2022 v. 2025: Differences?

[devmach-e]

Not to derail the thread, but just curious if I’m doing it all wrong when it comes to car ownership. When I buy a car, I pay it off fast and keep it for a long time. So, my math is pretty simple on my First Edition… I think I paid about 52k out the door after tax credit. It was on Ford Options but I paid the whole thing off before Options ended, so basically 0% interest loan. I’ve owned it for five years and I’ll likely keep it another three, after which I’ll either sell it for maybe $12k or gift to one of my kids. Either way, I credit that value back to me so i basically spent $40k to drive a car for 8 years. $5,000 a year or $417/mo.

So how would perpetually leasing a Mach E (or comparable) compare?

You are not doing it wrong. You do the same as me: keep the car as long as possible and then pass it on to a family member for cheap/free. If the car still performs the same now as it did 5-years ago, and there's not been a lot of updates and upgrades since you bought it, there's little reason to upgrade and restart the debt cycle. A heat pump might be of use in a colder climate like Chicago, if you don't mind the hit to the frunk capacity.

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[Ford_orr]

You are not doing it wrong. You do the same as me: keep the car as long as possible and then pass it on to a family member for cheap/free. If the car still performs the same now as it did 5-years ago, and there's not been a lot of updates and upgrades since you bought it, there's little reason to upgrade and restart the debt cycle. A heat pump might be of use in a colder climate like Chicago, if you don't mind the hit to the frunk capacity.

I'll take it a step further. With my last car, which was well past the warranty period, I started adding up the out-of-pocket repairs and dividing it by 12 to get a ballpark number of what I was paying monthly to keep Ole Yeller alive. Once the average monthly costs in repairs seemed to be more than what a new car payment would be, I made the switch. That's how I ended up owning a VW Golf for 21 years and why I have (at the time of purchase) a brand new Mach. I will also drive this car until the wheels fall off. Not sure I'll get 21 years out of it, but I'm gonna try my damnedest haha

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

@Mach-E VLOG just did a video on this

Huh. I missed this video, apparently anyway. Bad kitty! Bad!

 

[devmach-e]

I'll take it a step further. With my last car, which was well past the warranty period, I started adding up the out-of-pocket repairs and dividing it by 12 to get a ballpark number of what I was paying monthly to keep Ole Yeller alive. Once the average monthly costs in repairs seemed to be more than what a new car payment would be, I made the switch. That's how I ended up owning a VW Golf for 21 years and why I have (at the time of purchase) a brand new Mach. I will also drive this car until the wheels fall off. Not sure I'll get 21 years out of it, but I'm gonna try my damnedest haha

Same here. I just put $3600 into our Highlander (necessary maintenance, plus about $2500 to replace the front axles). I figure if I get another year of use out of the car (or more), I'm way ahead than trying to buy something to replace it.

That said, I do typically upgrade/replace after about 10 to 12 years regardless of the condition of the previous vehicle because there's usually been a lifestyle change that warrants it, plus significant new creature comforts and better safety features in the new car versus the older one. No one factor goes into the decision matrix to replace the current vehicle.

 

[Xweb]

We have both a 2022 and a 2025 Premium.

How is the ride between the 2? Is the 2025 less bouncy?

 

[RonOinAZ]

How is the ride between the 2? Is the 2025 less bouncy?

I can say that the 2025 (RWD & standard battery) feels smooth and light on the road but I can't say that I have found the 2022 (AWD & extended) to be bouncy. All of my driving is in town so maybe I've not experienced the combination of speed & road condition that results in the bouncy ride so many people have talked about.

 

[rolltide]

I can say that the 2025 (RWD & standard battery) feels smooth and light on the road but I can't say that I have found the 2022 (AWD & extended) to be bouncy. All of my driving is in town so maybe I've not experienced the combination of speed & road condition that results in the bouncy ride so many people have talked about.

What made you decide to go from AWD ER to RWD SR?

 

[RonOinAZ]

What made you decide to go from AWD ER to RWD SR?

The price. The 2025 was still in transit when it was advertised with $10,656 in discounts, reducing the MSRP from $45,485 to $35817, including $899 of unavoidable dealer add-ons.

Having driven the 2025 for a couple of months now, I don't know that I'd opt for AWD if I were to buy another. The climate where I live doesn't justify the cost and the RWD model is snappy; it has plenty of power for my needs. Plus, it's nice watching the battery not drain as quickly.

 

[GlennMacC]

I did exactly that in June 2025. I got $27,500 for the trade (2021 Premium AWD SR) and paid $48k out the door for the 2025 (Premium AWD ER). $20k out of pocket. I paid $42k for the previous car (net after rebate). So the first car was about $5,000/year. This one I expect to hold on to this one longer as I really love the car. I'm guessing I could have paid a bit less monthly with a lease, but I did not want the mileage restriction (even though I don't drive that much) and it was just easier to buy it outright. The 2025 does not get the rebate of course, so the math is a bit worse.

