Mach E as home power?

[dtbaker61]

Does anyone make a traction battery DC to 240 Volt AC inverter?

not officially, and not directly via the charge port.

there is talk of bi-directional chargers, but nothing off-the-shelf I am aware of.

for up to 2000watt export, you can use the existing 12v "connection points", and use a simple cheap 12v->120vAC inverter.

However, if you are into a completely DIY r&d project... you *could* consider the following for up to 5000w export:

- locate the HV dc connector powering your dc-dc converter. this is the orange conduit pretty easy to see/access after you remove the rear "beauty cover."

- use positaps (or similar) to tap the HV power... and add mc-4 connectors and PV wire to a 600v solar charge controller. This line in the MME can provide up to 5000 watts of dc at 350-400 volts.... which is perfectly acceptable input to most modern hybrid Solar inverters. The MME would simply look like a 5kw solar array... as long as you can limit the current export in the inverter settings, all should be well.

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[ipca204]

we are in the process of buying an equinox EV and serously considering the Gm Energy system to become backup power for our home in AZ...

 

[dtbaker61]

The power isn’t coming from that small battery, it comes from the engine. The truck is specifically engineered to provide job-site power from the truck‘s ICE and one of the Motor/Generators. The Mach-E isn’t a truck. It isn’t meant to fulfill the same niche as the F-150 hybrid.

It is NOT hard or very expensive to add cables to "tap" the 12v. I have fabricated a couple sets for people and add a link to the Marketplace if people are interested. Last set I made came to $225 for time, materials, and shipping included. Installation takes around 30 minutes.

Then, all you need is a decent 12vDC -> 120vAC inverter.... typical cost is less than $400 for the inverter. I have put several of these together, in a nice plastic enclosure, perfect for direct V2L up to 2000watts. I can also make and add customer connectors to enable use as an "emergency generator", or "shore power" to RVs, cabins, yurts, small sound stages, etc.

 

[music_cities]

It is NOT hard or very expensive to add cables to "tap" the 12v. I have fabricated a couple sets for people and add a link to the Marketplace if people are interested. Last set I made came to $225 for time, materials, and shipping included. Installation takes around 30 minutes.

Then, all you need is a decent 12vDC -> 120vAC inverter.... typical cost is less than $400 for the inverter. I have put several of these together, in a nice plastic enclosure, perfect for direct V2L up to 2000watts. I can also make and add customer connectors to enable use as an "emergency generator", or "shore power" to RVs, cabins, yurts, small sound stages, etc.

I like the way @dtbaker61 does it. One can also buy a combo solution from https://www.cargenerator.com/ , but then it still needs to be tapped to the battery terminals.

 

[dtbaker61]

MME to the rescue today for a 12v "boondocker" that over discharged their batteries without a generator..... I go tthey back up and running in less than an hour by dumping in 12v at 130amps straight from 12 connection.

 

[areacode413]

Unless it can be plugged into the charge port, there is no way to do it safely. That's why I specifically asked for that.

I appreciate your specificity.

 

[dtbaker61]

Unless it can be plugged into the charge port, there is no way to do it safely. That's why I specifically asked for that.

there are lots of ways to do it safely if instructions are followed, just not "fool-proof".

 

[Mach-Lee]

MME to the rescue today for a 12v "boondocker" that over discharged their batteries without a generator..... I go tthey back up and running in less than an hour by dumping in 12v at 130amps straight from 12 connection.

Make sure you keep an eye on the DC/DC + wire temperature, high amperage for a long period will get the wire very hot. The wires in the car were not sized for sustained 12V loads greater than about 100 amps. Just like EV charging, sustained amp loads are a different ball game.

 

[dtbaker61]

Make sure you keep an eye on the DC/DC + wire temperature, high amperage for a long period will get the wire very hot. The wires in the car were not sized for sustained 12V loads greater than about 100 amps. Just like EV charging, sustained amp loads are a different ball game.

amps drop from 130 to about 50 within a few minutes as voltage in the "dead" battery comes up. I am using 2awg welding wire.... good for 100a continuous, but you're right the wire in the MME under the connection points is not 2awg, so I would not want to run too high for too long

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