Are FDRS updates that easy

Homestead

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That’s a battery charger not a power supply, and 10 amps isn’t nearly enough. You’re going to be risking bricking your modules a lot there. The longer updates will definitely fail since they can draw 45 amps.
Does the DC-to-DC converter supply any current during the updates?
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HuntingPudel

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I'm feeling saucy today so I'll let everyone know how often my 10 amp charger fails updates. At 100% 12v SoC so feeling confident. Begin the roasting.

1000001334.jpg
You need a regulated supply, not a charger. Refulated supplies provide very even power, where chargers tend to not have nearly as good regulation and have much more line noise. These thing can corrupt the data being placed on the modules. Please get a supply rated for a minimum of 40A. ??
 

HuntingPudel

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Does the DC-to-DC converter supply any current during the updates?
Yes and no, mostly no. During the interruption of communication that happens while programming modules, the DC-DC converter often is not on line. ??
 

Mach-Lee

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Does the DC-to-DC converter supply any current during the updates?
Not usually. During a lot of the updates it's disabled so you need the 40A power supply. The DC/DC being active is dependent on which CAN networks need to be shut down to do the programming.
 

Homestead

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So if someone inadvertently bricks their car while using FDRS while updating a module will the problem be covered under warranty?
 


RickMachE

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So if someone inadvertently bricks their car while using FDRS while updating a module will the problem be covered under warranty?
If handled correctly, it should not be covered. You broke it.
 

Mach-Lee

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So if someone inadvertently bricks their car while using FDRS while updating a module will the problem be covered under warranty?
Depends, if you were doing everything according to service manual procedures then yes, but if you’re doing things wrong like not using a big enough power supply, then no.
 

Jimrpa

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At this point, I have given up with Ford dealer resistance to update the car. While I don’t plan on daily updates, I would like to check every three to six months and just update what needs to be updated.

I know there is an almost 300 page thread on FDRS. It’s not clear to me whether the first post is updated or whether I have to go through all 300 pages and piece it all together.

The plan is for the maintainer and interface linked below.

https://a.co/d/6BCvryv

https://a.co/d/08boBgM


Is it straightforward or is that wishful thinking. Your guidance is appreciated!
Sure. If you want to spend close to $1,000 for hardware and another $2,500 for an FDRS license (“weekend licenses are significantly less expensive”) to do work yourself that your dealer should be doing, then yep it’s that simple ?
 

rugedraw

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So if someone inadvertently bricks their car while using FDRS while updating a module will the problem be covered under warranty?
I have yet to come across an issue anyone had while updating with FDRS that the community has not been able to help resolve.
 

kdonnel

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Sure. If you want to spend close to $1,000 for hardware and another $2,500 for an FDRS license (“weekend licenses are significantly less expensive”) to do work yourself that your dealer should be doing, then yep it’s that simple ?
The license is nowhere near $2,500.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Are FDRS updates that easy Screenshot 2024-04-22 at 3.03.47 PM


And the hardware was not close to $1,000. I spent $130 on the power supply and $450 on the adapter. I think the adapter is now $100 more.

So $580 for the hardware and looking back I have spent $500 total on licenses in the past 25 months.

A total of $1080 in my 25 months of ownership. $540 a year.

A lot of people spend that or more on their hobbies each year.

I see a lot of value in applying the updates myself. I never am waiting for an OTA. I get to use features much sooner than the average owner. For example, I have been driving around with BC 1.4 for months.

Sure it would be nice if the dealer would apply updates on demand but even if they did it for free there is still my lost time dealing with the dealer. It will take hours longer to deal with the dealer than to apply the updates myself.

I don't see me using FDRS as being any different than someone spending $1000's a year on golf.
 

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<SNIP>
I don't see me using FDRS as being any different than someone spending $1000's a year on golf.
While I spent a little more on my power supply, I got my Mongoose Plus used and I bought a cheap used PC just for FDRS and FORscan, so my hard investment is just a bit more. I totally agree that popping for an FDRS license occasionally is something that is akin to an entertainment expense. I just look at it like I bought a really cheap shotgun and a few times a year I am paying range fees. ?‍♂?
 

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You need a regulated supply, not a charger. Refulated supplies provide very even power, where chargers tend to not have nearly as good regulation and have much more line noise. These thing can corrupt the data being placed on the modules. Please get a supply rated for a minimum of 40A. ??
Do you or anyone have links to a good 40amp 12v power supply? Im finding it hard to source one online because there are so many 12v power supplies for so many different applications. Thanks in advance!
 

rugedraw

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Do you or anyone have links to a good 40amp 12v power supply? Im finding it hard to source one online because there are so many 12v power supplies for so many different applications. Thanks in advance!
https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL3740-Intelligent-Charger/dp/B0C46ZJ7B1

Or you can do two of the ones you text me at the same time, but I think this is a better option for less than $40 more. This won't work as a trickle charger, though, but those are cheap if you think you'll be leaving you car sitting for a while often.
 

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Do you or anyone have links to a good 40amp 12v power supply? Im finding it hard to source one online because there are so many 12v power supplies for so many different applications. Thanks in advance!
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPB55NM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

paired with
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PBBQ1QY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had no issues with the IPMA/PSCM updates that took 3 hours. The voltage of my battery never moved during the update which registered as a steady 45 amp draw from the power supply.
 

Trax

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