The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS

[hartmms]

Well, I got all the updates installed. Took about 6 hours total. I freaked out a little after the first update when the dash said "stop safely now", but after reading @Mike G response, I realized they were just "module lost communication" codes since the communication bus was silenced for the module update. Too bad the first post is not really a public wiki, or I would add this note so others would not stress out like I did.

I sure hope this fixes the problem where the adaptive cruise control sees a "phantom car" and slows down.

BTW - my power supply is 55amps. I'm so glad I kept that from my RV when I upgraded to a different system.

Sponsored

 

[Jeff-NoVA]

Well, I got all the updates installed. Took about 6 hours total. I freaked out a little after the first update when the dash said "stop safely now", but after reading @Mike G response, I realized they were just "module lost communication" codes since the communication bus was silenced for the module update. Too bad the first post is not really a public wiki, or I would add this note so others would not stress out like I did.

I sure hope this fixes the problem where the adaptive cruise control sees a "phantom car" and slows down.

I'm just another user, but I agree on the Wiki - this thread is wonderful but its length and density has made it unwieldy as a resource. Too many replies of "go look it up," which is at this point looking for a needle in a haystack.

It would be nice if the first post was separated and kept up to date by @Mike G, @rugedraw, and the other knowledgable folks here (assuming they want to) who have become invaluable to those of us trying to keep our electric ponies up to date.

 

[rugedraw]

I'm just another user, but I agree on the Wiki - this thread is wonderful but its length and density has made it unwieldy as a resource. Too many replies of "go look it up," which is at this point looking for a needle in a haystack.

It would be nice if the first post was separated and kept up to date by @Mike G, @rugedraw, and the other knowledgable folks here (assuming they want to) who have become invaluable to those of us trying to keep our electric ponies up to date.

For these cars, Mike is better suited to maintain it. I've never owned one and my experience with the EV's is limited. I'd be happy to contribute in any way I can. It's really just a matter of copying everything, adjust what's necessary and ask the OP to repost it.

 

[Mike G]

Well, I got all the updates installed. Took about 6 hours total. I freaked out a little after the first update when the dash said "stop safely now", but after reading @Mike G response, I realized they were just "module lost communication" codes since the communication bus was silenced for the module update. Too bad the first post is not really a public wiki, or I would add this note so others would not stress out like I did.

I sure hope this fixes the problem where the adaptive cruise control sees a "phantom car" and slows down.

BTW - my power supply is 55amps. I'm so glad I kept that from my RV when I upgraded to a different system.

If you still get the phantom car thing your cruise radar may need an alignment. That procedure is in FDRS. There is vertical alignment which is checked with the front bumper cover off and using a level, and after that there is horizontal alignment which is done with FDRS.

Normally the vertical alignment should not have changed from whatever the plant adjusted it to unless it's gotten an impact that's knocked it loose.

 

[Mike G]

Also about that cruise radar alignment...


Notes regarding radar drive alignment (from GSB 23-7031)

1. The radar needs to see 150-200 stationary targets on either side of the road to identify the center of the lane.

2. These targets increment as the vehicle is driving over 15 mph (24 km/h).

3. The faster it sees these targets the faster it will complete the process.

4. Loss of communication and internal fault DTCs will prevent completion of the process.

5. Key cycles between initiation of the drive alignment and the drive will move the vehicle out of alignment mode.

 

[Sikkun]

So I took the plunge and ordered a PL6100 and Mongoose Ford 2.

I have two main goals when they arrive this weekend.

1. Don’t brick the car and get killed by my wife.

2. Getting these updates done for my July 2023 Mach E

Any suggestions on the best plan of attack?

 

[Snakebitten]

So I took the plunge and ordered a PL6100 and Mongoose Ford 2.

I have two main goals when they arrive this weekend.

1. Don’t brick the car and get killed by my wife.

2. Getting these updates done for my July 2023 Mach E

Any suggestions on the best plan of attack?

Sounds like you have done your research and are properly equipped.

Just relax, don't fret "time", and enjoy the task.

Oh, start with the GWM.

 

[rugedraw]

So I took the plunge and ordered a PL6100 and Mongoose Ford 2.

I have two main goals when they arrive this weekend.

1. Don’t brick the car and get killed by my wife.

2. Getting these updates done for my July 2023 Mach E



Any suggestions on the best plan of attack?

GWM, APIM, TCU and IPC in that order as they appear. Doing any one of these will/should cause another one of these to pop up since they have to be installed in a certain order. Once you do the GWM, check the list again and if you see an APIM pop up, that's what you do next.

CMR will take 45-60 minutes and the PSCM/IPMA are tied to each other and the IPMA takes 3 hours, so don't start one or the other unless you have time to see them through.

The BCM has an issue where it will ask you for a password and you won't be able to do it.

 

[Sikkun]

GWM, APIM, TCU and IPC in that order as they appear. Doing any one of these will/should cause another one of these to pop up since they have to be installed in a certain order. Once you do the GWM, check the list again and if you see an APIM pop up, that's what you do next.

CMR will take 45-60 minutes and the PSCM/IPMA are tied to each other and the IPMA takes 3 hours, so don't start one or the other unless you have time to see them through.

The BCM has an issue where it will ask you for a password and you won't be able to do it.

Excellent, I’ll be sure to follow that order. No real issues with time other than the 48hr license.

Just need to drill the battery holes and 3D print some plugs.

Is there any I shouldn’t be trying, other than the BCM if it won’t work? Or good to just apply them all?

Thanks.

 

[rugedraw]

Excellent, I’ll be sure to follow that order. No real issues with time other than the 48hr license.

Just need to drill the battery holes and 3D print some plugs.

Is there any I shouldn’t be trying, other than the BCM if it won’t work? Or good to just apply them all?

Thanks.

I would update everything. Try the BCM, but if you get the password pop-up, then Ford hasn't fixed it yet.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Excellent, I’ll be sure to follow that order. No real issues with time other than the 48hr license.

Just need to drill the battery holes and 3D print some plugs.

Is there any I shouldn’t be trying, other than the BCM if it won’t work? Or good to just apply them all?

Thanks.

I strongly suggest having a small USB-capable solid state drive (SSD) and using that instead of a USB drive when FDRS prompts you for a USB. ...and be sure to FOLLOW SYNCH SCREEN INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY if / when a USB is called for.

 

[Sikkun]

I strongly suggest having a small USB-capable solid state drive (SSD) and using that instead of a USB drive when FDRS prompts you for a USB. ...and be sure to FOLLOW SYNCH SCREEN INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY if / when a USB is called for.

Got one of these laying around, https://a.co/d/93pMYwq , I assume it has more speed than the Mach E’s USB can handle.

Of which, USB A, C, or doesn’t matter?

 

[21st Century Pony]

Got one of these laying around, https://a.co/d/93pMYwq , I assume it has more speed than the Mach E’s USB can handle.

Of which, USB A, C, or doesn’t matter?

USB C.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Got one of these laying around, https://a.co/d/93pMYwq , I assume it has more speed than the Mach E’s USB can handle.

This should work perfectly.

 

[Mike G]

That said...the console ports are USB 2.0 only (4 wire) just so everybody is aware. Only so much 'skip' you can put in the 'giddyup'.

I now have a 1TB NVMe SSD in an enclosure that is definitely the faster than my Sandisk I've been using for the last three years. So I was gonna give that a try the next time.

Sponsored