My staggered wheel/tire setups - info, specs, opinions.

[nicholaspe]

265/45/20 with a 9" wheel up front with a +33 or +34 offset will bring that front out flush and more match the rear. If your rears are sticking out 1/4" then the offset is probably around +40 or so, not +47 as they should be to be flush. Thing is, the wheels I get and Steve (HuntingPudel) and quite a few others, are custom made/ordered wheels so we can get the exact fitment we want. If you don't go with custom ordered wheels, you may have to find a set that can get as close to 20x9 +34 up front and 20x10.5 +47 in the rear. We can help you with this so keep us informed how it's going in your search.

Thank you. I will certainly need to bounce options off the brain trust as I find them.

I emailed about my current Curva wheels and they just responded. They said the front is +38 and the rear is +35.

I’ve never custom ordered a wheel and I assume that’s significantly more expensive. The Curvas looked great and were economical, and came as a staggered package. Hopefully I can find something that works. My car is on order so I’ve got a little time to wait for wheels if I need to get them from China

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[HuntingPudel]

Thank you. I will certainly need to bounce options off the brain trust as I find them.

I emailed about my current Curva wheels and they just responded. They said the front is +38 and the rear is +35.

I’ve never custom ordered a wheel and I assume that’s significantly more expensive. The Curvas looked great and were economical, and came as a staggered package. Hopefully I can find something that works. My car is on order so I’ve got a little time to wait for wheels if I need to get them from China

The outfit I got my wheels from is in TX, but they manufacture overseas. Pricing was really not that bad for fully forged wheels (as compared to spin-cast/rotary forged, or cast). Since our cars are a little oddball, custom just makes sense. ??

 

[nicholaspe]

The outfit I got my wheels from is in TX, but they manufacture overseas. Pricing was really not that bad for fully forged wheels (as compared to spin-cast/rotary forged, or cast). Since our cars are a little oddball, custom just makes sense. ??

I’ve found these as a staggered package. It’s the design and color I like, and 20 x 9 and 20 x 10.5. They come out to be about $1400 after a military discount! Seems like a good deal for a good wheel… unless you guys see something I’m not. I can’t seem to find the offset numbers but I just emailed them. Thoughts?

https://audiocityusa.com/shop/20-St...F10-Brushed-Dual-Bronze-Flow-Formed-Rims.html

I’ve found a few others sets that I like too. Hard to know the grade of bronze to best match the vehicle. They’re similar but a little different. If I do 295/40 rear, a 10” wheel won’t do? Needs to be 10.5”?

 

[HuntingPudel]

My custom forged wheels were a about 500 more with a holiday discount. They even have a very similar design to the one you chose. The advantage of fully custom is that you get exactly what your car needs: Wheel OD and width, offset, bolt pattern, center bore diameter. Oh and of course, color. ??

 

[markboris]

Thank you. I will certainly need to bounce options off the brain trust as I find them.

I emailed about my current Curva wheels and they just responded. They said the front is +38 and the rear is +35.

I’ve never custom ordered a wheel and I assume that’s significantly more expensive. The Curvas looked great and were economical, and came as a staggered package. Hopefully I can find something that works. My car is on order so I’ve got a little time to wait for wheels if I need to get them from China

The offsets that they quoted you on your front wheels make sense but the rears not as much. Your front's are +38 when they should be around +33 so that is a 5mm difference which is about 1/4". If they were +33 they would be flush with the fender moulding. On the rear, they are +35 when they should be +47. That seems a little off because you said they had a poke of about 1/4" which means if they had been +47, they would be inset about 1/4" since there is about a 1/2" difference between +35 and +47. Regardless, you are looking for wheels as close as you can get to Front 20x9 ET+33 and Rear 20x10.5 ET+47.

 

[nicholaspe]

The offsets that they quoted you on your front wheels make sense but the rears not as much. Your front's are +38 when they should be around +33 so that is a 5mm difference which is about 1/4". If they were +33 they would be flush with the fender moulding. On the rear, they are +35 when they should be +47. That seems a little off because you said they had a poke of about 1/4" which means if they had been +47, they would be inset about 1/4" since there is about a 1/2" difference between +35 and +47. Regardless, you are looking for wheels as close as you can get to Front 20x9 ET+33 and Rear 20x10.5 ET+47.

