Rear drive axle replacement?

[rhougey]

While doing my tire rotation and inspections over the weekend, I found that the inside RR CV joint has been throwing grease (2021 RWD, 77,000 miles). A new OEM RR drive axle unit apparently has a list price of approx $231, and I can get it for around $165 it looks like. I’m thinking of maybe changing out the drive axle myself. I’m thinking it may not be a big job. Can anyone who has done it offer advice? Can anyone provide me with appropriate page(s) from the shop manual? Thank you in advance!

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[New2EV]

I think these are the sections you need.
I haven't replaced one, but I'm pretty sure mine needs replaced based on the clunk and vibration mine has. I'm still within 5yr/60k drive train warranty, so I'll let the dealer do it.

Just to be clear, these instructions are from an offline copy of the service manual. If Ford has updated the procedures at any point, these wouldn't get the updates.

 

[rhougey]

I think these are the sections you need.
I haven't replaced one, but I'm pretty sure mine needs replaced based on the clunk and vibration mine has. I'm still within 5yr/60k drive train warranty, so I'll let the dealer do it.

Just to be clear, these instructions are from an offline copy of the service manual. If Ford has updated the procedures at any point, these wouldn't get the updates.

THANK YOU, Jeff.
That is much appreciated!

 

[Briguy]

THANK YOU, Jeff.
That is much appreciated!

Did you end up tackling this project? I am having issues that I think are related to the right rear axle shaft:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...r-drive-unit-–-diagnostic-observations.54599/

 

[Teslaeata]

While doing my tire rotation and inspections over the weekend, I found that the inside RR CV joint has been throwing grease (2021 RWD, 77,000 miles). A new OEM RR drive axle unit apparently has a list price of approx $231, and I can get it for around $165 it looks like. I’m thinking of maybe changing out the drive axle myself. I’m thinking it may not be a big job. Can anyone who has done it offer advice? Can anyone provide me with appropriate page(s) from the shop manual? Thank you in advance!

Isn’t it just the rubber boot/cover if it’s throwing grease in which case if there’s no noise, free play or other undesirable condition surely the rubber boot could be replaced and tre-packed with correct grease at fraction of price?

 

[rhougey]

Did you end up tackling this project? I am having issues that I think are related to the right rear axle shaft:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/clunking-clicking-from-rear-drive-unit-–-diagnostic-observations.54599/

Hey Brian, my two most local dealerships quoted me $520-530 in labor and one of them was marking up the price of the part to over $300, while the other was pricing the part at list price. Both of them indicated that if I sourced the part myself, they would install it for the price of labor. So I have purchased th RR half shaft for $110 including shipping (OEM part), along with the single-use axle nut, and have them sitting here. I believe I will just have one of them do the job instead of doing it myself. I just am in and out of town so much and have other projects I’m working on I’m just not gonna get to it. I’m even having trouble finding time that I will be in town to take it in. While my boot has failed, the unit is not making noise yet, so we are still driving it, but not out of town.

 

[rhougey]

Isn’t it just the rubber boot/cover if it’s throwing grease in which case if there’s no noise, free play or other undesirable condition surely the rubber boot could be replaced and tre-packed with correct grease at fraction of price?

Yeah, that seems like an option, but the boot kit is almost as expensive as the whole half shaft, and I’m quite sure the labor would be higher, since the shaft would still need to be removed and replaced.

 

[Briguy]

Hey Brian, my two most local dealerships quoted me $520-530 in labor and one of them was marking up the price of the part to over $300, while the other was pricing the part at list price. Both of them indicated that if I sourced the part myself, they would install it for the price of labor. So I have purchased th RR half shaft for $110 including shipping (OEM part), along with the single-use axle nut, and have them sitting here. I believe I will just have one of them do the job instead of doing it myself. I just am in and out of town so much and have other projects I’m working on I’m just not gonna get to it. I’m even having trouble finding time that I will be in town to take it in. While my boot has failed, the unit is not making noise yet, so we are still driving it, but not out of town.

