Rotating tires at 21k miles

[SnBGC]

There are little arrowheads molded into the bottom of the rocker covers that show the suggested lifting points. This is where I placed the jack stands. That wide flat frame runs the full length and is pretty strong. The channel that is inboard of the perimeter chassis frame is part of the battery pack so you want to try and avoid lifting from that point if possible. I have a little portion of my jack pad on that channel but it doesn't really have much pressure on it. All the weight is on those pucks that you see in the photo.

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[SnBGC]

I ordered some taller pucks for next time I need to lift the car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742MG8J...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[HuntingPudel]

Thanks for posting. I'm due for rotation soon too at 9K miles, was just thinking how best to lift the MME. I'm definitely buying that HF jack cross beam. It will make it much easier to work on this (or any other) car.

One question. IIRC the lug nuts torque spec on the MME is 150lbs, correct? I have the cheap HF torque wrench which maxes at 150lbs. Is it advisable to use it at its max rating, or time to invest in a better one?


You will probably want to lube the brakes on the MME after salty winter driving. The MME, if I don't drive the car after a car wash, it rusts right away and the front brakes makes a clunking noise. I'm aware of the TSB of possibly faulty brake pads from the factory, not sure if that alone will address it.

You *can* use a torque wrench at the edge of its scale. Generally, they are not as accurate at the lowest or highest ends of their scale as they are near the middle, but you really do not know this unless you have a recent certificate of calibration. My Proto that ends at 150 is +2 lbs/ft at 150. I’m bringing my Proto that goes to 300 with me to the dealer mostly because it’s longer and will be easier to use at 150.

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

Safety First!

Great write up, much appreciated. It looks like you did everything safe. It is nice to see that since too many people take chance and use wood blocks instead of jack stands, under rated jacks and do not chock the tires.

 

[GoGoGadgetMachE]

My guess is they were tightened correctly at the factory but when they get to the dealership the wheels come off

edited to make this an evergreen purchase experience statement there

 

[BMT1071]

These pinch weld lifting pucks are useful. These allow me to get right where I need to be to lift the car. There is a very strong wide flat alum frame member where they want you to lift from. Some people might try placing the jack at the channel that surrounds the battery pack. That looks pretty strong too but not where the manual says to lift so try and avoid using that. These pucks keep your jack on the wide frame vs the channel frame.

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Rubbe...ocphy=9030034&hvtargid=pla-568805582093&psc=1

Yes. 150 lbs is the spec. I tightened mine to 145 ft lbs. I think you are okay with the HF unit set to 140 or 145. When I took my wheels off, it only took about 75 ft lbs to break the lugs free. I don't know if the torque setting works the same when loosening as when tightening but they didn't really feel tight enough.

My guess is they were tightened correctly at the factory but when they get to the dealership the wheels come off so they can remove a plastic rotor shield prior to customer delivery. In my case, when they put the wheels back on they didn't torque them to spec.

Do you recall what you paid for the cross beam? Looks like they start at $85 on Amazon. ?

 

[MailGuy]

That's one of the nice things about living in the desert. ??

Just got back from a weekend in the valley of the sun. So jealous of your roads!! Didn’t see a single MME though ?.

 

[BMT1071]

Just got back from a weekend in the valley of the sun. So jealous of your roads!! Didn’t see a single MME though ?.

Not sure how popular they are here. We had a meet up in September and 5 of us attended.

 

[Scooby24]

I ordered some taller pucks for next time I need to lift the car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742MG8J...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

THANK YOU for sharing this...I was about to ask as the 1.3" pucks looked a little short.

Do you think the Jack Bar is necessary to avoid flex of the pack or is the frame stable enough to use a single jack and hit each jack point individually to get the car in the air?

 

[SnBGC]

Do you recall what you paid for the cross beam? Looks like they start at $85 on Amazon. ?

It was around $50 I think. I bought the one that fits my particular floor jack. It had a huge threaded pin that secures the bar to the jack so it doesn't fall off. I have a heavy duty floor jack too, but the lifting bar doesn't fit it so that is why I used the low profile jack. On that jack, the swivel pad unbolts and the lifting bar bolts into the same spot.

https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-64051.html

 

[SnBGC]

Just got back from a weekend in the valley of the sun. So jealous of your roads!! Didn’t see a single MME though ?.

One benefit of mild winters.....no ice to freeze and destroy the roads.

They might melt though....but still smooth.

 

[SnBGC]

THANK YOU for sharing this...I was about to ask as the 1.3" pucks looked a little short.

Do you think the Jack Bar is necessary to avoid flex of the pack or is the frame stable enough to use a single jack and hit each jack point individually to get the car in the air?

Not necessary. I have lifted at one of the front corners and it is so stiff that both wheels come off the ground. I did pucker up a bit because I was nervous the panoramic glass roof would fracture. I might just be paranoid though. Since I had the lifting bar anyway then I felt much better doing it that way.

 

[MachTee]

These pinch weld lifting pucks are useful. These allow me to get right where I need to be to lift the car. There is a very strong wide flat alum frame member where they want you to lift from. Some people might try placing the jack at the channel that surrounds the battery pack. That looks pretty strong too but not where the manual says to lift so try and avoid using that. These pucks keep your jack on the wide frame vs the channel frame.

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Rubbe...ocphy=9030034&hvtargid=pla-568805582093&psc=1

Yes. 150 lbs is the spec. I tightened mine to 145 ft lbs. I think you are okay with the HF unit set to 140 or 145. When I took my wheels off, it only took about 75 ft lbs to break the lugs free. I don't know if the torque setting works the same when loosening as when tightening but they didn't really feel tight enough.

My guess is they were tightened correctly at the factory but when they get to the dealership the wheels come off so they can remove a plastic rotor shield prior to customer delivery. In my case, when they put the wheels back on they didn't torque them to spec.

I will definitely order those pucks and for sure not lift it off the battery rail. Thank you.

You *can* use a torque wrench at the edge of its scale. Generally, they are not as accurate at the lowest or highest ends of their scale as they are near the middle, but you really do not know this unless you have a recent certificate of calibration. My Proto that ends at 150 is +2 lbs/ft at 150. I’m bringing my Proto that goes to 300 with me to the dealer mostly because it’s longer and will be easier to use at 150.

Thanks for confirming, save myself some $$$. I'll just give it a hair more after it clicks at 150lbs.

Just bought the jack cross beam and lift pucks. I should have bought that cross beam much earlier, made life much easier. I even covered the jack stands with some old gloves as @SnBGC showed, saved me a few bucks from buying jack stand covers. All lug nuts came off with relative ease. They definitely didn't feel like they were torqued to 150lbs And my cheap HF torque wrench is definitely at the limit at 150lbs - it broke loose on one nut. I thought it broke. I dialed it back to 148lbs. Should be fine, going by how loose they felt from the factory (or dealer).

 

[delacruz.c5d]

Separate accessory item. Yes. HF jack. Barely qas able to lift the car. The Mach-E is one heavy vehicle!

I was about to say, you must have one hell of a jack to get one of these almost 5K# girls off the ground. Eek gads. I've done my share of car work, but not with something in this weight category. LIFT PLEASE!

 

[HuntingPudel]

I was about to say, you must have one hell of a jack to get one of these almost 5K# girls off the ground. Eek gads. I've done my share of car work, but not with something in this weight category. LIFT PLEASE!

My 1969 Cadillac was 5300 pounds dry, most of it on the front (factory screw-up, double-wall box frame from a convertible on a coupe). My old jack (purchased in 1980) had no problem with it. I recently bought a jack with a higher rating, but I do not think my older jack would have issue. What’s your current jack rated at?

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