12V Recall (25S65) Software Released

HuntingPudel

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I thought taking off the plastic took at least 40 minutes by the amount of complaining. Now we can have a battery changed in 12 minutes!
LOL once you’ve had a little experience with the beauty covers it only takes a couple of minutes to remove them and the frunk tub. It takes me more time to place my beauty covers and frunk tub in a safe manner to prevent scratches and such than it does to R&R them. 🤷‍♂️🐩
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FYI for those taking their cars in for this — my dealership required holding the car for 48-72 hours for this update and the wire harness inspection. They originally told me it was because of post-update testing but in reality it was because it took them 3 days to even get to my car.

The update bricked my car and they couldn’t get it turned on. Thankfully Brian from Ford saw my post here and was helpful getting someone to reach out to the service center and resolve the issue. In all, they had my car for 8 days (including a weekend and Labor Day).

If your dealer offers a loaner car, take it. You might me out a car for a while!
 

swizzwell

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I hoping this will help me fix my bigger issue. I bought a used ‘21 that is stuck on software from 2023 and won’t take OTA updates any more. As it’s out of factory warranty all local dealers want over $1500 to manually update it. My hope is that they will be forced to in order to make this update work, or that this update unblocks the OTA updates too.
🤞
 

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took mine in on the 4th of this month and 2 hours later I was on my way with my MME updated. they also fixed the drivers side windshield washer which was spraying at the bottom of the windshield.
 


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I thought taking off the plastic took at least 40 minutes by the amount of complaining. Now we can have a battery changed in 12 minutes!
No it takes 40 minutes to put all the plastic cladding back on after you break several of the stupid little clips.

It takes about 13 minutes to disassemble the frunk enough to disconnect the LVB, which probably explains why Ford Engineering settled on 12 minutes. #SCIENCE.
 

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I hoping this will help me fix my bigger issue. I bought a used ‘21 that is stuck on software from 2023 and won’t take OTA updates any more. As it’s out of factory warranty all local dealers want over $1500 to manually update it. My hope is that they will be forced to in order to make this update work, or that this update unblocks the OTA updates too.
🤞
Keep us updated on how the dealer handles this.
 

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If the battery dies while the car is running around doing errands....and the DCDC converter is still providing power to the systems....does that harm anything?
The battery is acting like a capacitor, even if it is low, and you could potentially get a surge from the DC converter when you disconnect it. Might damage some other stuff. Why take a chance that could happen.
 
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Mach-Lee

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Who's gonna replace a 12-volt battery in 12 minutes after the car is shut off? Do people have pit crews in their homes? 😅 😄 🤣 😂
I can have the covers off and the frunk tub out in about 12 minutes. But the negative terminal could be disconnected after only removing the top cover (which only takes a minute or two to reach).

We all want to know if there will eventually be an OTA to fix this.
The answer is yes, eventually. Might be a number of months though. Their priority was getting the update out to dealers for the safety recall. If you carry small children or pets, I would get it done now.

I thought the little green switch disconnects the 12V from the DC/DC charger?
The little green switch is the high voltage disconnect and is only meant for emergency use or as part of a defined service procedure after high voltage de-energizing (such as dropping the high voltage pack). Do not open it when the high voltage is on because that could cause a voltage transient. Just wait the 12 minutes, don't mess with the green thing.

But on the other hand...I would tend to agree that now something will likely have to be included in FDRS module programming instructions (TSBs/SSMs, etc.) that will take into account that after you shut the vehicle off and leave the door ajar (currently those instructions say to do this for 10 minutes)...is it now gonna take even longer for that sort of procedure? I imagine there will be some sort of impact since the expectation that the car will go dormant after 10 minutes has likely now been changed to at least 12 minutes minimum.
Most of the modules still shut down at the 5 and 10 minute marks, so it might not affect the programming procedures much. But worst case we have to wait 12 minutes instead of 10.

I’ve read where disconnecting the 12v has been a remedy for several different glitches. Would you now need to have the car shut down for 12 minutes before doing that? I feel like this thread has that answer but I’m just not putting it together.
Correct, you will need to wait 12+ minutes before disconnecting the 12V battery now.

So, you must have a dead 12V battery, you must lock your car before turning it off, and you must have a person in the car that can't climb into the front and open the door.

I don't know about you, but I never lock my car before turning it off.

You have the update, and the HVB stays connected for 12 minutes. That means that when you leave your car you will be able to lock it as normal, and when you come back after more than 12 minutes, you won't be able to get into the car. That is of course weighed against a thief getting in too. But with a dead 12V battery neither of you are going anywhere soon, so I guess it doesn't really matter.

And also leads me to a question. If the 12V battery is dead, why don't you get a message saying such? EDIT, I forgot there is a thread already stating that they did update the software to display a message if the 12V battery is getting to the point where you should change it "Check battery" message. So, with that, the need of this "fix" seems even less "needed".
You are forgetting that the doors are automatically locked when you drive the car. So if the 12V fails right when you turn the car off (before you get out) the doors are still locked at that point. You will get out and not be able to get back in. Hence the issue that prompted the recall.

