12V Recall (25S65) Software Released

Vgkfan

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I’ve read where disconnecting the 12v has been a remedy for several different glitches. Would you now need to have the car shut down for 12 minutes before doing that? I feel like this thread has that answer but I’m just not putting it together.
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rreddy3

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It’s not that the change can’t complete within 12 minutes. The HV to LV converter will be active for 12 minutes after shutdown so the process of disconnecting the battery cannot start until 12 minutes after shut down. 🤔🐩
Pebbles the 🐩 and I are going to have a chat and come up with some CAUTION wording and make a sticker or stencil it on the trim piece over the battery. I suppose it’s possible this fix was created without considering secondary unintended consequences…but I guess I’d rather believe Ford engineers and project managers are up to the task and through testing determined the risk is minimal. But, that might be wishful thinking…
 

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It’s not that the change can’t complete within 12 minutes. The HV to LV converter will be active for 12 minutes after shutdown so the process of disconnecting the battery cannot start until 12 minutes after shut down. 🤔🐩
Yes, I understand that, my point is how is this a concern for anyone. Under what circumstances or situations would anybody be accidently racing to disconnect the 12V battery within 12 minutes after shutting down the vehicle causing this failure. And this especially applies to automotive service centers, whether dealer or independent. If one started working on your vehicle within 12 minutes of you shutting down your vehicle, it'll be the first time in history that ever happened. Unless the car's on fire, a mechanic is not digging into your car within 12 minutes of you getting out of it. I apologize if my initial post was unclear, but I think you get what I'm saying here.
 

AZBill

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The 12V lockout recall software (25S65) has been released for all Mach-E's as of today. You can now schedule to have it installed at your dealer if you have a '21-24 vehicle. The update will take the technician about 30 minutes to apply. I've already installed the software on my car, and as expected:
  • The charging system will maintain 14.5V for 12 minutes after vehicle shutdown.
  • If the 12V battery were to fail while driving, the DC/DC converter will continue to provide power to the door latches through the 12-minute post-shutdown period, allowing unlock and entry/exit.
25S65_Software.png


After the update, you may notice the slight hum of a cooling pump running after driving and parking the car (if it's warm outside). This is normal, it is cooling the DC/DC converter producing the 12V power. If it's cool outside, the vehicle will be silent with no indications the 12V is actively charging. The high voltage system now stays energized during the 12-minute post-shutdown period. After 12 minutes have elapsed, you will hear two successive clunks, which are the main high voltage contactors in the HVBJB opening.

This update will also be beneficial if you drive many short trips (<10 minutes), because you will have additional 12V charging time after shutdown. This will help keep the 12V battery charged up, and covers the load of headlights, screens, and opening/closing doors during the post-shutdown period. Before, all those accessories would drain the 12V battery by about 5-10% after each shutdown.

One important service change—if you are replacing the 12V battery from now on, you will now need to wait at least 12 minutes after the vehicle is shut down before removing the battery terminals. The charging system will remain powered up (and may be silent). If you don't wait 12+ minutes, you could short out the DC/DC converter or blow a mega fuse if the positive cable touches ground, even after removing the negative terminal. Terminal voltage should be less than 13V before removal.
Interesting, this is how GM vehicles work, but they can actually keep the HVB live for up to 20 minutes in the heat (cooling the battery, inverters, converters and the motors as necessary). The GM owners manual has the same warning about checking the 12V level before disconnecting it.
 

Mike G

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I have a 12V LVB disconnect switch installed. This was intended to facilitate the 'hard reboot' scenario where the car has gotten itself 'logic locked' (or just plain stupid) and needs to be completely powered down for a "time out" until it comes back to it's senses and will behave.
Ford Mustang Mach-E 12V Recall (25S65) Software Released MME_Battery_Cutoff2

So when I press the remote to kill the LVB it will now take up to 12 minutes (from whenever I shut the car off with the Start/Stop button) for the car's 12V systems to de-energize. It's just something I'll have to keep in mind.
 


AZBill

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I have a 12V LVB disconnect switch installed. This was intended to facilitate the 'hard reboot' scenario where the car has gotten itself 'logic locked' (or just plain stupid) and needs to be completely powered down for a "time out" until it comes back to it's senses and will behave.
MME_Battery_Cutoff2.png

So when I press the remote to kill the LVB it will now take up to 12 minutes (from whenever I shut the car off with the Start/Stop button) for the car's 12V systems to de-energize. It's just something I'll have to keep in mind.
You probably do not want to use that switch while the battery is being charged. Make sure the voltage is below 14V before using that switch or disconnecting a cable.
 

