Towing a trailer with the Mach-E : part one

[emetz582]

This is what you'll want to buy to avoid splices into LED power wires (BIG NO NO). The exception is the required 12v power wire for the trailer lights, which the 12v accessory outlet will serve vs running a wire all the way to the battery.

Not easy to find. I think I got the last one from Walmart, just today!

https://www.draw-tite.com/product/1...y-flat-w-circuit-protected-modulite-hd-module

Search for these keywords;
Tekonsha® T-One® connector 118840
Draw-Tite 118840

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[dtbaker61]

This is what you'll want to buy to avoid splices into LED power wires (BIG NO NO). The exception is the required 12v power wire for the trailer lights, which the 12v accessory outlet will serve vs running a wire all the way to the battery.

Not easy to find. I think I got the last one from Walmart, just today!

https://www.draw-tite.com/product/1...y-flat-w-circuit-protected-modulite-hd-module

Search for these keywords;
Tekonsha® T-One® connector 118840
Draw-Tite 118840

why would it be a big problem to tap existing LED wires if trailer lights are also LED ?

I could see it being a problem if trailer lights are old incandescent with higher current draw.

 

[emetz582]

Never mess with LED power wires if there's a way to avoid it.

This is what can cause all sorts of weird issues that a dealer wont touch because of modified wiring.

You may think its low risk...but the concern is real and issues do occur.

Why chance it when its not needed in this case. Just by the right plug and play kit.

At the very least assure the install kit uses a dedicated POWER WIRE so its using the LED wires as a signal only. There are "clamp on" versions of this too, which avoid splicing.

 

[emetz582]

This is the only universal trailer light kit for cars with LED lights, with clamp on signal wires. No splicing. Dedicated 12v power required. I installed this in my Accord Hybrid which had zero plug n play options.

https://www.tekonsha.com/product/119250_zero-contact-universal-modulite

 

[dtbaker61]

This is the only universal trailer light kit for cars with LED lights, with clamp on signal wires. No splicing. Dedicated 12v power required. I installed this in my Accord Hybrid which had zero plug n play options.

https://www.tekonsha.com/product/119250_zero-contact-universal-modulite

interesting option to avoid physical tap of ANY existing LED wire,
but $229 is a bit much compared to a couple posi-taps at $1 each...

 

[emetz582]

interesting option to avoid physical tap of ANY existing LED wire,
but $229 is a bit much compared to a couple posi-taps at $1 each...

It's your car! Just note 12v pro's do not use those crap taps for a reason.

I also did not recommend it for our cars. I am simply pointing it out as another non-splice option. Heck I'm not even sure where those clamps would attach and fit behind the tail lights!

The plug and play version made specifically for the Mach E is the best option available.

 

[21st Century Pony]

It's your car! Just note 12v pro's do not use those crap taps for a reason.

I also did not recommend it for our cars. I am simply pointing it out as another non-splice option. Heck I'm not even sure where those clamps would attach and fit behind the tail lights!

The plug and play version made specifically for the Mach E is the best option available.

Posi-Taps are not "crap taps".

 

[Billyk24]

This is what you'll want to buy to avoid splices into LED power wires (BIG NO NO). The exception is the required 12v power wire for the trailer lights, which the 12v accessory outlet will serve vs running a wire all the way to the battery.

Not easy to find. I think I got the last one from Walmart, just today!

https://www.draw-tite.com/product/1...y-flat-w-circuit-protected-modulite-hd-module

Search for these keywords;
Tekonsha® T-One® connector 118840
Draw-Tite 118840

Tried to find this and failed via on line vendors

 

[emetz582]

Tried to find this and failed via on line vendors

Yeah, I wasnt kidding about getting the last one available! They are GONE!
One site shows back ordered for weeks.
And etrailer never carried it...which is also odd.

 

[BCMatt]

You can use a trailer module (TRM) from a Ford Escape for trailer lights. I have tested this myself and it works. Part Number LJ6T-19H378-AC.

I plan on adding a Stealth Hitch to my Mach E and I wasn't satisfied with aftermarket light options that require you to tap brake and turn signal lights. I also didn't like the option of using a European module. For one thing, in North America, trailers use the brake lamp on that side as a turn signal. Our cars have amber rear turn signals so the aftermarket trailer modules actually blank the trailer tail lamp if it detects the brake lamp is on at the same time as the turn signal lamp. This is not ideal, the red brake lamp on the trailer should coincide with the amber turn signal. The only way to achieve this is with a stock Ford module that knows via software that a turn signal is active.

The module itself is connected to the medium speed (MS) CAN of the car and an always on 12v source. I found MS CAN wires in the passenger footwell, they are a purple and orange and gray and orange twisted pair. When connecting these to your Ford Escape module, be sure to solder the connections. CAN buses are suspectable to noise if you don't. Similarly, you must use twisted pair wires for the connection; stripping a CAT 5 cable is the easiest place to get twisted pair wires.

Finally, notice that the 12v power feed and trailer light wires from the module are a much heavier gauge than the negative wire. This is because the negative wire only carries a small amount of current required to run the brains of the module itself. The lighting current is carried in the heavier gauge wire and must be grounded to a suitable point with a heavy gauge wire. The positive feed must be sourced with an appropriate gauge wire and connected to a power source that can support 40A (although to be perfectly honest, I'm going to fuse it to 20A because I know my LED trailer lights have a relatively small draw).

View of the Module:

TRM showing up in ForSCAN, proving module works:

View of my test setup:

Location of MS CAN tap point:

Close-up of MS CAN tap point. Alligator clips are just for test. This connection must be soldered!:

Schematic for Ford Escape TRM:

 

[Slowmotion]

Does anyone have a link to the electrics? I can find a universal, but I would rather something more plug and play. I just need to haul trash to the collection site, some kayaks, and maybe a bit of steel from time to time.

Draw tite receiver. Plug and play wiring harness from TorkLift. It all works fine.

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