Eibach Sway bars now avalable for the Mach E

[markboris]

That's what I would end up doing. It's too bad they didn't make the rear adjustable as well.

Jared at Eibach told me the reason they didn't make the rear bar adjustable is they didn't have the room to lengthen it properly. While the Steeda rear bar is adjustable, it is not without issues like some have had. When the rear of the car is loaded down the bar can contact the body. I've had this issue along with Erik, Mike and others. I don't think the length of the bar has much to do with that but who knows.

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[HuntingPudel]

Most OEMs set up their cars with a bit of understeer. An engineer I used to know described understeer where the driver is scared and oversteer where the passenger is scared. The OEMs set up their cars so the driver is scared so as to make the drivers not drive so hard. Eibach seems to maybe tuning that way. ??

This can be remedied or reduced in a number of ways. Softening up the front bar is one (change the end links to the softer hole, mount the front bar in softer frame bushings, etc). Putting the rear bar in pillow blocks is another. Changing the rear bump steer can tune a little of it out. De-clambering the front suspension will help at the cost of making the front tires wear on their inboard edges under straight ahead conditions. ??

That said, Mark is running wider rear tires than fronts. This will make the car want to understeer a bit. Mark probably needs either to stiffen the rear up or soften the front just because of that. I’m guessing that a square tire setup would still exhibit this condition, only to a lesser degree. ??

 

[markboris]

Most OEMs set up their cars with a bit of understeer. An engineer I used to know described understeer where the driver is scared and oversteer where the passenger is scared. The OEMs set up their cars so the driver is scared so as to make the drivers not drive so hard. Eibach seems to maybe tuning that way. ??

This can be remedied or reduced in a number of ways. Softening up the front bar is one (change the end links to the softer hole, mount the front bar in softer frame bushings, etc). Putting the rear bar in pillow blocks is another. Changing the rear bump steer can tune a little of it out. De-clambering the front suspension will help at the cost of making the front tires wear on their inboard edges under straight ahead conditions. ??

That said, Mark is running wider rear tires than fronts. This will make the car want to understeer a bit. Mark probably needs either to stiffen the rear up or soften the front just because of that. I’m guessing that a square tire setup would still exhibit this condition, only to a lesser degree. ??

Next time I am down that way Steve, you can drive the car and tell me what you would do. I don't push it really hard and just like the flat handling and responsive steering I am getting right now out of the front. I really think the rear is very similar to what the Steeda was. It's just that the front is now a bit more flat. If after you drive it and you think the front should be changed to the softer setting then I can try that. Like I said many times before, I am not a suspension expert at all but I do like a car to handle the mountain roads I drive as good as I can get it too. Both the Steeda and Eibach bars have greatly improved on this. The best mod this car can get.

 

[kennethjk]

After the Konis come in and installed I will check to see if the rear Steeda has been rubbing against other parts. If so, on to the next project, Eibach front and rear.

 

[azerik]

Mark, I’m thinking you’d need to check the scrub area on the tires after running it hard. I’m thinking the stiffest hole might be great for a track (where the car is level most of the time) but not so good when you need the front corner to compress some. Or the front tire pressure is too low so it's crossing the scrub. (Tiny little triangles on the edge of the tread point to optimum contact)

My bar came in, waiting for grease which should be here today, hopefully get it swapped tonight, if not tomorrow sometime.

Also finally got a chance in a GTPE and I'm sold. I shoulda waited to get one. Hillariousness of it is the dealer still throwing $10k ADM on it.freaking $82k GTFO I'll 'grab' a used one when I get the chance. If I don't come to my senses first.

 

[BMT1071]

Mark, I’m thinking you’d need to check the scrub area on the tires after running it hard. I’m thinking the stiffest hole might be great for a track (where the car is level most of the time) but not so good when you need the front corner to compress some. Or the front tire pressure is too low so it's crossing the scrub. (Tiny little triangles on the edge of the tread point to optimum contact)

My bar came in, waiting for grease which should be here today, hopefully get it swapped tonight, if not tomorrow sometime.

Also finally got a chance in a GTPE and I'm sold. I shoulda waited to get one. Hillariousness of it is the dealer still throwing $10k ADM on it.freaking $82k GTFO I'll 'grab' a used one when I get the chance. If I don't come to my senses first.

Is it a dealer in the Valley?

 

[HuntingPudel]

Mark, I’m thinking you’d need to check the scrub area on the tires after running it hard. I’m thinking the stiffest hole might be great for a track (where the car is level most of the time) but not so good when you need the front corner to compress some. Or the front tire pressure is too low so it's crossing the scrub. (Tiny little triangles on the edge of the tread point to optimum contact)

My bar came in, waiting for grease which should be here today, hopefully get it swapped tonight, if not tomorrow sometime.

