SSM 49784 - Various Phone-As-A-Key Concerns

Illinibird

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The only reason we've had to rely on a dealer or locksmith to add a new fob is because the "self service" procedure requires you to already have 2 fobs paired to the car. That's not an option since the MME only comes with one fob. But once you have 2, you should be able to add a 3rd and 4th yourself.
What is the “self service” procedure? How would you go about programming one? Is it in the manual about making a “My Key?”
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For those of you using Android, you can give this a shot.

I've had my car close to a month and I've been testing/using PAAK exclusively. I've had to make a couple adjustments to get it to be reliable for me. First, I had to make sure that the app was never put to sleep by Android. Next, I started closing the app when I'm not using it, more on that later. These two steps have been huge in using PAAK and now, it works fine.

Since making the adjustments, I've had one issue while testing/using PAAK. Sometimes it drops the BT connection and says "Key Not Found". This has happened a few times after I've started the car. I look down and I have a blue screen asking me if I'm driving. I've clicked no, and the message goes away. I'm wondering if it's a setting I need to adjust in the app.

The reason I cut the app off when I'm not using it or need it, I found that it's often trying to connect to the vehicle. What I've found that is when I'm away from the car for an extended amount of time and it can't connect, it was causes the app to eventually crash. Restarting the app doesn't resolve the crash so, I've had to restart my phone to clear up the issue. Since, I've started closing the app, I haven't had this issue.

NOTE: I only close the app when I'm going to be away from the car for an extended period of time. I do this when I'm at work and the car is out in the parking lot or I'm home for the evening or weekends. I NEVER do this when I'm running errands, like going into a store, restaurant or something like that.

Again, If you're using Android give these two adjustments a shot. I hope this helps someone. It's truly a great feature to use.
 

jnthn98

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For those of you using Android, you can give this a shot.

I've had my car close to a month and I've been testing/using PAAK exclusively. I've had to make a couple adjustments to get it to be reliable for me. First, I had to make sure that the app was never put to sleep by Android. Next, I started closing the app when I'm not using it, more on that later. These two steps have been huge in using PAAK and now, it works fine.

Since making the adjustments, I've had one issue while testing/using PAAK. Sometimes it drops the BT connection and says "Key Not Found". This has happened a few times after I've started the car. I look down and I have a blue screen asking me if I'm driving. I've clicked no, and the message goes away. I'm wondering if it's a setting I need to adjust in the app.

The reason I cut the app off when I'm not using it or need it, I found that it's often trying to connect to the vehicle. What I've found that is when I'm away from the car for an extended amount of time and it can't connect, it was causes the app to eventually crash. Restarting the app doesn't resolve the crash so, I've had to restart my phone to clear up the issue. Since, I've started closing the app, I haven't had this issue.

NOTE: I only close the app when I'm going to be away from the car for an extended period of time. I do this when I'm at work and the car is out in the parking lot or I'm home for the evening or weekends. I NEVER do this when I'm running errands, like going into a store, restaurant or something like that.

Again, If you're using Android give these two adjustments a shot. I hope this helps someone. It's truly a great feature to use.
Thanks for the suggestion. I gave FordPass app all the permissions and remove the battery optimization so that it doesn't get optimized out in the background, but still have the issue. I will try your suggestion of closing the app when i am not using the car for a while. Android has some many variations (between versions and manufacturers) that I wonder if it is phone model dependent (although my phone meets Ford's Android requirement/specs).
 

Illinibird

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I made a poor mans Faraday bag and wrapped the FOB in aluminum foil. Worked great. However, since doing that I’ve tried to use my phone exclusively and then it happened again. Phone and car got unpaired both the phone and the media player in the phone. Funny thing is that when I switch to Apple Car Play the phone is connected to it and also to the Apple Music player. After a few minutes where I was fooling around trying to connect my phone and music player I got angry at myself for letting Ford mess with my car as things were worse. I left the car for about a half hour to cool off. When I returned, the iPhone was re-connected as well as the media player of the iPhone. When I switched to Car Play that was working as well. I was happy again! Then after dinner I went inside the car with just my iPhone to test PaaK and wouldn’t you know it, “Key Not Detected” and then enter code. I entered my code and followed the directions and started the car. So I know the backup code worked but my PaaK wasn’t working after what I thought was an update to the RFA at my Ford dealer to make things better for using PaaK. Now things are worse. So I will continue to bring my FOB with me along with my iPhone and use Apple Car Play because the connection never drops when using this interface. PaaK is still unreliable as far as I am concerned and the update didn’t help the problem with pairing in my car in having PaaK start the car, etc. I still don’t trust it and am glad I bought an extra FOB for my wife. She has zero understanding about the electronics in the car and just expects the car to be reliable. When we give up the Fusion in a couple months and she is forced to drive the Mach E I hope I have any bugs worked out so she does have a reliable car.
Since posting this, the PaaK began working by itself as did the Bluetooth connected media player so I'm once again going to try using it by itself. I AM keeping the FOB and taking it along in a Farady bag.
 


