Mach-E non-functional after 23B50 charge cord stuck recall service

EchoRomeo

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Has this happened to anyone else? I just had the charge cord stuck recall fix completed at the dealership on Friday. I plugged in last night and this morning the car's getting zero power... can't even open the doors. The battery was low when I got it home last night (7%), but still, it should be charging... I'm using a Grizzle Duo charging station, which is working fine (my other car, a Bolt, charged fine last night).

Calling the dealership to see if they can tow and fix it...just curious if anyone else ran into this issue or has advice...seems like the dealer messed up and it's not a problem with the car but I'm not 100% sure. Thanks!
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Has this happened to anyone else? I just had the charge cord stuck recall fix completed at the dealership on Friday. I plugged in last night and this morning the car's getting zero power... can't even open the doors. The battery was low when I got it home last night (7%), but still, it should be charging... I'm using a Grizzle Duo charging station, which is working fine (my other car, a Bolt, charged fine last night).

Calling the dealership to see if they can tow and fix it...just curious if anyone else ran into this issue or has advice...seems like the dealer messed up and it's not a problem with the car but I'm not 100% sure. Thanks!
If you can't open the doors, you have a dead 12V (regardless of HVB SoC). If you can, jump the frunk open through the bumper and then connect a 12V source inside the frunk which will power the doors and allow you to start the car. Then the in-car display may give you more information about what's going on.
 
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EchoRomeo

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If you can't open the doors, you have a dead 12V (regardless of HVB SoC). If you can, jump the frunk open through the bumper and then connect a 12V source inside the frunk which will power the doors and allow you to start the car. Then the in-car display may give you more information about what's going on.
Thanks! Ford Roadside Assistance is coming for the car now. I'm not quite comfortable/able to power the 12V to unlock the door as you described but I appreciate the helpful info. The tow is fully covered under warranty... hopefully this is a straightforward fix!
 

RickMachE

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I believe that many of the times the issue is the dealership tech that just serviced the car. They run down the 12v battery, then send the car home with the owner, who drives a few miles and parks it. Low 12v loses 3 - 5% more per day, and goes dead.
 

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I believe that many of the times the issue is the dealership tech that just serviced the car. They run down the 12v battery, then send the car home with the owner, who drives a few miles and parks it. Low 12v loses 3 - 5% more per day, and goes dead.
Yep, sounds very plausible and at 7% SoC on the big battery, the DCDC wouldn't come on to save itself.
 


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The battery was low when I got it home last night (7%), but still, it should be charging... I'm using a Grizzle Duo charging station, which is working fine (my other car, a Bolt, charged fine last night).
The 12V battery is not automatically recharged when the HVB is less than 20%. If you get home with less than 20% battery, you should plug in and charge immediately so that doesn't happen. The usual warning about hardwired dash cams draining the 12V battery applies.

Not sure if you had a 12V drain (any messages lately?), or if the battery was just low from dealer service.

You'll have to jump start it, follow the directions in the manual. Once you get it started, charge immediately.
 

iam-s-Hon

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Yep, sounds very plausible and at 7% SoC on the big battery, the DCDC wouldn't come on to save itself.
The few times I’ve had mine in for something I leave home with a full charge on the HVB. That’s usually 90% unless I remember to start a charge when I first get up.

I’ve also invested the small amt in an OBD scanner to occasionally check the LVB.

With that said: A) hope future iterations do a better job with prenvention. B) dealers and techs do a better job noticing these settings and applying better practices. It shouldn’t be too hard for a Ford tech to observe the HVB/LVB and if SOC is low plug it into their L2, or something.
 
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EchoRomeo

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Thanks everyone. Yeah, after jumping the 12V I was able to charge the HVB again. The problem appears to be that, after the 23B50 update, my third-party charger (GRIZZL-E Duo) doesn't appear to work at all. The only charger that works now is the Ford OEM one that came with the car.

The GRIZZL-E has always been glitchy in terms of always triggering the "electrical system drain service required" error when plugged in...so there's something about using a third-party charger that drains the 12V. However, even though it caused that error, the GRIZZL-E would always still charge the HVB...so even with the 12V drain it would still function.

Not sure what it was about the recall update that caused the GRIZZL-E Duo to no longer work but it's super inconvenient, since I'll now have to alternate plugging in the charging station vs. Ford charger depending on what car I'm charging.

I'm wondering if Ford would let me roll back the recall update to restore charging function?
 

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Thanks everyone. Yeah, after jumping the 12V I was able to charge the HVB again. The problem appears to be that, after the 23B50 update, my third-party charger (GRIZZL-E Duo) doesn't appear to work at all. The only charger that works now is the Ford OEM one that came with the car.

The GRIZZL-E has always been glitchy in terms of always triggering the "electrical system drain service required" error when plugged in...so there's something about using a third-party charger that drains the 12V. However, even though it caused that error, the GRIZZL-E would always still charge the HVB...so even with the 12V drain it would still function.

Not sure what it was about the recall update that caused the GRIZZL-E Duo to no longer work but it's super inconvenient, since I'll now have to alternate plugging in the charging station vs. Ford charger depending on what car I'm charging.

I'm wondering if Ford would let me roll back the recall update to restore charging function?
I'm convinced some of the Grizzl-E units are out of J1772 specification and causing charging issues. Ford is not really to blame if your EVSE is junk. Suggest buying a different EVSE like a ChargePoint or Wallbox.
 
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EchoRomeo

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I'm convinced some of the Grizzl-E units are out of J1772 specification and causing charging issues. Ford is not really to blame if your EVSE is junk. Suggest buying a different EVSE like a ChargePoint or Wallbox.
The GM OEM charger that came with my Bolt also isn't working with the Mach-E now. Not to mention, my Chevy Bolt has never had an issue charging on the Grizzl-E. The Grizzl-E Duo was an $800 charger and definitely isn't in the economy/junk category.

Sorry, Ford can't expect that customers are going to only use their equipment. I suspect they just haven't done their due diligence QA/QC'ing compatibility with charging equipment made by other manufacturers.
 

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Not sure what it was about the recall update that caused the GRIZZL-E Duo to no longer work but it's super inconvenient, since I'll now have to alternate plugging in the charging station vs. Ford charger depending on what car I'm charging.
I have a 2021 with nearly all the latest updates, and my Grizzl-e duo is solid. Mine is almost 3-yrs old at this point, and never had even a single blip in charging. The only part I haven't used much is the 2nd charge port. It's hanging over the other garage spot, but we currently only have 1 EV (future planning). Grizzl-e is not junk, you may want to reset the breaker and do some more testing before throwing down money for a different charger.
Rolling back a module update is also not recommended or probably even possible. If there was a bug introduced with an update, your best path would be *forward* once they've fixed the bug.
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