FORScan mods - already done, and ones I want to get done.

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Future MME models might have the capability, but our current models lack the hardware needed. The only option we have is to use the LVB to run an inverter. Lots of people have rigged up their cars to do that easily, but the most you will get out is 1500-2000 Watts. That is more than sufficient for camping and even short power outages, but it is not as easy to use as a vehicle to home solution is. If you really want that capability, you will have to get another vehicle.
I don't see how we could be missing the hardware unless you are thinking about an onboard high power inverter. What I am referring to is an external high power inverter that operates from the high voltage battery. The MME can connect the battery to the CCS for DC fast charging. It just needs to make the same connection for an external inverter. The Home Integration System for the Lightning costs about $4,000. That is because it uses an external inverter.
 

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I don't see how we could be missing the hardware unless you are thinking about an onboard high power inverter. What I am referring to is an external high power inverter that operates from the high voltage battery. The MME can connect the battery to the CCS for DC fast charging. It just needs to make the same connection for an external inverter. ...
I would expect the MME has safeguards in place to make sure that current only flows in one direction FROM the CCS port TO the HV battery and it prevents any situation trying to extract current in reverse.
So, it's not so much "missing" hardware as the MME hardware just wasn't designed for the purpose of powering an external inverter with the HVB.
 

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I don't see how we could be missing the hardware unless you are thinking about an onboard high power inverter. What I am referring to is an external high power inverter that operates from the high voltage battery. The MME can connect the battery to the CCS for DC fast charging. It just needs to make the same connection for an external inverter. The Home Integration System for the Lightning costs about $4,000. That is because it uses an external inverter.
Ford has implied that it’s not impossible. That being said, I highly doubt they’ll bring it to existing MMEs.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...-insideevs-tom-and-domenick.14476/post-348332
 

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I don't see how we could be missing the hardware unless you are thinking about an onboard high power inverter. What I am referring to is an external high power inverter that operates from the high voltage battery. The MME can connect the battery to the CCS for DC fast charging. It just needs to make the same connection for an external inverter. The Home Integration System for the Lightning costs about $4,000. That is because it uses an external inverter.
I was thinking about an on-board inverter, like the one Lucid uses to provide AC power from the battery. I guess connecting directly to the HVB is possible, but at a minimum I would think the MME would need proper software to manage the condition of the battery when being used like that.

I doubt you could just force the contactors closed and tap into the battery, and not have bad things happen because the BMS is not designed for that use case. Just conjecture, but not something I would want to play around with.

Even so, are there any diodes in between the CCS plug and the battery that will prevent DC current from flowing the wrong way? Or are you proposing bypassing all of the hardware and connecting directly to the battery?

That just sounds super dangerous to me, especially when batteries can overheat, catch on fire and burn for hours. Probably even an explosion is possible, like a Samsung phone. Imagine that happening in your garage...
 


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Can you describe the procedure to do this mod, please?
Adding a Frost Warning snowflake on the U.S. MMEs:

I recovered my notes, and moreover, on my current multi-state road trip I ran into mid-30 degree weather at night in Ohio and Kentucky and behold! the Frost Warning snowflake showed up at about 39 degrees F.

I can therefore vouch that my mid-August Forscan mod does work, and I also recovered my notes on how to do it.

Attached is a night pic of how the frost snowflake looks and where it shows up on the digital dashboard.


How to:
1. Log into your Forscan. BTW - there is a new version out, which showed up on 19 October 2022. It has more MME stuff in it.
2. Scan your modules.
3. Look for the IPC ASBUILT line. It should be the second line from the very bottom.
4. Run the script for this line to read the module addresses.
5. Look at the 2d line. It should read [720-01-02] xxxx xXxx [restore] [write]. NOTE what shows in the large X spot - write it down somewhere in case you will want to / need to reverse your steps.
6. CHANGE the large X (the 2d X in the 2d block) to the letter "A".
7. WRITE the change. Cycle the ignition. You're done.

NOTE: now that I gave y'all the harder version, which I did back this August, I'll admit that in the newest Forscan there is a much easier way.

1. Steps 1 and 2 are the same.
3. Look for the IPC line, just below the IPC ASBUILT line in the scanned modules log. It should be the very last line.
4. Run the script for this last line (IPC). A plethora of settings, in English, will pop up... literally several screen pages.
--- BE VERY CAREFUL HERE --- a lot of these settings apply to other models of Ford cars, not the MME.
5. Find the "Frost Indicator" line, or something very similar... I don't remember the exact wording but once you see it, it'll be obvious. It's about midway in the long settings list.
6. Run this line - you'll get a DISABLED / ENABLED dialog box. Click ENABLED. click the check under it, cycle the ignition and you're done.

I will give this warning again: in the latest version of Forscan, I strongly suggest to --- BE VERY CAREFUL and meticulous --- and do not change the various settings in the English versions of the IPC or APIM script lines without A). 1st saving the current settings, and B). applying thoughtful intentionality. Many, many settings are available here and it might saddle the over-enthusiastic settings changers with unforeseen consequences, up to and including partly bricking the car. I say this from a painful experience with my Ford Fusion.