I did this because wanted the extended range this time, but I also do like the Magenta better than the blue gray previously.

If you trade in, ask them to give you the old trunk cover and floor mats. Mine did not come with either, but the dealer let me have the old ones, which work fine.

Glenn

I actually have never thought about trading my 22 premium ER AWD in? I purchased mine with cash and can purchase another one w/o a loan. Mine is flawless with 22 k miles. If I were to purchase a similar 25 to what I own now, what difference would you guess that I would need to pay?

 

[Jerrytball]

Tilting headrests are gone. Windshield wiper deicer is gone, washer on front camera also. Kick to open is gone. Ventilated seats are added, rear motor is now from the Lightning. Heat pump is added.

Per Mark Boris going from a 2021 GTPE to a 2024 GT:

1. Rear cargo hold down rings are plastic instead of metal
2. Driver/passenger kick plates no longer have an aluminum "Mustang/GT" plaque
3. Dual USB-C ports at the console rear instead of one USB-C and USB-A
4. Front Driver/Passenger doors no longer have a lock actuator (presenter)
5. Removed kick to open liftgate feature
6. Eliminated the inside illuminated open/close button on the liftgate panel
7. Rear speaker grills no longer have a B&O emblem
8. Removed the windshield wiper defrosters
9. Removed hood bump stops
10. Removed parking assist feature
11. Ceiling grab handles no longer damped, when released, they snap up quickly
12. Front camera through windshield has a white casing instead of black
13. High beams don't seem to be as bright as the ones in the '21 (low beams the same)
14. Front headrests on premium no longer tilt forward/backward
15. No more sound insulation padding behind door panels
16. Removed front grille camera washer
17. Cargo cover has slightly thicker support posts, more difficult to attach and remove
18. Shark fin antenna on roof no longer on a separate metal area by itself
19. Wireless charger is a separate metal plate within the plastic console bottom
20. Front proximity sensor beep has a higher pitch tone than rear proximity sensor beep
21. Now comes with a full printed owners manual
22. Start/Stop button no longer has a flashing green LED
23. Front side windows are no longer acoustic (laminated) after July '24
24. Frunk tub is lighter, has half the screws securing it and they‘re exposed
25.There are three things about the audio system that I've noticed
(a) The overall volume is at least 2db louder for any given volume control setting
(b) Dash tweeters sound more harsh in their lower frequency range
(c) The OEM 6x9 woofer bass frequencies sound deeper but it has an mis match of time alignment. It hits after the door speakers so a single kick drum almost sounds like two kick drums hit.
After removing the rear quarter panel to access wires I needed to install my aftermarket sub, I noticed the B&O amp is a different shape and it is also a larger than the previous one.

Wow, after reading that it sounds like if you have a older low mileage, it’s not worth getting rid of. I could be wrong here.

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Wow, after reading that it sounds like if you have a older low mileage, it’s not worth getting rid of. I could be wrong here.

The Mach-e no longer tops my list of cars when it comes time to replace my 21. @RickMachE’s list explains most of the rationale quite succinctly.

 

[RickMachE]

We were briefly considering giving our son our 2022, and buying a 2025, to help him out. I decided that due to all the feature deletes and changes, I don't want to do that.

Our current plan is to drive the Mach-E into 2027 and then get rid of it for maybe a Rivian R2. And then maybe in 2028 get rid of the Lightning and get a Rivian R1S.

I expect no "refresh" of the Mach-E, it will be produced in 2028 and then be done.

 

[rolltide]

The Mach-e no longer tops my list of cars when it comes time to replace my 21. @RickMachE’s list explains most of the rationale quite succinctly.

What is on your list?

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

We were briefly considering giving our son our 2022, and buying a 2025, to help him out. I decided that due to all the feature deletes and changes, I don't want to do that.

Our current plan is to drive the Mach-E into 2027 and then get rid of it for maybe a Rivian R2. And then maybe in 2028 get rid of the Lightning and get a Rivian R1S.

I expect no "refresh" of the Mach-E, it will be produced in 2028 and then be done.

I think you’re being optimistic there Rick. I don’t think it’ll make it to 2028 if the UEV platform achieves anything remotely resembling success. Ford loses too much money on these for it to continue indefinitely.

 

[RickMachE]

I think you’re being optimistic there Rick. I don’t think it’ll make it to 2028 if the UEV platform achieves anything remotely resembling success. Ford loses too much money on these for it to continue indefinitely.

Could be. My point is they'll kill it off, and they have no replacement I want.

We had the plan of buying the Explorer EV last year, and T3 this year or next. Ford killed all that. Nothing left of interest to us.

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