Where did you source the part from if I may ask? I replaced the rear hub assembly due to failed lug studs so I think I am capable of doing the work if its as easy as just replacing seals, and sliding the shaft out of the motor. I replaced axle shafts and seals on my daugther's Acura with no issue but my anxiety is the fact that this axle goes into an electric motor and I have not found any video how-to's online.

 

[rhougey]

Where did you source the part from if I may ask? I replaced the rear hub assembly due to failed lug studs so I think I am capable of doing the work if its as easy as just replacing seals, and sliding the shaft out of the motor. I replaced axle shafts and seals on my daugther's Acura with no issue but my anxiety is the fact that this axle goes into an electric motor and I have not found any video how-to's online.

I understand the slight hesitation. It doesn’t sound complicated, but a little bit of fear of the unknown with the electric drive unit.

I bought it from a Ford dealer in Florida I think it was. It was listed on eBay. The box had been opened, but it certainly looks brand spanking new with original packaging.

 

[Teslaeata]

I doubt the driveshaft fits into or onto the electric motor. The motor drives the transmission and the differential into which the drive shaft will fit in a conventional manner.

 

[Briguy]

I doubt the driveshaft fits into or onto the electric motor. The motor drives the transmission and the differential into which the drive shaft will fit in a conventional manner.

That is where I get nervous about doing it myself. I assume the axle simply slides out of the rear casing and I would replace a seal or two, then simply slide the new axle back in and put everything back together. Is it that easy (so to speak)? The documentation in this thread talks about referring to the drive assembly oil draining and filling procedure which also has me a little spooked.

 

[Teslaeata]

It’s that easy, if you have an idea about what you’re doing.

I don’t think It’s any different to doing one on any car with conventional independent suspension - any doubts and I’d let the professionals do it.

The oil thing alone shouldn’t phase you. Oil will run out when driveshaft pulls out the differential, just needs catching and transmission topping up through the level/filler bungplug when the jobs’s done wheel’s back on and cars on the ground again.

If I were doing it I’d jack up, make safe with axle stands and lay wheel on ground under sill at around midships for extra safety.

Wheel off, let suspension hang down, covers off under car, release calliper from its mounting and tie up out the way, remove disc/rotor - no special tools required so far - undo hub centre single use nut winding it sufficient to be able to just tap the nut but not end of drive shaft to loosen hub on driveshaft and no more, undo and lay aside on cable the wheel sensor, undo bolts which hold the hub carrier in place and lay aside after drawing it off hub carrier after loosening with the tap on the single use nut and its removal, then withdraw driveshaft which may require some kind of slide hammer or CAREFUL levering half shaft out of differential - this is where oil loss will occur.

I would’ve thought a new driveshaft should come with the seals or whatever is on the splines.

I’d expect the main oil seal in the differential would remain unaffected so should go again, if not already leaking.

Fitting back together is the reverse process, taking time and care applying thought should not mean the job is beyond the knowledgable DIYer.

There’s no need to go anywhere near HV electrics, steer clear of orange cabling or anything near where they attach, any doubt or you are unable to identify where HV is then steer clear of job - you only get one shock with EV electrics and quite literally you’re toast.

BE WARNED!

 

[Teslaeata]

Yeah, that seems like an option, but the boot kit is almost as expensive as the whole half shaft, and I’m quite sure the labor would be higher, since the shaft would still need to be removed and replaced.

Are you sure you priced up a boot kit, it’s only a rubber cover and two clips which should not be costly, and not a CV joint?

 

[rhougey]

Are you sure you priced up a boot kit, it’s only a rubber cover and two clips which should not be costly, and not a CV joint?

If I remember correctly, the kit was two boots and all associated clips, and was about $90.

 

[azerik]

Yeah, it looks like Ford is jumping on the disposable bandwagon. Same goes for the shocks. 'Here is all the things attached to the shock as well, that'll be 200% more money, thank you.'
Yes it does make it a quicker repair, but man some of these things are getting out of hand. Like the rear shocks being $160 ~ $200 each, when the shock it's self was $50.
The boot and clamps can be got fromSDHQ (Super Duty HQ) If you know the correct part # to cross ref.

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