Also finally got a chance in a GTPE and I'm sold. I shoulda waited to get one. Hillariousness of it is the dealer still throwing $10k ADM on it.freaking $82k GTFO I'll 'grab' a used one when I get the chance. If I don't come to my senses first.

Yes! Find a low mileage used one. ??

 

[markboris]

Mark, I’m thinking you’d need to check the scrub area on the tires after running it hard. I’m thinking the stiffest hole might be great for a track (where the car is level most of the time) but not so good when you need the front corner to compress some. Or the front tire pressure is too low so it's crossing the scrub. (Tiny little triangles on the edge of the tread point to optimum contact)

I'll check but will have to wait until after the 18th when I return from Europe. I do run my front tires at 37 since they are 255's instead of 245's but I have never had them make squeal noises before. I'll let you know what I find after I return home which they will have more than 450 miles on them after installing the Eibach's.

 

[azerik]

I'll check but will have to wait until after the 18th when I return from Europe. I do run my front tires at 37 since they are 255's instead of 245's but I have never had them make squeal noises before. I'll let you know what I find after I return home which they will have more than 450 miles on them after installing the Eibach's.

track trick is to chalk the scrub line area above and below the triangles on all 4. Then go out and run it. Ideally you'd only rub the chalk off just to the tip of the triangle. This is on flat tracks. Depending on that curve you might not be able to get it 'perfect'. This bar could hold the tire flatter not letting the front (or rear) squash enough to keep full contact patch causing it to scrub to the side wall. Air pressure could work, or lightening the bar.

Yay grease just arrived.

 

[azerik]

Yes! Find a low mileage used one. ??

Oh I found a 21 here. But someone's trying to talk them out of selling it for that price. I have 4 GPTE's 21/22's with 9 to 29k on them for $42k~$47k in Phoenix currently. Or you know, a 23 for $82k lolololololhahahaha

Interestingly it looked like the GTPE (MArch 23 build) I drove was pre 4.2.6. I dind't bother with BC as it was suspension and seat testing only. Oddly the seats ARE cooler than my Premiums. But wide enough I don't get kidney punched in them.

 

[azerik]

Verdict: Buy it.
Yes it's stiffer than the Steeda by a bit. I run my rear Steeda bar at it's softest, the Eibach front at it's softest. The front is flat even on the softest setting. Remember I have a Premium AWD ER. I over drive the stock Conti's as the ass is now drifty. (Due to the back being soft the front is currently understeering) I'll probably have to set the Steeda rear to the stiffest setting to flatten the whole car about the same. i like tail happy but the back is now squatting (Again up the setting and it'll be flatter) I might just replace the rear with the Eibach as well as it's VERY well built in the proper places. Not a bit of slop at all and the bar actually moves up and down without slop.

Now for the interesting bits.
A LOT of the noise from my front end is gone. Like wow gone. The tires over these little expansion joints used to echo through the cabin. I could also feel every joint and manhole cover in the steering wheel. So much of the vibration is gone I'm confused. Even the ever slight vibration from my warped rotors doesn't reflect as strongly in the steering wheel any more. I drove a GTPE today and after that realized I'd been living with terribly stiff front end. I think the hollow bar helps in not transferring the tire shock vibration from one side of the car to the other. I need to put some more miles on it but so far it's so very much better it's funny. Even the road noise is down massivly. Swapping back to the stock endlinks is probably helping quite a bit as well. This is fully livable. I'm so far very pleased.

BTW it’s a tight fit to the a arm but massive clearance for the half shafts and no chance of it hitting the tie rods

 

[tuminatr]

Mark, I’m thinking you’d need to check the scrub area on the tires after running it hard. I’m thinking the stiffest hole might be great for a track (where the car is level most of the time) but not so good when you need the front corner to compress some. Or the front tire pressure is too low so it's crossing the scrub. (Tiny little triangles on the edge of the tread point to optimum contact)

My bar came in, waiting for grease which should be here today, hopefully get it swapped tonight, if not tomorrow sometime.

Also finally got a chance in a GTPE and I'm sold. I shoulda waited to get one. Hillariousness of it is the dealer still throwing $10k ADM on it.freaking $82k GTFO I'll 'grab' a used one when I get the chance. If I don't come to my senses first.

