Billyk24

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(Names and other details have been redacted to keep my warranty intact ;).)

In addition to our Mach-E, we currently own an Itasca Navion class C motor home. We’ve enjoyed using the RV, however the price of diesel has basically doubled in the last 6 months, so we were tossing around the idea of trading down for a small travel trailer that would be towable with the Mach-e. Yes, I’m aware the vehicle is not “rated” in the US, so before purchasing a trailer we wanted to do a “test run” to check the effect that towing has on range and also to see if a trailer could be safely towed. I grew up on a farm towing horse trailers and boats with a variety of vehicles, tow rated and otherwise, so I’ve got a good feel for what a safe and unsafe towing setup looks and feels like.

For this experiment, I rented an 8x12 u-haul trailer and loaded it up to 2,500 lbs, which is the dry weight of the trailer we are looking at getting (r-pod 171). We live in the Seattle area and do a lot of camping on the east side of the state. I wanted to see if the Mach would make it over Stevens Pass and then on to Leavenworth, the closest EA charging station on that side of the pass. This would
be a distance of 113 miles with an elevation gain of approximately 4,000 feet. Since the travel trailer would be taller than the u-haul, and slightly heavier when loaded, about 3,000 lbs, in my mind a successful test would end with at least a 25% charge remaining as a cushion.
For those of you that care, the outside temperature at start location was 88 degrees, outside temp at destination was 95 degrees. I was running the A/C entire time. My vehicle is a Premuim 4x. Vehicle was in “whisper mode” to minimize strain on the drivetrain. SOC at departure was 98%. I’m running the Draw-Tite 76460 class 3 hitch with a plug and play 4 pin wiring kit from trailerjacks.com. I plan on upgrading to a 7 pin connector with brake controller.

Observations: You definitely notice the trailer is there, due to the fact that the Mach-e is so quiet every noise the trailer makes is noticeable. The Mach has much less “bounce” and sway than other vehicles I’ve towed with, probably due to the weight and low center of gravity of the batteries. There was no noticeable sway, and the trailer tracked well, even without a distribution hitch. Ending SOC was 30%, more than what I was expecting. We averaged 1.9 mi/kWh (the 3.0 shown in the photo isn’t right). We charged at the EA station in Leavenworth for about 30 minutes to a SOC of 81% and made it back home no problem. We did have to take up three parking spaces on the back side of the charging station, so charging with a trailer will require some advance planning or removing the trailer if the charging station is in a tighter spot or busy lot. If you’re going to a campground with a 50 amp hookup then this won’t be an issue.

Conclusion: After making this trip, I’m confident that the Mach-e would make an excellent tow vehicle for a small (under 3k lbs) travel trailer for distances of 120-150 miles between charges. We plan to move forward with the purchase of the R-pod and will update you all with a “part two” as we proceed!
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Thanks for the post. I am joining the club with a mere 900lb enclosed snowmobile trailer plus snowmobile weight. Unlikely to tow more than 46 miles one way. Model Y i initially had no towing label.
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Billyk24

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Its unlikely the Mach E will ever be rated to tow much, not unless it got a major tire and brake upgrade. For example an ICE Honda Accord is rated to tow around 1,000lbs, and the car alone weighs 1,300lbs less than a Mach E.

The sheer weight of the Mach E coupled with tire restrictions makes towing any significant weight a none starter.
The famous Toyota Rav4 hybrid is rated to tow 1700 lbs. The Lincoln Corsair phev is rated to tow 2500lbs. The Rav4 phev is rated to tow 3000lbs. All these vehicles use stock tires and brakes. Need brake controller on trailer to help
 

Ron davis

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But how does the existence of a trailer hitch prove that the car had ever towed a trailer? There are other uses for a hitch.
Old thread but if your towing a trailer then you have to have the light harness to be legal. Once you install it and use it the car knows and a dealership can find out. Not worth it to me just saying.
 

dtbaker61

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Old thread but if your towing a trailer then you have to have the light harness to be legal. Once you install it and use it the car knows and a dealership can find out. Not worth it to me just saying.
a. the car/ford/dealership won't 'know' if you tap existing tail-light wires to run a simple 4 or 7 wire plug for trailer lights.

b. ford won't care unless you damage the drivetrain/battery in some way while pulling a trailer and they can prove that towing caused the damage so they can disallow warranty coverage of the damage.
 

