Melted 240V outlet (Major Disaster Avoided) -- PSA: only highly rated charging equipment

[radios]

So, pulled up my Ford Pass App this morning expecting to see it at 80% SOC just like every time I home charge for the last 40 months of life; and yet I see “Charge Error” with a red banner or writing, can’t recall now.

So, I go look at my Juice Box and there are no lights on. Never seen that unless it was unplugged. I glance at the outlet & you can see what I see. What appears a melted crumbling outlet.

The 240 was installed by a licensed electrician but I did switch the receptacle to one that fit the Juice Box over 3 years ago (January 2020). The receptacle was from Home Depot & I’m assuming that is the weak link ?.

I’m fully aware this could have escalated into a serious house/EV fire ? in the middle of the night ( as the car is set to start charging at midnight).

I am posting this primarily as a warning since I’ve seen a lot of new avatars on the forum this year. Please use only highly rated charging equipment ( not the $15 Home Depot) outlet like I did let only Certified & experienced electricians install these Home EV chargers!!!

Now I’m in the market for a new charger. Watched Tim Malogahney’s 2024 review, but am open to suggestions on chargers. This one will be hard wired!!!!

For those newbies go to YouTube and search “State of Charge” for best and latest charger info.

Sponsored

 

[HuntingPudel]

Ye

Wow, I trickle charged last night (1st time ever) using Ford’s mobile charger. Way too slow for this hombre!!! Not so patiently awaiting my Charge Point!!!

Yeah, that 120V at 12A charging is so slllllllooooowwwwwwww. ??

I did that once before I got my Tesla Mobile at my friend’s duck club. ??

 

[radios]

" The receptacle was from Home Depot & I’m assuming that is the weak link " I am not sure what you are referring to but Home Depot is not the weak link.

 

[khbkhb]

What we can tell is that there is no advantage to plugin connection.

While we went with hardwired (two actually) there is a good argument for a plug. If/when a hardwired EVSE bites the dust, you have a backup (yeah, I sprung for a third circuit with an outlet as well).

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

" The receptacle was from Home Depot & I’m assuming that is the weak link " I am not sure what you are referring to but Home Depot is not the weak link.

No, No, I'm a Fan of Home Depot. The weak link is the Leviton outlet I purchased from Home Depot. I guess as EVs get more common place they will carry better quality Outlets for EVs.

 

[devmach-e]

Actually you can. Breakers are designed to carry their rated current. But for EVSE applications, the NEC limits a 14-50 receptacle to 40 amps on a 50 amp breaker. But it’s not my house, so I’d say you’re golden.

It isn't just for EVSE applications, it is for any load that is continuous for 3 hours or more. That could be a 100-gallon water heater on startup with 40F water in it. Or a large kiln.

 

[dtbaker61]

... What we can tell is that there is no advantage to plugin connection. ...

One advantage is that you have a 240v outlet that can be used to run tools, a second is that an outlet can be used in emergency situations with a Generator to power your house when the Grid is down.

 

[RonBme]

So, pulled up my Ford Pass App this morning expecting to see it at 80% SOC just like every time I home charge for the last 40 months of life; and yet I see “Charge Error” with a red banner or writing, can’t recall now.

So, I go look at my Juice Box and there are no lights on. Never seen that unless it was unplugged. I glance at the outlet & you can see what I see. What appears a melted crumbling outlet.

The 240 was installed by a licensed electrician but I did switch the receptacle to one that fit the Juice Box over 3 years ago (January 2020). The receptacle was from Home Depot & I’m assuming that is the weak link ?.

I’m fully aware this could have escalated into a serious house/EV fire ? in the middle of the night ( as the car is set to start charging at midnight).

I am posting this primarily as a warning since I’ve seen a lot of new avatars on the forum this year. Please use only highly rated charging equipment ( not the $15 Home Depot) outlet like I did let only Certified & experienced electricians install these Home EV chargers!!!

Now I’m in the market for a new charger. Watched Tim Malogahney’s 2024 review, but am open to suggestions on chargers. This one will be hard wired!!!!

For those newbies go to YouTube and search “State of Charge” for best and latest charger info.

I'm not on here as much. You can normally find me on Facebook on the different forms but I tell everyone do not use the 240 plug when using any breaker above 40 amps. Reason being it will melt because of the high heat and can ultimately cause a fire and you'll burn your s*** down. And I'm sorry that it happened

 

[RonBme]

The differences:

There is no difference anything above 40 amps when it comes to the breaker you should be hardwiring the evse

One advantage is that you have a 240v outlet that can be used to run tools, a second is that an outlet can be used in emergency situations with a Generator to power your house when the Grid is down.

