Coming up on 3 years - replace 12V?

[Sikkun]

I better change the transmission as well, then, because that might also fail ?

You find me a source of brand new transmissions for $140 and I’ll gladly replace it every 3 years.

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[ARK]

Mine just died at the 3 year, 11 month mark. Some other thread talked about how to look up the voltage of the 12v battery on the Ford website. I did that a couple of days ago and it showed over 13 volts. I thought I was OK for the time being but it died on me today as I got into my car to leave a grocery store. Luckily, the door opened first before the 12v decided to die

AAA was able to jump it and I drove to a dealer. Though unfortunately cost me about $300 between the new battery and the labor.

 

[Randylahey]

Got a random plug in to maintain 12v battery error & electric range reduced last night after work. Drove it today with no issues but that jolted me enough to go grab a brand new one from Ford. $130 for peace of mind is a no-brainer.

 

[SteveMach-ee]

Mine just died at the 3 year, 11 month mark. Some other thread talked about how to look up the voltage of the 12v battery on the Ford website. I did that a couple of days ago and it showed over 13 volts. I thought I was OK for the time being but it died on me today as I got into my car to leave a grocery store. Luckily, the door opened first before the 12v decided to die

AAA was able to jump it and I drove to a dealer. Though unfortunately cost me about $300 between the new battery and the labor.

Yep, that does it, I'm going to live forever in infamy for starting that remote voltage lookup thread ?.

 

[Guss-E 2021]

Your dealer is ripping you off. I recently checked to have my '22 GTPE LVB replaced--$180 bucks including labor.

Recently checked where?

 

[Guss-E 2021]

Its schrödinger's battery, it both needs to be replaced and does not, and no one knows until you open the frunk liner and replace it.

If you proactively replace you are throwing away $$ as it would have lasted 7 years.

If you dont replace it will likely die within a month at the most inconvenient time.

And not being an ass, in the same boat. My car just did the BC 1.3 install which took 70min, on a cold night, not being charged with no issue. Going by that I am going to replace mine fall of 2025, car will be almost 4 years old by then.

Erik let me know where you have it done and for how much. I might make the drive if you have a good experience.

 

[socalh2oskier]

Recently checked where?

Two places--Peoria Ford and Surprise Ford. In Phoenix area.

 

[RSH]

I am having an interesting situation with the LVB. I took the MME in for other service and also asked that they check my LVB since I've had the car since April 2021, 34k miles. I dropped off the car Wednesday evening for Thursday scheduled service. Because technicians called in sick, blah blah blah, they did not start work on the car until the following Tuesday (?) so it sat unused in cold weather. That Tuesday morning, they apparently tested the LVB first thing in the morning and called me at 9 am saying the battery was testing at 250 (?) but should test at 380(?). They recommended immediate replacement at a cost of $425.
I called a Ford dealership 15 miles away who quoted $240-$250, so I told the current dealer not to replace the battery and just handle what it was there for. They stressed the need for immediate replacement of the LVB when I picked the car up.
The next day (today) I brought the car in for LVB replacement at the dealership 15 miles away. Their reading of the LVB shows the battery operating at 88% and don't understand why the first dealership recommended replacement. They also called the first dealership for an explanation.
Bottom line, the second dealership and I decided to go ahead and replace the battery since it apparently did read low previously (though we don't have clarity of the conditions under which it got that low reading). The second dealership even further reduced the price because of the confusion.
So, I replaced the LVB. Should I have?

 

[GrayWolf]

So, I replaced the LVB. Should I have?

Replacing the LVB on a 2021 is a good idea, IMO, even if it "tests fine today". I'll point to @MacherAWD's post for a great explanation that fits my thinking on the topic as well:

Its schrödinger's battery, it both needs to be replaced and does not, and no one knows until you open the frunk liner and replace it.

If you proactively replace you are throwing away $$ as it would have lasted 7 years.

If you dont replace it will likely die within a month at the most inconvenient time.

And not being an ass, in the same boat. My car just did the BC 1.3 install which took 70min, on a cold night, not being charged with no issue. Going by that I am going to replace mine fall of 2025, car will be almost 4 years old by then.

 

[mkhuffman]

I am having an interesting situation with the LVB. I took the MME in for other service and also asked that they check my LVB since I've had the car since April 2021, 34k miles. I dropped off the car Wednesday evening for Thursday scheduled service. Because technicians called in sick, blah blah blah, they did not start work on the car until the following Tuesday (?) so it sat unused in cold weather. That Tuesday morning, they apparently tested the LVB first thing in the morning and called me at 9 am saying the battery was testing at 250 (?) but should test at 380(?). They recommended immediate replacement at a cost of $425.
I called a Ford dealership 15 miles away who quoted $240-$250, so I told the current dealer not to replace the battery and just handle what it was there for. They stressed the need for immediate replacement of the LVB when I picked the car up.
The next day (today) I brought the car in for LVB replacement at the dealership 15 miles away. Their reading of the LVB shows the battery operating at 88% and don't understand why the first dealership recommended replacement. They also called the first dealership for an explanation.
Bottom line, the second dealership and I decided to go ahead and replace the battery since it apparently did read low previously (though we don't have clarity of the conditions under which it got that low reading). The second dealership even further reduced the price because of the confusion.
So, I replaced the LVB. Should I have?

Yes.

 

[RSH]

Replacing the LVB on a 2021 is a good idea, IMO, even if it "tests fine today". I'll point to @MacherAWD's post for a great explanation that fits my thinking on the topic as well:

Thank you!

 

[bbulkow]

I didn't see anyone share this video:



In it, the poster details how to change the battery without removing the entire tub, and how to use a slightly cheaper walmart battery.

I don't know if I'd go against the type rating from Ford, but I really liked the recommendation on how to get the battery in and out without removing the tub.

 

[bbulkow]

Caution - that will let you charge the battery at a slow rate, but it will not allow enough amps to start the car with a failed battery or shorted cell. The car can use power faster than you can feed it in through that small cable. This could result in the car boot looping. A high-amperage jump start would be required to overcome the situation.

From my perspective when faced with a failing 12V situation, that cable would be more useful to drain the 12V completely to get the frunk to open with a jump pack.

What amp @ 12v should we consider required to boot the car?

The battery is certainly rated at some amps, but I doubt the battery was spec'd at "just enough"....

And.... boot looping.... ha.

 

[66fastback]

The dealership quoted $399 for the new battery (inc. install) and $600 for "control module update and programming."
I don't mind paying for the new battery, but I would have liked to choose the date to get it replaced. As it happened, I had to have it towed in and then wait 4 days for the EV technician to look at it and now waiting for the replacement.
I elected NOT to pay for the update & programming. The warranty administrator advised that I may be able to wait and see if the update can be foreced by Ford OTA. Also said that this update states it is dealer recommended due to its lengthy process. It may fail OTA but you are welcome to try that option first.

Hope this info is helpful.

 

[66fastback]

Update: 3 weeks and still no car. Took the dealer a week to look at it (EV tech was sick) another week to order the battery (?) and in the third week they said I needed a new battery junction box, and now saying that the battery modules aren’t balancing.

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