Audio System Not Working

back_at_it_19

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This isn't the same problem but seems related so I will post it here.
I have been having trouble the last two days with Apple Car play not connecting to my iPhone. Today when I got in the car and pressed Start a LOUD, and I do mean ear piercing loud, screech came out of the sound system and then loud static came out of all the speakers and car play connected. The static didn't stop when I turned off the radio nor was it affected by the volume control. It didn't stop when I shut the car off either. I tried starting and stoping the car, turning off my phone and locking and unlocking the car... nothing. I had to drive 20 minutes like that. I got home, turned off the car, still crackling, and went inside. When I came out 20 minutes later it had stopped and everything is working. No clue whatsoever what to do. I did make a video of the noise though.
Fwiw my CarPlay issues resolved with apples last update. Haven’t heard the other issue before.
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jpblincoln

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No audio sound. I’ve owned the Mach E since March. I took it to the Ford dealer and they disconnected the 12v battery for 15 minutes and it fixed it.
 

p_haze

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Lost all sound today. Seems the short term solution is to unplug the 12v battery for 20 minutes. Is there a post that describes how to unplug the battery? I tried to search but didn't see anything directly describing this. Thanks.
 

AEtherScythe

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Our MME, which we took delivery of on 2/5 just started having this problem today.
Interesting symptoms are if we go into the audio settings, the Fade/Balance(LR) slider is all the way at the Cartesian X/Y 0,0 point meaning lower left. There is a reset button there that does nothing.
Attempting to change the Speed Compensation Volume settings does nothing.
It is showing stereo, even though my preference had previously been set to surround and it doesn't respond to any attempt to change the setting.

It's as if SYNC has lost the ability to interact with the sound system.
SYNC probably polls the user's last settings re: Fader/Balance(LR), Speed Compensation, and Stereo vs. Surround and it can't get a result so it puts the draggable fader/balancer in the lower left and none of the other settings work because it can't communicate with the actual audio system.

It was very late when we notice and we were dressed in suits so didn't want to fiddle with fuses, but we'll try that in the morning.

Tag: @TheVirtualTim
 

Shayne

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Our MME, which we took delivery of on 2/5 just started having this problem today.
Interesting symptoms are if we go into the audio settings, the Fade/Balance(LR) slider is all the way at the Cartesian X/Y 0,0 point meaning lower left. There is a reset button there that does nothing.
Attempting to change the Speed Compensation Volume settings does nothing.
It is showing stereo, even though my preference had previously been set to surround and it doesn't respond to any attempt to change the setting.

It's as if SYNC has lost the ability to interact with the sound system.
SYNC probably polls the user's last settings re: Fader/Balance(LR), Speed Compensation, and Stereo vs. Surround and it can't get a result so it puts the draggable fader/balancer in the lower left and none of the other settings work because it can't communicate with the actual audio system.

It was very late when we notice and we were dressed in suits so didn't want to fiddle with fuses, but we'll try that in the morning.

Tag: @TheVirtualTim
Bummer. Rebooted sync? Access with the fob not connected to a profile? Whack the side of the monitor really hard; LoL that would sometimes fix a CRT TV. I think you have the right @ the one that has provide constructive info into problems. Hoping that if it has a good sleep it will reset and wake up better.
 


TheVirtualTim

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Bummer. Rebooted sync? Access with the fob not connected to a profile? Whack the side of the monitor really hard; LoL that would sometimes fix a CRT TV. I think you have the right @ the one that has provide constructive info into problems. Hoping that if it has a good sleep it will reset and wake up better.
We reset Sync 4 twice (vol down + next-track button on the steering wheel for 10 seconds). After the reset, Sync 4 booted back up but the sound is still not working. (Tried radio, phone, & car play)
 

AEtherScythe

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I fixed it. I was a pain to get to the fuse box in the frunk, but fortunately, I didn't actually have to pull the fuse. I found a way to disengage the entire fuse assembly without actually removing any fuses. Here is a video of the solution.

How to Power-Cycle MME Electronics via Frunk Fuse "Hack" (e.g. to reset non-working audio/amplifier.
 

Shayne

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We reset Sync 4 twice (vol down + next-track button on the steering wheel for 10 seconds). After the reset, Sync 4 booted back up but the sound is still not working. (Tried radio, phone, & car play)
Your help I have seen here is noted and appreciated.
I fixed it. I was a pain to get to the fuse box in the frunk, but fortunately, I didn't actually have to pull the fuse. I found a way to disengage the entire fuse assembly without actually removing any fuses. Here is a video of the solution.

How to Power-Cycle MME Electronics via Frunk Fuse "Hack" (e.g. to reset non-working audio/amplifier.
So the fuse was not blown but you physically had to unplug it and plug it back in to reset it. Guess if that did not work you would need to check to see if the fuse was blown. I would presume Tim has this on his list and looking for an easier way to reset it than at the fuse box under the cowling. Great to hear you have audio again. Guess you had no phone nothing?

Edit: after the 12V and this maybe the answer is to make it just a bit easier to get in there?
 
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AEtherScythe

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So the fuse was not blown but you physically had to unplug it and plug it back in to reset it. Guess if that did not work you would need to check to see if the fuse was blown.
Right. Fuse not blown. DSP module was simply non-responsive and needed a power-cycle, and semi-ejecting the fuse assemblies was the easiest way that I found to effect a power-cycle.

Note that this is just a workaround for a software issue mentioned here:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...acm-or-dsp-dtc-u1084-u0237-and-or-u0238.5466/
 

Shayne

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Right. Fuse not blown. DSP module was simply non-responsive and needed a power-cycle, and semi-ejecting the fuse assemblies was the easiest way that I found to effect a power-cycle.

Note that this is just a workaround for a software issue mentioned here:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...acm-or-dsp-dtc-u1084-u0237-and-or-u0238.5466/
Workarounds are good ................ the 12V battery and that fuse box are not in an ideal location. I think as time goes on I may have some clips in the shop? How did the plastic removal/install go?
 

ITfarmer

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I’ve had no propulsion sound ever and have lost audio 3 times now. Previous times the dealer just unplugged the 12v battery for a minute. At a more competent dealer right now. They say there is a Ford recommended reset of the DSP which they have done. Still no propulsion sound, they took it back in.
I’m not convinced, we’ll just have to see.
 

AEtherScythe

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I’ve had no propulsion sound ever and have lost audio 3 times now. Previous times the dealer just unplugged the 12v battery for a minute. At a more competent dealer right now. They say there is a Ford recommended reset of the DSP which they have done. Still no propulsion sound, they took it back in.
I’m not convinced, we’ll just have to see.
Was the dealer unaware of the service bulletin mentioned above, here? Did they actually apply it for you?
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...acm-or-dsp-dtc-u1084-u0237-and-or-u0238.5466/

We're taking our MME in next Wednesday to have that fix applied and the well-known one for Phone as a Key (PaaK).
 

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Tone settings reset is a known issue. They will fix it with an OTA.
2 workarounds:
1. Switch profiles. Go to guest, then back to your profile. Your settings will be restored.
2. Disable all profile, and set the tone settings there. That will be the settings every time you turn on the car.
Just saw this; thanks. I assume yours now works, 100% no further issues?
 

p_haze

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I fixed it. I was a pain to get to the fuse box in the frunk, but fortunately, I didn't actually have to pull the fuse. I found a way to disengage the entire fuse assembly without actually removing any fuses. Here is a video of the solution.

How to Power-Cycle MME Electronics via Frunk Fuse "Hack" (e.g. to reset non-working audio/amplifier.
This worked for me! Thanks!
 

ITfarmer

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