Changing brakes and rotors on my 2023 Premium AWD with PowerStop K8805 brake kit from RockAuto

[RodHower]

The brakes are fine on my 2023, however it's really annoying that the rotors rust after I wash the car or drive through rain. I've used the PowerStop drilled and slotted on the wife's 2017 Trailhawk (2 years ago) and on the front of my 2000 Honda Insight (4 years ago). These rotors show no signs of rust and still look new after driving in all weather conditions in NE Ohio. Plus the drilled and slotted just look cool! I also plan on painting the calipers with high temperature red Rustoleum caliper spray paint.

So this is the procedure I plan on using for the brake change,

Video showing how to activate brake service mode,


Because the MME doesn’t follow the normal rules for getting into and out of brake service mode, here is a plain language version adapted from the tech manual.
First, a couple caveats. You will not be able to enter or exit Brake Service mode if you have any fault codes pertaining to the brakes. These must be cleared with a diagnostic computer first. If you don’t have one, and you have faults, you‘re SOL. Bleeding the brakes also requires a diagnostic computer, so really don’t open the brake line. Caliper pistons can be compressed without needing a brake winding tool. The procedure calls for the ignition to be in the “on” position. I still don’t know if that means “on” as in accessory mode, or on as in “Ready to drive” mode. The tech I spoke with said either would work. But here’s the simple Version:

To enter Brake Service Mode:
1. Car turned “on” and in park.
2. Hold the accelorator down. Do not release until told to.
3. Hold the parking brake switch DOWN. Do not release until told to.
4. Turn the car off.
5. Turn the car “on” within 5 seconds.
6. Release the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch.
7. Get out of car.
8. Slap the side of the car while saying aloud, “Well I’ll be, that guy on the interweb was right.”
9. Enjoy your brake work.

Video showing how to use the AOSK Mach-E Jack pads


AI Notes,
Steps for safely jacking up a Mustang Mach-E:
Locate the jacking points: These are found on the perimeter frame around the battery, marked with arrows on the plastic body panels.
Prepare the jack and stands: Ensure the floor jack is in good working condition. Use jack stands with rubber tops to protect the frame.
Position the jack: Place the jack under the designated jacking point, ensuring the rubber puck is properly positioned to protect the frame.
Lift the vehicle: Raise the car slowly and evenly, ensuring the jack is stable.
Position jack stands: Place the jack stands at the factory locations near the jacking points, ensuring they are stable and properly supporting the vehicle.
Lower the vehicle: Slowly lower the car onto the jack stands, ensuring the car is stable and supported by the stands.
Repeat on the opposite side: Repeat the process on the opposite side of the vehicle.
Inspect the work area: Ensure the ground is stable and clear of any obstructions.

To cancel/escape/leave/or otherwise deactivate Brake Service Mode
1. Car turned “on” and in park.
2. Hold the accelerator down. Do not release until told to.
3. Hold the parking brake switch UP. Do not release until told to.
4. Press the brake pedal down for at least 1 second.
5. Release the brake pedal (continue holding the accelerator and parking brake switch)
6. Turn the car off,
7. Turn the car back “on” within 5 seconds.
8. Release the accelerator and parking brake switch.
9. Get out of car.
10. Clean the greasy finger splotches off the start/stop switch and the parking brake switch. You really should have cleaned your hands before deactivating brake service mode.

Other notes;
The main issue requiring brake service mode is the electric parking brake which engages automatically. If you don’t enter service mode, the parking brake will have the pads hard against the rotor and you won’t be able to get the caliper off to change the pads. Service mode disabled this allowing you to freely remove the caliper, change the pads and rotors if needed, then put it all back together.
Worse than that, you could dummy it up like me, and have a front caliper off when you turn the car on, at which time the car automatically applies the brakes on startup. I blew the piston right out of a front caliper because there was no pads or rotor to stop it. Then it had to go to the dealer to be bled after I got it back together. And it was only sheer luck that the seal didn’t get ruined.

Other notes from the video;
Thanks for the vid. As i understand this only applies for the parking brakes? Should this also be done for the front rotor maintenance?
Just in the rear

Hello, Very good explanation. Very Clear. I just got my mach-e and I am a DIY'er through and through. What is the purpose of this procedure?
What is it actually doing mechanically? Is this required when say replacing brake pads? TIA!

Yep, when replacing the pads you'd put it in maintenance mode first, which will allow you to compress the caliper.

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[AnimalChin]

Drilled and slotted rotors are known to crack. They aren't a good idea for the street unless you are willing to risk getting stranded on the side of the road.

 

[ack154]

The brakes are fine on my 2023, however it's really annoying that the rotors rust after I wash the car or drive through rain. I've used the PowerStop drilled and slotted on the wife's 2017 Trailhawk (2 years ago) and on the front of my 2000 Honda Insight (4 years ago). These rotors show no signs of rust and still look new after driving in all weather conditions in NE Ohio. Plus the drilled and slotted just look cool! I also plan on painting the calipers with high temperature red Rustoleum caliper spray paint.

I suspect that you're still going to see rust on these rotors with your Mach-E and may be wasting money replacing something that isn't needed (and may not make a difference).