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a. the car/ford/dealership won't 'know' if you tap existing tail-light wires to run a simple 4 or 7 wire plug for trailer lights.

b. ford won't care unless you damage the drivetrain/battery in some way while pulling a trailer and they can prove that towing caused the damage so they can disallow warranty coverage of the damage.
You were wondering how they would know. That's how the wiring harness. Now when something goes wrong you could do something shady like take the car apart and disconnect it from the battery and lights. But a friend of mine a Ford tech. Told me through the computer they can tell if they really wanted to.
As far as the warranty goes its up to the dealership how they handle it. I've seen people get screwed over many times by warranty claims. They have every right to deny your claim. You call ford and they will tell you that.
Sure you can take them to court and spend thousands but you probably won't get anything out of it. All that with the liability issues just not worth it to me just saying.
 


Rex

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There is a European kit from Ford for fitting a tow bar + electrics.
if you could get that and have it fitted, the Ford fitting instructions are available on this forum somewhere, then it would be difficult for Ford to say you have invalidated the warranty.
I have one fitted to mine and when I replace the Mach E my new one will have the Ford tow bar fitted!
 

Jerrytball

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Those are some interesting videos. The guy going from Washington to Minnesota four times, holy smokes, so I guess you can tow a trailer. I’m definitely not gonna look into a trailer hitch at all, but it’s very interesting.
 

Billyk24

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You were wondering how they would know. That's how the wiring harness. Now when something goes wrong you could do something shady like take the car apart and disconnect it from the battery and lights. But a friend of mine a Ford tech. Told me through the computer they can tell if they really wanted to.
As far as the warranty goes its up to the dealership how they handle it. I've seen people get screwed over many times by warranty claims. They have every right to deny your claim. You call ford and they will tell you that.
Sure you can take them to court and spend thousands but you probably won't get anything out of it. All that with the liability issues just not worth it to me just saying.
There is a European kit from Ford for fitting a tow bar + electrics.
if you could get that and have it fitted, the Ford fitting instructions are available on this forum somewhere, then it would be difficult for Ford to say you have invalidated the warranty.
I have one fitted to mine and when I replace the Mach E my new one will have the Ford tow bar fitted!
Except that Ford Oem tow European equipment isnt shipping directly to USA retail customers.
 

dtbaker61

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Except that Ford Oem tow European equipment isnt shipping directly to USA retail customers.

The point (to me) is that the vehicle is mechanically the same... the tow capabilities *should* be the same. If you want to tow, get one of the several US towbars available, install it, and be happy using your SUV as an actual 'Utility Vehicle'.

I use my Torklift hitch receiver *mostly* for my bike rack, and to provide rear towhook points for rescue if I plant the front end in a snowdrift.
 

NetDoc

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Does anyone have a link to the electrics? I can find a universal, but I would rather something more plug and play. I just need to haul trash to the collection site, some kayaks, and maybe a bit of steel from time to time.
 

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21st Century Pony

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FYI - for my camper trailer with electric brakes, I use the Curt Echo Bluetooth plug & play brake controller. It works very well. Moreover, the Curt Echo does not need extra wiring because it plugs into the 7-Way receptacle and modulates the power line used for electric brakes within the 7-Way receptacle.

Of course, your car has to have an electric brake power line in place or the trailer's electric brakes, if any are present, won't work. Per a previous link to my trailer camping adventures (above), I use the Euro Ford harness which does include this power line... I tapped into it to fully wire my 7-Way receptacle.

Additionally, the Curt Echo works via Bluetooth with / thru a smart phone, which we all have these days. Should the Bluetooth connection between the phone and the Curt Echo break, the Echo keeps its last setting until it is unplugged or until the Bluetooth connection is restored.

I've used the Curt Echo now for almost 2,500+ miles of trailering, and I like it and recommend it.

An additional benefit is that one can move this Curt Echo brake controller between cars as desired, without rewiring. When a friend plans to borrow my camper trailer, I just include the Curt Echo.
 

dtbaker61

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