Yes, if the 12V has failed while driving (which is rare), you will have the 12 minutes to get out, after that the car will go completely dead. The new connected vehicle software that warns you when the 12V battery is going bad is also very relevant to preventing the situation. It's a multi-pronged approach that significantly reduces the likelihood of infants or pets being trapped.

I'm Glad The fix is finaly out, but I wounder how much range is lost while the HVB and system is left on for 12 min? Does the fix and 12 min whait time shut off if the vehical is pluged in for charging?
The car is only pulling a couple hundred watts during this time, so it would only take about 0.04 kWh or 0.05% of the pack. Essentially nothing. No range impact.

If the vehicle is plugged in and charging, then the 12V system is turned on. That hasn't changed at all, works the same.
 

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You are forgetting that the doors are automatically locked when you drive the car. So if the 12V fails right when you turn the car off (before you get out) the doors are still locked at that point. You will get out and not be able to get back in. Hence the issue that prompted the recall.
Yes, I forgot about the automatic locking!
Good point!
 

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Only took 20 minutes to get this done with FDRS, and looks like we can mark recalls complete in FDRS now. It reported "Software Update Status: Complete" this time instead of throwing an error last recall update I did.

Ford Mustang Mach-E 12V Recall (25S65) Software Released 1757285184020-do
 

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I can have the covers off and the frunk tub out in about 12 minutes. But the negative terminal could be disconnected after only removing the top cover (which only takes a minute or two to reach).



The answer is yes, eventually. Might be a number of months though. Their priority was getting the update out to dealers for the safety recall. If you carry small children or pets, I would get it done now.



The little green switch is the high voltage disconnect and is only meant for emergency use or as part of a defined service procedure after high voltage de-energizing (such as dropping the high voltage pack). Do not open it when the high voltage is on because that could cause a voltage transient. Just wait the 12 minutes, don't mess with the green thing.



Most of the modules still shut down at the 5 and 10 minute marks, so it might not affect the programming procedures much. But worst case we have to wait 12 minutes instead of 10.



Correct, you will need to wait 12+ minutes before disconnecting the 12V battery now.



You are forgetting that the doors are automatically locked when you drive the car. So if the 12V fails right when you turn the car off (before you get out) the doors are still locked at that point. You will get out and not be able to get back in. Hence the issue that prompted the recall.

Yes, if the 12V has failed while driving (which is rare), you will have the 12 minutes to get out, after that the car will go completely dead. The new connected vehicle software that warns you when the 12V battery is going bad is also very relevant to preventing the situation. It's a multi-pronged approach that significantly reduces the likelihood of infants or pets being trapped.



The car is only pulling a couple hundred watts during this time, so it would only take about 0.04 kWh or 0.05% of the pack. Essentially nothing. No range impact.

If the vehicle is plugged in and charging, then the 12V system is turned on. That hasn't changed at all, works the same.
Thanks very much.
 

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I hoping this will help me fix my bigger issue. I bought a used ‘21 that is stuck on software from 2023 and won’t take OTA updates any more. As it’s out of factory warranty all local dealers want over $1500 to manually update it. My hope is that they will be forced to in order to make this update work, or that this update unblocks the OTA updates too.
🤞
Unlikely that the powertrain and on-board charging modules will fix gateway issues. You are likely better off in seeing if someone local has an FDRS rig who can help reprogram everything or putting together an FDRS rig yourself and doing all of the updates yourself. It's pretty rare for a full suite of updates to not fix this kind of issue, but there have been a couple of people who have had to have an APIM, TCU, or GWM replaced in order to start receiving updates again. 🤔🐩
 

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FYI for those taking their cars in for this — my dealership required holding the car for 48-72 hours for this update and the wire harness inspection. They originally told me it was because of post-update testing but in reality it was because it took them 3 days to even get to my car.

The update bricked my car and they couldn’t get it turned on. Thankfully Brian from Ford saw my post here and was helpful getting someone to reach out to the service center and resolve the issue. In all, they had my car for 8 days (including a weekend and Labor Day).

If your dealer offers a loaner car, take it. You might me out a car for a while!
Yikes!!! I didn't realize 2025's also needed the fix. I've got a 2024 but will likely wait for the OTA or at the very least give the dealer more time to learn the ropes. It would be a real bite to have a dealer "hold" my car for more than 4 hours.
 

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One important service change—if you are replacing the 12V battery from now on, you will now need to wait at least 12 minutes after the vehicle is shut down before removing the battery terminals. The charging system will remain powered up (and may be silent). The same is true if you are removing a terminal to do a 12V reset. If you don't wait 12+ minutes, you could short out the DC/DC converter or blow a mega fuse if the positive cable touches ground, even after removing the negative terminal. Terminal voltage should be less than 13V before removal.
Good lord. Feel like a laminated disclaimer needs to be screwed into the hood...
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