Yes, aluminum and copper have to be properly sized. In our state aluminum also requires a corrosion inhibitor paste. I think the problem is older homes with a mix of a wiring and manufactured homes that had all aluminum wiring but no antioxidant paste and in particular on the feeder line into the main panel. The code requirement was (back in 80’s) that all main panel feeder connects if aluminum require antioxidant paste.
...what is the actual charge rate ?I installed a Primecom.Tech 50amp charger, and you can select 12-50amp range. Had it since May 2021 works flawlessly. View attachment 46207 View attachment 46207
Your reply got me a bit concerned. This is 8/3 UF-B in free air. Even thought the insulator is seemingly rated at 90 C, I guess 60 C must be used for ampacity calculations. Most charts show this as 40 amps intermittent, 32 amps continuous. More Google-foo shows that the free air ampacity of 8/3 UF-B is 60 amps, so I should be just fine replacing the 40-amp breaker with a 50-amp breaker, if there is a need. That would allow for a safe continuous rating of 40 amps for the EVSE.
A couple of points:
For two years I had exactly the same set up you are doing, then in October I had the ChargePoint Home Flex installed. The electrician charged me $100 to remove the 14-50 outlet and connect its wires to the Home Flex (you have to hardwire the EVSE for 50 amp charging--can't use the 14-50 plug). Once hardwired, it is easy to set up the Home Flex for various amp levels, 50 being the highest.
Thanks for the feedback. Good point about the voltage drop. It only mattered to me as an indicator of how much thermal power the cable is absorbing. I am probably misreading the codes. Table 310.15(B)(17) seems to imply that 8/3 UF-B in free air is safe up to 60 amps intermittently, which is derated to 48 amps continuous load. Am I reading that correctly?
That table is for a single conductor (one wire) in free air. UF is a cable assembly, not a single conductor.
I have the same juicebox - 40A capable 240 volt on a 14-50. The app gives the option to set the charge rate and whether it is single.phase.or three phase. I am assuming I have a single phase, as most.would at home, unless you.went out of the way to purchase and upgraded cable and have a 48A system. I want to set the charge rate to the max the juicebox and my wiring can handle. On a single phase, do you know if that would be 7.2 kWh or 9.6 kWh?
What is your wire size between the breaker and the JB. If it is #6 AWG then your are good for the 40 amps/9.6 kwh. My setup is 50 amp breaker, #6 AWG wire, NEMA 14-50 plug, and the JB 40. The JB 40 works great for 16 months and the app records your kwh. Mine usually charges at 39.5 amps.
And I also learned what the other AWGs are on the charging cable itself - the wires inside to transfer info. The 8AWG (first.in that long string) is the wire driving the bus for electricity to the battery.
Just a note that there have been a number of posts here that the Ford Mobile Charged (FMC) functions just fine for a while, but seems to error out after a number of repeated L2 charging events. The FMC is physically much smaller than most other 32A EVSEs. Conjecture is that after time the FMC damages itself internally because it isn’t able to dissipate enough heat. This damage happens slowly over time. It seems just fine for occasional use. ??
