RobbertPatrison

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James III

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Hello Mach-Lee, (et al)
I just received a OBD2,adapter with alligator clips. I hooked it up to my little smart battery maintainer. Hey presto right away… voltage readings, 11.9vDC looking like its working. Left it a bit, then came out and pressed ON no thinking too much & no ICE alternator to kick in a charge, then ‘ poof ‘ charger screen went dead, flashing blank like unplugged from battery. Doh ?! The inline F2A 20mm fuse on adaptor was blown. I changed it and tried again. No joy! Oh no… charger lcd still doest’t get a reading. I checked charger on a normal car battery and little charger is fine. Trying my ODB adapter for Car Scanner and still lights up like a ? and works fine 12V SOC is 50%.
Any idea what I messed up? OMG ?

Thanks
(looking for my dunce cap)
 

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Charge current was to high or the polarity was wrong. Only a 2 amp fuse.
 
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Mach-Lee

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Hello Mach-Lee, (et al)
I just received a OBD2,adapter with alligator clips. I hooked it up to my little smart battery maintainer. Hey presto right away… voltage readings, 11.9vDC looking like its working. Left it a bit, then came out and pressed ON no thinking too much & no ICE alternator to kick in a charge, then ‘ poof ‘ charger screen went dead, flashing blank like unplugged from battery. Doh ?! The inline F2A 20mm fuse on adaptor was blown. I changed it and tried again. No joy! Oh no… charger lcd still doest’t get a reading. I checked charger on a normal car battery and little charger is fine. Trying my ODB adapter for Car Scanner and still lights up like a ? and works fine 12V SOC is 50%.
Any idea what I messed up? OMG ?

Thanks
(looking for my dunce cap)
I think you may have missed my warning about using a charger that's 3 amps or less. I guess the one you got only has a 2A fuse, so you're limited to a 2A charger or less.
 


James III

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I think you may have missed my warning about using a charger that's 3 amps or less. I guess the one you got only has a 2A fuse, so you're limited to a 2A charger or less.
no, it was working, just fine until I made the mistake of turning the car ON while it was connected that’s when the fuse blew. the charger when it first connected doesn’t start charging till the button is pressed to set the charge level first. It’s just a digital read out of the battery charge.
I know you can’t do that with a ICE car because they alternator charging the battery when started. I Didn’t think it would matter here.
But now seems like no charge connection at all to the12v battery.There’s no read out at all just flashes.. So I was wondering if it might’ve blown a fuse or IC somewhere between the obd and 12lvb . The odd thing is the OBD VGATE gate connects okay. I’ll try putting a multimeter on it tomorrow.
 
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Mach-Lee

Mach-Lee

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no, it was working, just fine until I made the mistake of turning the car ON while it was connected that’s when the fuse blew. the charger when it first connected doesn’t start charging till the button is pressed to set the charge level first. It’s just a digital read out of the battery charge.
I know you can’t do that with a ICE car because they alternator charging the battery when started. I Didn’t think it would matter here.
But now seems like no charge connection at all to the12v battery.There’s no read out at all just flashes.. So I was wondering if it might’ve blown a fuse or IC somewhere between the obd and 12lvb . The odd thing is the OBD VGATE gate connects okay. I’ll try putting a multimeter on it tomorrow.
Well if you turned the car on, the output of the charger would have been hit with 15V suddenly, and that might have fried it if it's a cheap 12V charger. The Vgate wouldn't work unless there's 12V at the OBDII port.

What brand and model of charger was this for future reference?

I guess the lesson is don't turn your car on with an OBD port charger connected?
 

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Definitely a dumb move turning on the car!
I thought maybe I fried the charger and not a chip or fuse in the car. But I checked the charger a 12v spare battery direct connection and it worked. As I mentioned when 1st connected it displays a battery voltage readout. It needs a 12V or 6 V connection to activate, other display just flashes. Maybe I blew something in the OBD adapter to clips.
I just was a bit frightened it did something in the car. Type is Auto XS. It has 3 Modes 0.8A for batteries up to 120 Ah charging and 3.8a & 3.8a Cold. 15.1 V cut off. Auto Trickle charge current 50–150 mA.
UPDATE: checked continuity in OBD cable to (+) ?, Fuse OK, then found tiny spring inside fuse folder missing, must have popped out changing fuse. . Connected multimeter 11.9 Vdc ✅. Charger now working on 0.8A mode. ?
 