You don't see rust with those other vehicles because they're using their friction brakes 100% of the time. The Mach-E doesn't do that. So the rotors are more likely to show rust when they aren't being cleaned by the pads when using regen - unless you're doing a lot of hard braking to get the friction brakes to kick in more often.

 

[RodHower]

I suspect that you're still going to see rust on these rotors with your Mach-E and may be wasting money replacing something that isn't needed (and may not make a difference).

You don't see rust with those other vehicles because they're using their friction brakes 100% of the time. The Mach-E doesn't do that. So the rotors are more likely to show rust when they aren't being cleaned by the pads when using regen - unless you're doing a lot of hard braking to get the friction brakes to kick in more often.

When I say they have no rust, I'm talking about the entire rotor, including the inner hub does not rust, so it is a superior material. Even the edges of the rotor are not rusted. I have pulled a dual axle trailer hauling 1k lbs with the wife's trailhawk and have not had any issues with cracks on the rotors

 

[Blue highway]

slotted discs and painted calipers will look cool for sure... but the rotors are still gonna rust because the car is not using brakes to stop unless you brake fairly hard. Pushing the brake pedal activates regen, and once that is not enough, it starts using friction brakes.

 

[RickMachE]

Get to speed, shift to N, apply brakes. Repeat. Rust gone. Cost - ZERO.

 

[RodHower]

slotted discs and painted calipers will look cool for sure... but the rotors are still gonna rust because the car is not using brakes to stop unless you brake fairly hard. Pushing the brake pedal activates regen, and once that is not enough, it starts using friction brakes.

I use the friction brakes at least once every time I drive by putting it in neutral and stopping. This removes the rust and activates the calipers. I never used the brakes on my 2014 Volt and used regen to stop by driving in low. The brakes ended up sticking in the slide pins and froze. The outside brake pads looked new, but the inner pads wore metal to metal because it was dragging. I told my daughter she needs to put it in neutral and activate the friction brakes in order to prevent this from happening on her 2014 Volt.

 

[Creaky]

Driving backwards and braking might actually be easier and safer then switching to neutral at speed. The MME always uses the friction brakes when going backwards.

 

[pghdriver]

Driving backwards and braking might actually be easier and safer then switching to neutral at speed. The MME always uses the friction brakes when going backwards.

How is putting the vehicle in neutral and using brakes less safe or harder?

 

[Creaky]

It's not, please disregard my safety comment

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Imma gonna be a bit contrarian here: rather than telling you it's a bad idea to do what you're planning, I'll just wish you the best and look forward to reading about your results and seeing your photos.

 

[RodHower]

I suspect that you're still going to see rust on these rotors with your Mach-E and may be wasting money replacing something that isn't needed (and may not make a difference).

You don't see rust with those other vehicles because they're using their friction brakes 100% of the time. The Mach-E doesn't do that. So the rotors are more likely to show rust when they aren't being cleaned by the pads when using regen - unless you're doing a lot of hard braking to get the friction brakes to kick in more often.

This is a close up of the rotors on the wife's 2017 Jeep Trailhawk. The spots that look like rust are actually dirt, I need to power wash the wheels. The rotors are still in excellent condition after 2 winters in NE Ohio. Someone posted about cracks on drilled and slotted rotors, I'm guessing that's from extreme heat with very aggressive driving on a vehicle without regen. The quality of the rotor material and the precision of the drilling process can affect the rotor's susceptibility to cracking. Repeated heating and cooling during braking causes the rotor to expand and contract, exacerbating the stress on the drilled holes and accelerating crack formation. This should not be an issue if regen is the primary braking method. The only reason I use these rotors is the quality of the material and they don't rust.

 

[Shayne]

slotted discs and painted calipers will look cool for sure... but the rotors are still gonna rust because the car is not using brakes to stop unless you brake fairly hard. Pushing the brake pedal activates regen, and once that is not enough, it starts using friction brakes.

Disagree not all metallurgy is created equal. Almost like they need to give service something so install these rotors.

Rotor rust for this vehicle is ridiculous for it just sitting there and then next time used the wheels and tires are covered in rust. I have a GM that sits around more than the MME and they are shiny and never rust. The rusting is not normal with a big rust stain on the front rotors where the pads stuck on. That has been the case since the beginning and the whole cars shakes if used. My service said nothing about it until it was out of warranty now they say the rotors need to be turned and new pads installed for $900 after only 20K miles (both still green). I would also be interested in a set of rotors that are better quality than what comes with this vehicle.

Any other alternate rotor options appreciated.

 

[markboris]

Drilled and slotted rotors are known to crack. They aren't a good idea for the street unless you are willing to risk getting stranded on the side of the road.

Low quality drilled/slotted rotors can crack/warp. High quality rotors however like RB Performance Brake rotors will not and if they ever do, will be replaced for free with their lifetime warranty. They also don’t warp and warrantied for that too. I’ve used them on my F-150, Escape, Focus RS and I currently have them on my GT500. Wish they made them for the Mach-E. I’ve asked several times in the past 4 years but nothing yet.

 

[KidGalahad]

I'm excited to see your results. I've had aftermarket slotted rotors on many cars I've owned in the past. They look great compared to the stock rotors of most vehicles, especially if you have aftermarket wheels. I've never had an issue with cracking or warping, but then again, I've always tried to purchase quality, so I guess YMMV...

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