I’m going to ask them to confirm on my current wheels. I can see how +35 can’t be right. I don’t understand how spacers work but is it possible there are spacers making up the difference? Also I’m realizing I’ve got the numbers working backwards. I would have thought +47 would push the wheel out further than +35. If +47 is flush, then +35 is about .5 inches out. I’m going to measure carefully. Maybe I eye-balled it wrong. Regarding the fronts, I currently run a 20 x 9.5 (not 9 as you’ve suggested) if that makes a difference.

A couple specific questions:

If I run a 265/40/20 x 9 , +33 is still my target for flush?

In the rear, could camber be the difference between .5 and .25 at the level of the wheel well? Can I measure this with a level?

You’ve given me the numbers for flush. This is the most important part. Every millimeter less is that much further poking out.

EDIT: OK, I did some measuring and observations with the level (and read up on camber a little to be sure). Using a long level that shows vertical level, placing it against the tire near the ground, when perfectly vertical it shows a gap just shy of an inch relative to the upper tire. Now that I’m looking for it, there is an obvious camber of nearly 1”. When the vertical level is placed only against the upper tire and balanced vertically, there is about 3/8” poking out from the well. These numbers together indicate the bottom of the tire is just a little less than 1.25” out from the well. Interesting how subtle these numbers are when not looking for them. But the camber (and maybe a little wheel poking out) give it a very aggressive stance. I didn’t ask anyone to camber it so someone must have taken it upon themself to do it at instal.

This is all to say that the +35 in the rear, along with the camber, could be correct. Of course tell me if I’m wrong.

Not sure how to direct them to do the same thing next time (ie how do my measurements translate to instal talk).

 

[AliRafiee]

Look it. If I have time tomorrow I’ll get them installed.

You guys got good deals. Mine cost $2700.

 

[McSquashy]

Look it. If I have time tomorrow I’ll get them installed.

You guys got good deals. Mine cost $2700.

Nice! Can't wait to see them mounted

 

[markboris]

Look it. If I have time tomorrow I’ll get them installed.

You guys got good deals. Mine cost $2700.

I can't wait to see them mounted too!!

Did you see my post to you on Thursday that I have extra 3mm and 5mm spacers I can send you if you need them?

 

[AliRafiee]

I can't wait to see them mounted too!!

Did you see my post to you on Thursday that I have extra 3mm and 5mm spacers I can send you if you need them?

Thanks Mark. I have a set of 5mm ones. If 3mm will be enough, I’ll order some.
Where should I look for rubbing?

 

[markboris]

Thanks Mark. I have a set of 5mm ones. If 3mm will be enough, I’ll order some.
Where should I look for rubbing?

On both front and rear, the rubbing will be the inner tire sidewall. On the front it will be against the strut body (tube) and the rear will be the upper shock mount. Once tires/wheels are mounted, the car needs to be on the ground. You can't easily see if you have enough clearance so I use something like a Phillips #1 screw driver or similar object to place between the sidewall and front strut, rear upper shock mount. If you have enough clearance, take the car out for a very short slow drive (1/4 mile) then bring back and check again. Camber adjustment in the front will not change the clearance of the tire and strut as they both move together but in the rear, camber adjustment will change the clearance. The more negative camber, the closer that inner sidewall will be to the upper shock mount.

If you barely have enough clearance, I would not use a 5mm. That is too much. I'd go with a 3mm.

 

[nicholaspe]

Look it. If I have time tomorrow I’ll get them installed.

You guys got good deals. Mine cost $2700.

Those look beautiful! I’m sure they’ll look great! You like the color? I can never get a good feel for the bronze color because lighting changes it so much.

 

[AliRafiee]

Those look beautiful! I’m sure they’ll look great! You like the color? I can never get a good feel for the bronze color because lighting changes it so much.

They look much better in person than the pictures. It’s pretty close to the GT’s accents on the dash and doors.

 

[AliRafiee]

@markboris
Finally got them put on. I haven’t used the spacers you sent me yet. BTW, thank you again. Every clears, but I only have a millimeter or two between the tire and the front part of rear tire liner.
We put some chalk marks on the inside of the tire, and so far it seems untouched. ?

 

[nicholaspe]

Looks awesome! Congrats!

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