Awesome I can’t wait to see how it goes. Please do a detailed write up if you get it to work.
Ford Mustang Mach-E FORScan mods - already done, and ones I want to get done. Frost Warning telltale - close-u
 
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Didn’t 2022s come from the factory with the frost warning enabled?
My 2022 Premium AWD ER, manufactured in March 2022, did not.
 

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Didn’t 2022s come from the factory with the frost warning enabled?
Yes. It has to be less than 39ºF before it shows up. Mine came enabled from the factory, Jan build. I'd rather turn it off because it will be on for months at a time here.
 
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Yes. It has to be less than 39ºF before it shows up. Mine came enabled from the factory, Jan build. I'd rather turn it off because it will be on for months at a time here.
My Premium trim had it turned off. Maybe the GT comes with it turned on?
 
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My Premium trim had it turned off. Maybe the GT comes with it turned on?
OK I just read your profile - so we have very similar trim models. Maybe Ford turns these frost warnings on for models sold in cold regions, just like the regional distribution of gasoline engine block warmers of yore?

If this regional hypothesis is true, it would be an inartful Ford decision IMHO. After all, cars never travel out of their regions, take their owners skiing in the mountains, get re-sold, etc, right?
 

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Maybe Ford turns these frost warnings on for models sold in cold regions, just like the regional distribution of gasoline engine block warmers of yore?
I highly doubt it‘s regional, but if it was, it would make more sense to be the other way around. Warm regions are the ones that need to be warned when it’s cold. Those of us in cold regions don’t need to be warned every day all winter long.

Is it possible that your car just hasn’t seen 39 degrees until now?
 
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I’m trying to get the rear fog light active too. So looks like we have the same reverse light as the Europeans do. If you look closely, it is separated into three sections. In Europe, the middle section has the red fog light. Not sure if it’s a whole different assembly with a red led light built in or do we still use incandescent bulbs. We would also need a euro spec light switch with a fog button.
So I sourced the Euro rear fog light as well as the Euro light control switch for the cabin dashboard.

Progress so far:

1. The Euro backup light does contain separate LED circuits for the rear fog light. In comparison, the U.S. backup light has six LEDs, but seven (!!) LED reflector scallops... the central reflector scallop is empty. The Euro backup light has seven LEDs in the same seven LED reflective scallops. Conclusion - the central LED, missing in our US backup lights, must be the red rear fog light. These LEDs are even labeled, 1 thru 7 (1 thru 6 on the U.S. backup light). Neither light has any incandescent bulbs.

2. The Euro light has three pins where the U.S. backup light has two pins, although it has space for a missing third pin. The U.S. wiring harness quick-disconnect for the rear backup light also (of course) has only two female pin receivers. Moreover, the quick-disconnect and the backup lights have keyways to help mate the parts... the Euro backup light keyway does not correspond to the U.S. wiring harness connector keyway.

3. I have pinout diagrams for the Euro backup light, the U.S. backup light, the U.S. BCM and also for the U.S. Ford Fusion BCM where we (I and others) have managed to install and energize Euro rear fog lights. One of these diagrams was kindly provided by fellow MME Forum member su-ch+mache. The next step is to carefully compare the diagrams while soothing classical music is softly playing in the background and I cannot hear Sonny Boy's Battlefield 2042 video game at full TV volume hehe.

4. Today, I saw that in the newest Forscan's APIM and IPS modules there are rear fog light enable / disable settings available for resetting functions and dashboard telltales once the wires are appropriately run.

Obviously, there are connecting wires that are missing... once we decode the circuits, running wires between pins for a test will be the next step.

Hope this is helpful, at least in theory... TBC.
 
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I highly doubt it‘s regional, but if it was, it would make more sense to be the other way around. Warm regions are the ones that need to be warned when it’s cold. Those of us in cold regions don’t need to be warned every day all winter long.

Is it possible that your car just hasn’t seen 39 degrees until now?
I know what I changed in the IPC ASBUILT line and what was in the IPC ASBUILT line before the change. As I wrote above back in August, my freezer isn't big enough to put the MME in for the night ;-) Therefore, on the strength of the IPC ASBUILT line change, I assume that my Premium did not have the snowflake turned on... this corresponds to our family history of our two Fusions, FY 2013 and FY 2015, neither of which had the snowflake until we turned that function on.

I might be wrong as there is no way to step back in time, although others' comments here in response to my original post indicate that not all MMEs have the frost (actually, "beware of ice on bridges" etc. snowflake. Either way, no harm in the instructions being available.

And although some extra-careful drivers in cold regions do not need to be warned, others well might need to be warned... otherwise Vermont and other cold states and provinces would never ever suffer needless accidents, injuries and deaths on annual appearances of black ice... that would all be due to vacationing tourists from Florida right?

Back when I was a pilot, it was drilled into us that the self-assured pilots who flim-flammed through or ignored their preflight plane walkaround inspections were statistically the ones more likely to... (fill in the accident blank here).
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