20% Range Loss with New Tires

[Jd43325]

Hi all,

I have a '21 MME Select AWD with 225/60-18 tires. After 40k miles, I replaced the OEM tires. I considered Hankook iONs and Michelin CrossClimate 2s but avoided them—my friend's Hankooks wore out too quick, and I was concerned about excessive range loss with the CrossClimates since they were 3 peak rated/ probable greater rolling resistance. I went with Bridgestone DriveGuard Plus run-flats since the MME doesn’t have a spare.

I’ve seen a 20%/50-mile drop in range (240 mi to now 180-190 mi), which is much more than the 2-5% I expected. Has anyone else experienced this much range loss with new tires?

Thanks for the info!

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[Teslaeata]

Hi all,

I have a '21 MME Select AWD with 225/60-18 tires. After 40k miles, I replaced the OEM tires. I considered Hankook iONs and Michelin CrossClimate 2s but avoided them—my friend's Hankooks wore out too quick, and I was concerned about excessive range loss with the CrossClimates since they were 3 peak rated/had better traction. I went with Bridgestone DriveGuard Plus run-flats since the MME doesn’t have a spare.

I’ve seen a 20%/50-mile drop in range (240 mi to now 180-190 mi), which is much more than the 2-5% I expected. Has anyone else experienced this much range loss with new tires?

Thanks for the info!

No, I went with Mich CC2 tyres and they’re just fine. No noticeable range difference.

 

[CameraCarl]

The US Department of Energy estimates that low rolling resistance tires can save about 3-10% fuel efficiency, so your experience seems a bit high. Maybe they will improve once they wear in more.

 

[Motomax]

The run flats are going to be heavier also which will reduce the efficiency as well.

 

[Scorpy2643]

I have had the Hankooks now for 10k miles. No range loss and they’ve been great.

 

[rainystateguy]

I put a set of the cross climate 2's on my Chevy Bolt and did see a range drop at first, but the range got better after a couple of thousand miles as the tires wore in. I don't have any exact numbers for you.

 

[Tom L]

I have had the Hankooks now for 10k miles. No range loss and they’ve been great.

I’ve also had the Hankooks for 8K miles with good performance overall and 5-7% lower range estimates while HVB capacity remained at 92.5% over the last 20K miles.

 

[Mach1E]

Hi all,

I have a '21 MME Select AWD with 225/60-18 tires. After 40k miles, I replaced the OEM tires. I considered Hankook iONs and Michelin CrossClimate 2s but avoided them—my friend's Hankooks wore out too quick, and I was concerned about excessive range loss with the CrossClimates since they were 3 peak rated/ probable greater rolling resistance. I went with Bridgestone DriveGuard Plus run-flats since the MME doesn’t have a spare.

I’ve seen a 20%/50-mile drop in range (240 mi to now 180-190 mi), which is much more than the 2-5% I expected. Has anyone else experienced this much range loss with new tires?

Thanks for the info!

Since you’re quoting range, that means you’re using the GOM as a measuring stick.

The problem is that the GOM isn’t an accurate measuring stick.

It would be better to look at your miles/kwh on the same road, at the same speed, at the same temperature, with the same amount of wind to see any measurable difference.

20% is just too much to be from a tire swap.

Keep in mind, the GOM changes more than 20% when you DON’T change anything. That thing has a mind of its own.

 

[Pmullin7]

No, I went with Mich CC2 tyres and they’re just fine. No noticeable range difference.

I had exactly that experience as well.

 

[Guss-E 2021]

Along with what @Mach1E said, the only other way to tell is by doing a circle track run from 100% SoC to a dead stop at a constant speed before and after the new tires (assuming all environmental factors are the same). This is obviously unrealistic for just about everyone. So monitoring miles per kWh in good conditions is probably the next best option.

I think the one thing that gets lost in all this focus on range lose is: does it matter in practical application?

I've been tracking my mileage monthly since I bought the car. After 35K+ miles and over two years, I'm sitting squarely at 44 miles a day.

The day my MME can't make that on 100% SoC, is the day I put it out to pasture. I suspect the car will fall apart before that happens.

If you have a much bigger daily average that bumps up against the maximum range (and God help you if that is the case ?), then yah, any range loss becomes a material issue.

 

[4sallypat]

....... I went with Bridgestone DriveGuard Plus run-flats since the MME doesn’t have a spare.

I’ve seen a 20%/50-mile drop in range (240 mi to now 180-190 mi), which is much more than the 2-5% I expected. Has anyone else experienced this much range loss with new tires?

Thanks for the info!

I love Bridgestone DriveGuards - best RFT out there for comfort, ride, stability plus security knowing you can drive on zero air pressure for up to 50 miles.

Put them on all my family's vehicles - never want them stranded on the side of a highway....

My wife's PHEV is getting Bridgestone DriveGuards soon and when it comes time to get my Mach E tires changed out - will be the DriveGuards.

Instead of relying on the GOM which varies widely, do a more detailed over time analysis of your range.

 

[dbsb3233]

As others have said, ignore the GOM as a comparison measure. Set a trip meter to track the MPK (mi/kWh). And don't draw any conclusions until you have at least 500 miles tracked. Otherwise it'll be skewed by routine variance.

And even then, it'll move 10-20% from summer to winter, depending on where you live.

And of course our range/MPK will gradually drop with each passing year of age on the car.

 

[Jd43325]

Since you’re quoting range, that means you’re using the GOM as a measuring stick.

The problem is that the GOM isn’t an accurate measuring stick.

It would be better to look at your miles/kwh on the same road, at the same speed, at the same temperature, with the same amount of wind to see any measurable difference.

20% is just too much to be from a tire swap.

Keep in mind, the GOM changes more than 20% when you DON’T change anything. That thing has a mind of its own.

Thanks for your reply.

I know many say not to look at the GOM as it's not reliable but I haven't had any issues with it (in the 3+ yrs I've had my car) until recently. In the summer I've been getting a full charge at ~225 -230mi on the GOM however been actually getting closer to 240 mi on a charge. Now a full charge is ~205 mi but actually getting 180-190.
And I haven't changed the destinations I drive to or driving technique. The only change has been the tires.
I wish I looked at the mi/kwh right before I changed tires but I remember getting in the high 3s/ low 4s. Yesterday I got 2.7 and 3.5 driving the same trip in one direction and then the other.

 

[Jd43325]

As others have said, ignore the GOM as a comparison measure. Set a trip meter to track the MPK (mi/kWh). And don't draw any conclusions until you have at least 500 miles tracked. Otherwise it'll be skewed by routine variance.

And even then, it'll move 10-20% from summer to winter, depending on where you live.

And of course our range/MPK will gradually drop with each passing year of age on the car.

Thank you for your response

Yes that is my real concern. If my current range has decreased this much in the summer, it's only going to be worse in the winter

 

[dbsb3233]

Thank you for your response

Yes that is my real concern. If my current range has decreased this much in the summer, it's only going to be worse in the winter

Agreed, if your average MPK (not GOM) really has consistently dropped that much in the summer. But based on what you've described, I'm guessing a lot of that 20% difference is just notorious GOM variance, not true range loss. And a lot of that GOM "loss" will return over time. Probably not all of it, but some.

You'll usually get a little drop from new tires, just because of moving from worn (smoother) tires to fresh tread. PSI could have a some impact too. But both of those should be relatively minor, not 20%.

Just spot-checking the live MPK on a short drive will be even more inaccurate than going by the GOM. It has to be tracked over 100's of miles to really trust. There's just way too much variance in the short term.

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