Mike G

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You probably do not want to use that switch while the battery is being charged. Make sure the voltage is below 14V before using that switch or disconnecting a cable.
If the battery dies while the car is running around doing errands....and the DCDC converter is still providing power to the systems....does that harm anything?
 

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You mean like this?
Please show me where @Ford Motor Company posted any of @Mach-Lee ’s detail as to what the recall actually does.

In fact, that thread you link is the idiotic “FAQ” that was pretty much worthless, which prompted me to ask @Ford Motor Company…

@Ford Motor Company - your FAQ doesn’t say what this recall software update actually does or how it “fixes” the 12v battery issue. Can you elaborate?
 

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If the battery dies while the car is running around doing errands....and the DCDC converter is still providing power to the systems....does that harm anything?
I"m guessing not since the systems don't care where they're getting power from, just they are getting sufficient power. It's like when an ICE has a battery die while the engine is running. You don't really know when the battery died, just that you can't start it after shutting it off. Well, unless the power coming from the DC-DC converter is noisy/dirty (highly unlikely), which could cause signal corruption on comms lines. 🤷‍♂️🐩
 

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Personally, I'm not going to worry about it one way or another. If it comes over an OTA or they want to do it during a service check, I'm not going to try to stop it. But the "use case" of it being a problem in the first place is just too rare and even if it happened too minor for us to even care about.

We have no kids (and if we did and had to get in fast, I have no problem with breaking the window).

What's more the "use case" seems very rare.

Here is how I understand the situation. If I get any of this wrong, please feel free to correct me (Like that would stop anyone on here. :ROFLMAO:) .

With the 12V battery dead, the state of the locks can't be changed unless the car is on and powered by the HVB. So, if you have a dead 12v battery, turn off the car, and then try to lock the car it will not lock. You have to lock the car while the car is on with a dead 12V battery to get in trouble.

And the super capacitor will allow you to open the door up to about 20 times.

So, you must have a dead 12V battery, you must lock your car before turning it off, and you must have a person in the car that can't climb into the front and open the door.

I don't know about you, but I never lock my car before turning it off.

And that leads me to a situation I don't see anyone talking about, one that is sort of a tossup of it is good or bad.

You have the update, and the HVB stays connected for 12 minutes. That means that when you leave your car you will be able to lock it as normal, and when you come back after more than 12 minutes, you won't be able to get into the car. That is of course weighed against a thief getting in too. But with a dead 12V battery neither of you are going anywhere soon, so I guess it doesn't really matter.

And also leads me to a question. If the 12V battery is dead, why don't you get a message saying such? EDIT, I forgot there is a thread already stating that they did update the software to display a message if the 12V battery is getting to the point where you should change it "Check battery" message. So, with that, the need of this "fix" seems even less "needed".
 
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I'm Glad The fix is finaly out, but I wounder how much range is lost while the HVB and system is left on for 12 min? Does the fix and 12 min whait time shut off if the vehical is pluged in for charging?
 

ChrisO

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I'm Glad The fix is finaly out, but I wounder how much range is lost while the HVB and system is left on for 12 min? Does the fix and 12 min whait time shut off if the vehical is pluged in for charging?
My general observation is that the car doesn't drain the HVB very much at all when on provided you don't have the heater on, and to a lesser degree the air conditioning. And BTW I have noted that when is "Accessory mode" the air conditioning is reduce quite a bit, so it probably draws even less in that mode.

As for what it does when it is charging, the HVB has to be "connected" just to charge, and that includes it charge the 12V battery, so it doesn't seem to me that that is any different than it is currently working.
 

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The HV to LV converter will be active for 12 minutes after shutdown so the process of disconnecting the battery cannot start until 12 minutes after shut down.
The process I use for changing the 12V battery (one time so far!) is 1) shut down, 2) open hood and get various tools, 3) remove a bunch of plastic covers, 4) loosen the cross support bar over the battery and move it out of the way, 5) remove the battery hold down bar, 6) remove battery terminals, ... Steps 1-5 will take me about 12.5 minutes, so I am safe.
 

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I’ve read where disconnecting the 12v has been a remedy for several different glitches. Would you now need to have the car shut down for 12 minutes before doing that? I feel like this thread has that answer but I’m just not putting it together.
Yes, you would need to wait before disconnecting the 12V.
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