Good plan on the used, that is what I did. Deals are out there check out this 12k mile for $42,900 . This one would probably be too much of a drive though. It even has BC and Glass roof

https://www.villagepointetoyota.com...g+Mach-E-51da741e0a0e0a9a7b473b1255d2bb2e.htm

 

[markboris]

Verdict: Buy it.
Yes it's stiffer than the Steeda by a bit. I run my rear Steeda bar at it's softest, the Eibach front at it's softest. The front is flat even on the softest setting. Remember I have a Premium AWD ER. I over drive the stock Conti's as the ass is now drifty. (Due to the back being soft the front is currently understeering) I'll probably have to set the Steeda rear to the stiffest setting to flatten the whole car about the same. i like tail happy but the back is now squatting (Again up the setting and it'll be flatter) I might just replace the rear with the Eibach as well as it's VERY well built in the proper places. Not a bit of slop at all and the bar actually moves up and down without slop.

Now for the interesting bits.
A LOT of the noise from my front end is gone. Like wow gone. The tires over these little expansion joints used to echo through the cabin. I could also feel every joint and manhole cover in the steering wheel. So much of the vibration is gone I'm confused. Even the ever slight vibration from my warped rotors doesn't reflect as strongly in the steering wheel any more. I drove a GTPE today and after that realized I'd been living with terribly stiff front end. I think the hollow bar helps in not transferring the tire shock vibration from one side of the car to the other. I need to put some more miles on it but so far it's so very much better it's funny. Even the road noise is down massivly. Swapping back to the stock endlinks is probably helping quite a bit as well. This is fully livable. I'm so far very pleased.

BTW it’s a tight fit to the a arm but massive clearance for the half shafts and no chance of it hitting the tie rods

Erik, couple of things, from the photo above, are you sure you have the correct nut on the lower end of that end link? On the front end links, there are two different length nuts used. The longer nuts go on the top, the shorter nuts on the bottom. I can't tell exactly but looks like you have the longer nut on the bottom which does not allow the threads of the end link to protrude past the nut as they should.

About the noise, I thought I was noticing it may have been a bit quieter but was hard to tell so I did not mention it when I commented on these Eibach bars with the OEM end links. I daily drive over some rough roads going to and from my home and noise is very noticeable on both of my cars when I change any suspension parts or tires. My Mach-E is heavily sound deadened and I am running very quiet tires so was hard to tell but thought it may have been a bit quieter. Didn't know running a hollow bar would make any difference in sound but good to know if it does. I was told by Eibach the OEM end links would be quieter than the Steeda spherical's (and I even had them on the rear) but again, barely noticed any difference in the noise.

Like you, for the short time I have driven my car, I am also very pleased with both of these bars.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Hmmm... decisions, decisions...

What I dislike about Steeda stuff overall (three cars' worth so far) is their uneven or sometimes plain inadequate attention to detail on the finishing stuff. For example, paint flaking off, to include my current Steeda sway bars. I've also had one of their (non-Mach E) stainless steel braided brake lines fail.

This, compared to the Eibach fit & finish, just might persuade me to switch.

 

[kennethjk]

Verdict: Buy it.
Yes it's stiffer than the Steeda by a bit. I run my rear Steeda bar at it's softest, the Eibach front at it's softest. The front is flat even on the softest setting. Remember I have a Premium AWD ER. I over drive the stock Conti's as the ass is now drifty. (Due to the back being soft the front is currently understeering) I'll probably have to set the Steeda rear to the stiffest setting to flatten the whole car about the same. i like tail happy but the back is now squatting (Again up the setting and it'll be flatter) I might just replace the rear with the Eibach as well as it's VERY well built in the proper places. Not a bit of slop at all and the bar actually moves up and down without slop.

Now for the interesting bits.
A LOT of the noise from my front end is gone. Like wow gone. The tires over these little expansion joints used to echo through the cabin. I could also feel every joint and manhole cover in the steering wheel. So much of the vibration is gone I'm confused. Even the ever slight vibration from my warped rotors doesn't reflect as strongly in the steering wheel any more. I drove a GTPE today and after that realized I'd been living with terribly stiff front end. I think the hollow bar helps in not transferring the tire shock vibration from one side of the car to the other. I need to put some more miles on it but so far it's so very much better it's funny. Even the road noise is down massivly. Swapping back to the stock endlinks is probably helping quite a bit as well. This is fully livable. I'm so far very pleased.

BTW it’s a tight fit to the a arm but massive clearance for the half shafts and no chance of it hitting the tie rods

I have same MME as you , different tires but curious if swapping out the back Steeda makes a difference If I get front Eibachs


I only have the Steeda in the rear at it’s softest setting (original Michelins) and never went with the front Steeda due to some of the issues mentioned here.

don’t drive the car very hard due to HVBJB and skinny tires.

thanks for the work and comments.

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