Car lost connectivity so Ford Pass is useless. Fix?

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flyersfan023

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Many others may have said this already but I heard from Ford that you actually need to delete the FordPass app. Especially if you've updated to any new Ford pass app software the latest one caused the FordPass app not to update properly and you have to remove it physically from your iPhone and completely reinstall it and re-set up your phone has a key that solve the problem. The short story is uninstall the FordPass app on your iPhone, reinstall it delete your phone settings on the car and reset them up that should fix it according to Ford.
This was the first thing I did before even coming to the forum and unfortunately it only made the issue worse since the car itself wasn’t transmitting data. Pulling the fuse was the only thing that worked.
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Starscrean

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I had the same issue a couple months ago. Searched the forums and pulled, waited 10 min and reset the fuse at the bottom right red 25. The fuse box under the passenger seat. That reset the modem and got signal back.
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Bro thank you. I found this post. I wasn’t able to connect app or phones tried everything. You saved me a lot of time looking myself or a trip to the dealer. But main concern wasn’t how to fixed it. But why it happened in the first place.
 

rugedraw

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Bro thank you. I found this post. I wasn’t able to connect app or phones tried everything. You saved me a lot of time looking myself or a trip to the dealer. But main concern wasn’t how to fixed it. But why it happened in the first place.
These modules sometimes get locked up in a funky state. Rebooting them gives them a swift kick in the butt to get them going again.
 

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Given that the car is basically a computer on wheels it is surprising that there is not a switch to throw that will disconnect the battery to reboot easily. One should not have to take the frunk apart or crawl under the dash.
 

rugedraw

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Given that the car is basically a computer on wheels it is surprising that there is not a switch to throw that will disconnect the battery to reboot easily. One should not have to take the frunk apart or crawl under the dash.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2K7CV69?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

This thing is great. I have one in my truck and @Mike G put one in his Lightning, too....not sure if he did the same to his Mach-E, but this makes this very easy to accomplish.
 


EVEE-G

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Bro thank you. I found this post. I wasn’t able to connect app or phones tried everything. You saved me a lot of time looking myself or a trip to the dealer. But main concern wasn’t how to fixed it. But why it happened in the first place.
Glad it helped, that’s what we’re all here for. Just think of it as a computer, sometimes they need to be rebooted. There’s just not an easier way to do it. Only happened to mine once on my premium but now I upgraded to a GT, so far so good.
 

Mike G

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2K7CV69?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

This thing is great. I have one in my truck and @Mike G put one in his Lightning, too....not sure if he did the same to his Mach-E, but this makes this very easy to accomplish.
I did put one in the Mach-E.

That's where you really need one anyway.

On the Lightning you can open the doors, and manually open the frunk to get to the battery if it dies.

You can't even get into the car if the battery dies in a Mach-E.

On the question as to why the TCU stopped reporting. This has happened before and is sometimes caused by getting an OTA that leaves the gateway or TCU in a software state (like a 'loop' or just hung up) and only a reboot of the whole system will clear it out.

So installing one of those remote battery switches is the easiest way to do a 'reboot' if it becomes necessary.
 

HuntingPudel

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I’ve had it happen once in almost 4 years. The Mach-e is at the local dealer atm for the 3 recalls (Yes finally) and has been sitting for a while. We’ll see whether that becomes twice when it gets back.
Wait, the dealer is actually performing a recall? OMG! Maybe there is hope on your island. đŸ˜ŠđŸ©
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