And the disadvantage is when using this plug for your evse can possibly burn your house. The plug will melt. You guys have to understand anything above. A 40 amp breaker will melt this plug. In some instances I've heard 40 amps to do it, but you go to any major charger company and their handbooks with the chargers. It tells you to hardwire for best results. It's a safety thing because the plugs aren't designed to take in that much heat. It doesn't matter if you use a commercial versus a residential 240 plug. The plugs were not designed to push and pull that much energy through it as the cars use and need

 

[Maquis]

There is no difference anything above 40 amps when it comes to the breaker you should be hardwiring the evse

And the disadvantage is when using this plug for your evse can possibly burn your house. The plug will melt. You guys have to understand anything above. A 40 amp breaker will melt this plug. In some instances I've heard 40 amps to do it, but you go to any major charger company and their handbooks with the chargers. It tells you to hardwire for best results. It's a safety thing because the plugs aren't designed to take in that much heat. It doesn't matter if you use a commercial versus a residential 240 plug. The plugs were not designed to push and pull that much energy through it as the cars use and need

I wish you would cite a source for your information, because it doesn’t reflect what is being seen in the field. I’ve seen at least 50 pictures of melted 14-50 receptacles and none of them - zero - were Hubbell/Bryant industrial ones.

There are many 40A UL-listed EVSEs that are sold with cord and plug that provide no instructions for hard-wiring.

 

[dtbaker61]

There is no difference anything above 40 amps when it comes to the breaker you should be hardwiring the evse

And the disadvantage is when using this plug for your evse can possibly burn your house. The plug will melt. You guys have to understand anything above. A 40 amp breaker will melt this plug. In some instances I've heard 40 amps to do it, but you go to any major charger company and their handbooks with the chargers. It tells you to hardwire for best results. It's a safety thing because the plugs aren't designed to take in that much heat. It doesn't matter if you use a commercial versus a residential 240 plug. The plugs were not designed to push and pull that much energy through it as the cars use and need

exactly, that is why I advocate for pulling no more than 32amp thru a nema 14-50 even if it is perfectly wired with commercial grade plug and recepticle.

 

[devmach-e]

exactly, that is why I advocate for pulling no more than 32amp thru a nema 14-50 even if it is perfectly wired with commercial grade plug and recepticle.

But if you use an industrial receptacle, like a Bryant or Hubbel, would that be acceptable?

 

[RonBme]

exactly, that is why I advocate for pulling no more than 32amp thru a nema 14-50 even if it is perfectly wired with commercial grade plug and recepticle.

I don't think people understand and what nature the plug was designed for. If you wash your clothes, you dry your clothes. The dryer is only on an hour. Two tops a deep freezer cuts on shuts off every so many hours. Same as any other household item that you use like your stove, your stove cuts on and cuts off. It's not on for 10 hours straight 100% of the time but an EV charger an evse whenever is charging. It's a minimum 5 hours at 100% of the time and the plugs cannot handle that they were only designed for maybe 80% usage and it's not 5 hours. Maybe an hour or two

 

[dtbaker61]

But if you use an industrial receptacle, like a Bryant or Hubbel, would that be acceptable?

a high quality install and correct gauge wire will lower your risk, but pulling more than 32 amps for more than 3 hours thru a nema 14-50 is not a great idea.

if you really really really WANT to pull more than 32a, you should hardwire.

 

[Scooby24]

I don't think people understand and what nature the plug was designed for. If you wash your clothes, you dry your clothes. The dryer is only on an hour. Two tops a deep freezer cuts on shuts off every so many hours. Same as any other household item that you use like your stove, your stove cuts on and cuts off. It's not on for 10 hours straight 100% of the time but an EV charger an evse whenever is charging. It's a minimum 5 hours at 100% of the time and the plugs cannot handle that they were only designed for maybe 80% usage and it's not 5 hours. Maybe an hour or two

Industrial outlets can and are handling it fine. They are simply built to a more robust standard and, as such, no one has reported a burnt outlet using that hardware.

To your point that "it doesn't matter"....it does. The failure rate of 100% of the reported outlets melting down being commercial grade and 0% being industrial grade is kinda...significant.

Sponsored