Illinibird

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Since posting this, the PaaK began working by itself as did the Bluetooth connected media player so I'm once again going to try using it by itself. I AM keeping the FOB and taking it along in a Farady bag.
Today, my iPhone once again began to lose pairing with the car for the phone as well as the media player. I had my FOB wrapped with aluminum foil so only the iPhone was interacting with the car. I kind of feel like I'm back to square one on this issue and don't know what else I can do. SSM 49784 didn't eliminate the pairing problem entirely all of the time. I don't know if any of the other issues were addressed or not. PS - I did buy a Faraday bag for the FOB so I don't have a wad of aluminum foil in my pocket. So far, no "Key Not Detected error messages delivered. I'll keep trying the car with my iPhone but I'll have the FOB with me but in the bag just in case I have to use it.
 
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Yesterday for 5 minutes I couldn't get the my Samsung note 10 plus to see my car no key detected, wouldn't start etc.. I had to reboot my phone to get it work. I'm almost to the point where I'd rather carry around the huge remote just so I know it'll work
 

Illinibird

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One other thing I noticed if I hadn’t reported about it before is that my iPhone works much better if I use it with Apple Car Play. It doesn’t unpair and the Apple media player works better too. Doesn’t Apple Car Play rely on a conventional Bluetooth connection to work too? When using Car Play the “cards” below Car Player say the iPhone is unavailable and the same with the Bluetooth media player. The result is I will begin using Car Play all the time because the interface seems much more stable. What is the difference that causes Car Play to be a better (Bluetooth) connection? Does Car Play use a different protocol to connect. Sorry if this has been answered before but I just don’t remember an explanation about how Apple Car Play works. I still have received the “No key detected” message once or twice but I can remedy that easily with my FOB taken out of the Farady bag or use my startup code. For the present, I’m keeping the FOB with me in the Faraday bag but if reliability continues with few instances of “No key detected” error message, I will begin leaving the FOB at home and rely on The starting code as backup if I need it.
 

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One other thing I noticed if I hadn’t reported about it before is that my iPhone works much better if I use it with Apple Car Play. It doesn’t unpair and the Apple media player works better too. Doesn’t Apple Car Play rely on a conventional Bluetooth connection to work too? When using Car Play the “cards” below Car Player say the iPhone is unavailable and the same with the Bluetooth media player. The result is I will begin using Car Play all the time because the interface seems much more stable. What is the difference that causes Car Play to be a better (Bluetooth) connection? Does Car Play use a different protocol to connect. Sorry if this has been answered before but I just don’t remember an explanation about how Apple Car Play works. I still have received the “No key detected” message once or twice but I can remedy that easily with my FOB taken out of the Farady bag or use my startup code. For the present, I’m keeping the FOB with me in the Faraday bag but if reliability continues with few instances of “No key detected” error message, I will begin leaving the FOB at home and rely on The starting code as backup if I need it.
CarPlay negotiates launching of itself via Bluetooth but then uses wifi. See earlier reply:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...eded-and-or-key-not-detected.5268/post-174106
 

Illinibird

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CarPlay negotiates launching of itself via Bluetooth but then uses wifi. See earlier reply:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...eded-and-or-key-not-detected.5268/post-174106
I knew I had heard this before about using Wi-Fi but I didn't get it at the time. Do you have a source which explains this? Wi-Fi therefore seems like a better way to connect then Bluetooth. They both use radio frequencies don't they. I'm out of my league here but want to understand this. My brother is an electrical engineer and used to design stuff for the B1 stealth bomber and got a patent from Motorola for something he developed so I hope he knows the answer and can explain this to me in layman's terms.
 

Illinibird

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I knew I had heard this before about using Wi-Fi but I didn't get it at the time. Do you have a source which explains this? Wi-Fi therefore seems like a better way to connect then Bluetooth. They both use radio frequencies don't they. I'm out of my league here but want to understand this. My brother is an electrical engineer and used to design stuff for the B1 stealth bomber and got a patent from Motorola for something he developed so I hope he knows the answer and can explain this to me in layman's terms.
I queried Car Play and got some answers. Like you said Bluetooth is used to make initial connection. Then it hands this off to Wi-Fi which can handle a lot more data then Bluetooth so CarPlay shuts Bluetooth off. From there the connection is all Wi-Fi and sound reproduction is superior to Bluetooth. Wi-Fi connection to iPhone for calling and/or texting is superior to Bluetooth as well ??This explains the better performance with Car Play. That's about as close to getting an answer as I can at this point.
 

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For those of you using Android, you can give this a shot.
....snip... when I'm away from the car for an extended amount of time and it can't connect, it was causes the app to eventually crash. Restarting the app doesn't resolve the crash so, I've had to restart my phone to clear up the issue. Since, I've started closing the app, I haven't had this issue.
so.... exactly how do YOU close the App?

Do you click app icon - info - force stop ?
or, some other way?

It is unclear to me how stopping the FordPass app would affect PAAK proximity sensing.

I had some luck turning off Bluetooth (not fordPass) on the phone, and then turning it back on as I was approaching car intending to drive. But that has not been reliable lately. The last week or so, I ALWAYS get 'no key detected', and have to use my startCode or FordPass 'start' button
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