liked them. It was a clean and simple look so decided to go for it.

I'm having them ceramic coated today and later this week will take the tires off of my current wheels and have them installed on the new ones. Sold the current wheels to my friend that bought my Premium last year.

Audi Q8

My current SV706 wheels (gloss black, light concave)

New SV706 wheels (gloss black, polished face, medium concave)

Quick comparison between the two wheels.

Your wheels are starting to look a little like mine!

 

[sborsch]

20" x 8.5 +50 with 245/45/20.

Classy and sophisticated look. Can you let us know where you got the wheels? Also, if there has been much of a negative impact on range?

 

[Nugatti]

Imaz Wheels Ff499 Black 20x9 offset 38.
Lassa Competus H/P2 245/45 R20 103Y.
20.790 SEK, with TPMS and centering rings.
The wheels are really flush with the fenders.. almost too far out, but I think it's okay
Got them ceramic coated, like the rest of the car. Now I want one inch lowering, and I'll be done.

 

[metoo]

And I'm tired of repeating this, but: The Mach-E understeers (the front tires in a corner lose traction first, before the rears). Going with WIDER tires on the rear will make the Mach-E understeer MORE...which will make the handling worse.

Have your tried a stiffer rear anti-swaybar or do you feel that's just a band-aid?

 

[RetiredDP]

Have your tried a stiffer rear anti-swaybar or do you feel that's just a band-aid?

Not a band-aid...stiffer rear anti-swaybars reduce understeer. I've put them on all of my cars (two WRX's, a Focus RS and the GTPE). I'm running the Steeda at the 300# setting, as recommended by Steeda. Go to the Steeda site for a before-&-after video showing the improvement. Normal anti-sway setting on a GTPE, with the OEM swaybar, is 200#.

 

[markboris]

Finally got around to installing my new wheels yesterday. As I mentioned in the post above (#487) they are the same Signature SV706 wheels I've had for 18 months (they were previously on my Premium) but with a polished face and a deeper concave. Between Terrance and I, we tweaked the specs to get them to not only fit the tires I wanted to run but my main concern is always poke. I have mentioned this many times I don't like tires that poke way out past the top fender moulding.

All four tires have the same amount of poke exactly. The outer sidewall of each tire (not the tread) comes out just 3/16" (4.5mm). I can accept this little amount of poke for the tire size and look I wanted. As far as suspension clearance, the front inner sidewall has 1/2" to the front strut and in the rear the inner sidewall has 1/4" to the upper shock mount. I did have to rework (milled down) both sides (front and rear) of that mount to gain 1/4" as it would rub if the car was loaded down and you go over large bumps. For the inner fender well lining, there was no issues in the front but in the rear, I had to pull back the lining in one area and used a screw to do that.

Even though the wheels are exactly the same design, they really do look completely different when you have the face polished. This is exactly want I wanted as the all black wheel on my silver car was too much contrast for me. I like dark wheels on darker cars (my previous Infinite Blue) and lighter wheels on lighter cars. You never really saw the design of the wheel and in many photos I took they looked like black holes. There are many members here that have posted really cool black wheels but many times I have to zoom into the photo to check out the design. Yes I am picky and probably have OCD or whatever but that is how I roll.

Specs:
Wheels: Signature SV706 gloss black/polished face medium concave
Front 20"x9" ET 33 Rear 20"x10.5" ET 47

Tires: Michelin Pilot Sport 4 Acoustic (NO)
Front 275/40/20 Rear 315/35/20

Note: Both of these tire sizes are the same diameter (28.7) as the OEM tires and they have the same sidewall height (4.3"). I wanted to keep everything as close as possible to the OEM specs so as not to have a speedometer, range or AWD error and didn't want super thin sidewalls for a more harsh ride. Also, when you view the tires from the side, they look identical to the proportions of the OEM wheels/tires. Only the width has changed. Front tires are 1.2" wider and rears are 2.8" wider. I have thought of lowering the car a bit which I have done on many cars but I use this one for everything now that I sold my truck. That said, I am always transporting people back and forth from the airport and going on long drives with the car loaded and I need the suspension travel it has now.

 

[method93]

Definitely digging the contrast. A friend convinced me of the same to avoid that all-black void and lack of contrast that can happen....

 

[PalsyWalsy]

Finally got around to installing my new wheels yesterday. As I mentioned before in the post above (#487) they are the same Signature SV706 wheels I've had for 18 months but with a polished face and a deeper concave. Between Terrance and I, we tweaked the specs to get them to not only fit the tires I wanted to run but my main concern is always poke. I have mentioned this many times I don't like tires that poke way out past the top fender moulding.

All four tires have the same amount of poke exactly. The outer sidewall of each tire (not the tread) comes out just 3/16" (4.5mm). I can accept this little amount of poke for the tire size and look I wanted. As far as suspension clearance, the front inner sidewall has 1/2" to the front strut and in the rear the inner sidewall has 1/4" to the upper shock mount. I did have to rework (milled down) both sides (front and rear) of that mount to gain 1/4" as it would rub if the car was loaded down and you go over large bumps. For the inner fender well lining, there was no issues in the front but in the rear, I had to pull back the lining in one area and used a screw to do that.

Even though the wheels are exactly the same design, they really do look completely different when you have the face polished. This is exactly want I wanted as the all black wheel on my silver car was too much contrast for me. I like dark wheels on darker cars (my previous Infinite Blue) and lighter wheels on lighter cars. You never really saw the design of the wheel and in many photos I took they looked like black holes. There are many members here that have posted really cool black wheels but many times I have to zoom into the photo to check out the design. Yes I am picky and probably have OCD or whatever but that is how I roll.

Specs:
Wheels: Signature SV706 gloss black/polished face medium concave
Front 20"x9" ET 33 Rear 20"x10.5" ET 47

Tires: Michelin Pilot Sport 4 NO Acoustic
Front 275/40/20 Rear 315/35/20

Note: Both of these tire sizes are the same diameter (28.7) as the OEM tires and they have the same sidewall height (4.3"). I wanted to keep everything as close as possible to the OEM specs so as not to have a speedometer, range or AWD error and didn't want super thin sidewalls for a more harsh ride. Also, when you view the tires from the side, they look identical to the proportions of the OEM wheels/tires. Only the width has changed. Front tires are 1.2" wider and rears are 2.8" wider. I have thought of lowering the car a bit which I have done on many cars but I use this one for everything now that I sold my truck. That said, I am always transporting people back and forth from the airport and going on long drives with the car loaded and I need the suspension travel it has now.

So I am already jealous of the wheel swapping you have been doing (these look great), but anyone else jealous of the sweet lift he has in his garage? (I know you have shown it before, but it is worth repeating)