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Mach-Lee

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Definitely a dumb move turning on the car!
I thought maybe I fried the charger and not a chip or fuse in the car. But I checked the charger a 12v spare battery direct connection and it worked. As I mentioned when 1st connected it displays a battery voltage readout. It needs a 12V or 6 V connection to activate, other display just flashes. Maybe I blew something in the OBD adapter to clips.
I just was a bit frightened it did something in the car. Type is Auto XS. It has 3 Modes 0.8A for batteries up to 120 Ah charging and 3.8a & 3.8a Cold. 15.1 V cut off. Auto Trickle charge current 50–150 mA.
UPDATE: checked continuity in OBD cable to (+) ?, Fuse OK, then found tiny spring inside fuse folder missing, must have popped out changing fuse. . Connected multimeter 11.9 Vdc ✅. Charger now working on 0.8A mode. ?
No offense, but that charger is cheap crap. Spend money on something decent like a CTEK. I see it charges all the way past 15V, which is going to damage the AGM. On trickle charge it shouldn't go higher than 13.8V. Do not let it sit above 14V for more than a few hours.

You're better off letting it sit unplugged than putting on a cheap charger that's going to damage the battery or the OBD port.
 

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Yes it is quite cheap. Works great on regular lead batteries. But your 12V FAQ sets it straight.
The manual says its good for Gel snd AGM batts, but suggests the 3.8A mode.
It’s only slow 0.8A mode now, and still just showing 12.02V…. buts not doing much and it is concerning & unexpected to see LBV SOC going from 50% an hour ago to 40% now ??? https://www.ford.com/myaccount/account-dashboard.
Does anything happen if when connected the HVB kicks in to charge the LBV?
I’ll look into a CTEK now. Can it be limited to charge below 3A? Looks like AGM mode an MXS 5.0 & others AGM mode is 3.6A. Motorcycle mode is 0.8A same as this XS.
Is the NOCO Genius 1.1 any good? I just need something hooked up while I’m gone for two months. - TKS
 
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James III

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Just went out I could see the charger display through window showing 11.8V! I opened the door and it went to 12.2V. Of course opening door it unlocks. mirror s go out, interior lights come on and screen comes alive briefly. Message came on screen “ shutting down system to save battery, “
I disconnected the OBD charge cable and turned it on, hoping HGV will kick in.
Obviously, I don’t think that this OBD cable is actually allowing charging the battery. it was designed as a memory saver to hook up when changing the battery in a normal ice car so that settings codes etc aren’t lost. I guess to make this work, I’ll finally have to cut some holes in the panel, and get a decent charger.
 

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Charger disconnected. MME ON 1 hr+
LBV SOC now 75%

Here’s the OBDII wiring (+) PIN 16, (-) Ground PIN 4. (resistor is to small LED)

Does not charge LBV but seems to deplete it smart charger connected on ?️ mode 0.8A.

Ford Mustang Mach-E 12V Battery FAQ IMG_1389
 
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Mach-Lee

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Just went out I could see the charger display through window showing 11.8V! I opened the door and it went to 12.2V. Of course opening door it unlocks. mirror s go out, interior lights come on and screen comes alive briefly. Message came on screen “ shutting down system to save battery, “
I disconnected the OBD charge cable and turned it on, hoping HGV will kick in.
Obviously, I don’t think that this OBD cable is actually allowing charging the battery. it was designed as a memory saver to hook up when changing the battery in a normal ice car so that settings codes etc aren’t lost. I guess to make this work, I’ll finally have to cut some holes in the panel, and get a decent charger.
At this point I recommend you disconnect everything, put it in the trash, and pray you didn’t damage your car. Do not use a battery saver device with alligator clips! If the positive clip touches any metal you short out the OBD port.

This is what you should be using so it’s safe:

Ford Mustang Mach-E 12V Battery FAQ 1707494592130


Or use a battery charger under the hood the regular way.
 

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At this point I recommend you disconnect everything, put it in the trash, and pray you didn’t damage your car.
I will second this. Learn from my mistakes: just because you can make a DIY solution does not mean you should. On a previous car I had, I tried to wire in a high current USB charger to the vehicle wiring harness behind the OBD port. I goofed somehow and the trunk opening motor fried along with the wire to it melted. That was a $300 mistake. I should have just bought a 12v car lighter adapter with 2amp charing.
 

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Just went out I could see the charger display through window showing 11.8V! I opened the door and it went to 12.2V. Of course opening door it unlocks. mirror s go out, interior lights come on and screen comes alive briefly. Message came on screen “ shutting down system to save battery, “
I disconnected the OBD charge cable and turned it on, hoping HGV will kick in.
Obviously, I don’t think that this OBD cable is actually allowing charging the battery. it was designed as a memory saver to hook up when changing the battery in a normal ice car so that settings codes etc aren’t lost. I guess to make this work, I’ll finally have to cut some holes in the panel, and get a decent charger.
This is what my panel looks like when I cut the holes above the neg and pos charging posts.
Ford Mustang Mach-E 12V Battery FAQ IMG_2059
Ford Mustang Mach-E 12V Battery FAQ IMG_2058
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