SWO

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Also, I had no success programming the fob initially following the instructions. I dropped by the dealership to discuss something else and the service manager came out to the car and it was done in about 30 seconds. The issue was that the driver's door had to stay open. The instructions say to close the door.

When the programming is successful you'll see a brief message on the IPC about a security code or whatever and that's how you know it took.
The security code comes up after the process is done with 2 keys - that's how you find your code if you lose the card. You will get a message saying the key was successfully programmed after the process is complete.

I don't think the door has anything to do with it. Usually the problem is the fob being oriented wrong, or exceeding the 5sec in between keys.
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Avelli

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So door opened/closed may or may not affect it.

How about start (foot on brake) vs accessory power (pressing start without touching the brake)?

I did get the 5-digit code one time with key 2, but it still failed to program key 3 (blank key).
 

Avelli

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Success!

You do not have to press the brake. Accessory mode will work.

I had the door opened, not that I think it mattered.

What I did was removed all the batteries except for the new remote. I also left the backing off, to make sure I maximized the signal strength to the transmitter/receiver, and removed the metal blade.

What seemed to do the trick was the orientation. The instructions say to have the buttons facing the rear, and the key blade opening facing up. When I inverted it (so buttons faced the rear hatch, but the key fob facing down), it worked with what I would consider a reliable signal. This also seems to make more sense (to some degree) as the cutout is formed to the wider key fob dimensions, resulting in a tighter fit.

Timing-wise, I waited a few seconds between each step, not the requisite 5-10 seconds per the instructions.

Thank you all!
 

JohnFoxeSheets

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Success!

You do not have to press the brake. Accessory mode will work.

I had the door opened, not that I think it mattered.

What I did was removed all the batteries except for the new remote. I also left the backing off, to make sure I maximized the signal strength to the transmitter/receiver, and removed the metal blade.

What seemed to do the trick was the orientation. The instructions say to have the buttons facing the rear, and the key blade opening facing up. When I inverted it (so buttons faced the rear hatch, but the key fob facing down), it worked with what I would consider a reliable signal. This also seems to make more sense (to some degree) as the cutout is formed to the wider key fob dimensions, resulting in a tighter fit.

Timing-wise, I waited a few seconds between each step, not the requisite 5-10 seconds per the instructions.

Thank you all!
Took me a bunch of tries, lots of failures, but finally got it to work. I think turning off Easy Entry/Exit made a difference. I also completed the programming with the driver door open, but all batteries were installed. And I put my PaaK phone into airplane mode. Not sure which of the above was the magical combination, but it's so nice to have a frunk button now!
 
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Earplug

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Went to the dealer today to order a new key fob. They cannot find it by the part numbers from the OP. 164R8304

And, if I go to parts.ford.com it says that the part - "Part searched may be obsolete or invalid. Please contact your dealer."

So where can I find it?
 

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I ordered the shell with the back hatch button from Amazon. Unfortunately the tolerancing was a little off, so that the button would not fit in the Lightning holder, as the button was too big and would jam. Even swapping out the whole button cover array didn't work; the button frame from the Amazon part was a bit large, and although it looked OK, the hand-feel was off. I could feel a ridge where the button frame met the case, and the center round "Lock" button was too pronounced compared to the OG.
 

Lynsey

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I just ordered mine from a dealer. Gonna use my Ford Pass points. What would happen if I just had the dealer program it? Can they do it? Or does it have to be done with the other fobs.
 

generaltso

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I just ordered mine from a dealer. Gonna use my Ford Pass points. What would happen if I just had the dealer program it? Can they do it? Or does it have to be done with the other fobs.
Sure, they can do it. But would you rather pay a dealer $100+ to do it or do it yourself in 3 minutes or less? It takes no technical skill or special tools as long as you already have 2 fobs.
 

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I purchased a Lightning key fob (PN NL3T-15K601-EC or Ford 164R8304) and using the two key fobs I already had programmed, I followed the instructions from the owner's manual (found also here ) and now have a key fob with a working frunk button.
Another confirmation this works if you have your Frunk release enabled.

Doors closed. No brake pedal. Be sure to wait as instructed for final step.

Sheehy Ford Parts guys in Gaithersburg, Md were patient with me and with perseverance found the part at Rotunda although it didn’t pop up automatically, even when using a Lightning VIN.

They ordered a couple extra if you are in DC Metro and are looking. The battery in the new unit [dated 8/24/22] was not healthy. Swapped it out before my pairing attempt.
 

su-ch+mache

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where do I have to go to in the menue in order to enable the Frunk release?
Sorry my Pony is still on its way to me.
 

Lynsey

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Ok, took me two tries, but worked perfect. Accessory mode and door open. I used my points to buy it, but they were gonna charge me $189 to program it. It legit took me 3 mins.
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