Eibach Sway bars now avalable for the Mach E

[Electric Goat]

Does anyone else experience occasional clunking with the eibach sways? I have front and rear installed and both clunk occasionally

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[azerik]

Yep. No where like the Steeda’s though. The bar clamps need to be pushed against the washers when being tightened down, with both wheels off the ground. If you try to do one side there is torsional pressure which you won’t be able to over come. Ideally you wouldn’t have the endlinks attached either, but no one wants to go that far. Mine lasted a good 6 months before I heard the random clink, usually over a pot hole. It’s possible just more grease would help. I havnt greased mine since installed. It’s one of the things I’m going to eye shortly when the wheels come off.

 

[mkhuffman]

Does anyone else experience occasional clunking with the eibach sways? I have front and rear installed and both clunk occasionally

I heard some initially, but for some reason the sounds have gone away. It is as quiet as stock, I think. It has been a very long time since I had the stock bars. LOL.

 

[tuminatr]

I just swapped out my front Steeda bar for Eibach, and I am a little surprised at how big of a difference there is between them.

The Eibach is much smoother I will qualify that with the bushings on my Steeda had gone dry and were binding. One huge advantage to the Eibach is it has zerk fittings and can be greased.

The Eibach bar has more oversteer not to an annoying amount but definitely will take some getting used to. The Steeda feels much more like a sports car

I switched it out because my Steeda bar was clunking, and I couldn't get it to go away.

Personally, I prefer the way the Steeda bar drives, So far at least

 

[HuntingPudel]

So I just swapped out my front Steeda bar for Eibach. And I am a little surprised how big of a difference there is in each of these bars.

The Eibach is much smoother I will qualify that with the bushings on my Steeda had gone dry and were binding. One huge advantage to the Eibach is it has zerk fittings and can be be greeted.

The Eibach bar has more oversteer not to an annoying amount but definitely will take some getting used to. The steed feels muck more like a sports car

The reason why I switched it out was my Steeda bar had a clunk and I couldn't get it to go away.

Personally I prefer the way the Steeda bar drives. So far at least

Adding zerk fittings to the frame bushings is pretty easy. I did it to the Steedas in my 2021. All you need is a selection of twist drills, a 1/4-20 tap, a drill, and a tap handle (and something to clean the shards of junk out with after drilling and tapping). 10 minute job per bar, 20 if you're picky about where you're aiming the zerks. ??

I haven't installed the Eibachs in my 2024 yet. Been too busy with other stuff. I'll get to it some time soon™. ??

 

[tuminatr]

Adding zerk fittings to the frame bushings is pretty easy. I did it to the Steedas in my 2021. All you need is a selection of twist drills, a 1/4-20 tap, a drill, and a tap handle (and something to clean the shards of junk out with after drilling and tapping). 10 minute job per bar, 20 if you're picky about where you're aiming the zerks. ??

I haven't installed the Eibachs in my 2024 yet. Been too busy with other stuff. I'll get to it sometime soon™. ??

Thanks, I did see a few posts about adding zerk fittings to the steeda bar mounts and I Likely will do that this winter. I will drive this Eibach bar all winter. Come summer I will try this bar with my summer setup and possibly switch back to the steeda.

This also makes me think that the rear steeda bar bushings are likely dry and binding. I should do something about this

The Eibach bar install did retain the unplugged performance aftermarket end links, which are nice.

 

[DK_Min]

Hey All,

The snow is starting to melt so it’s time to get to work on the car and get the summer tires back on (which the dealership is going to take a look at to try to warranty this week!).

With that, it’s time to pull the plug on a sway bar or 2. Definitely going to get the eibach front bar as I can see it really helping with feel and turn in, but I’m still on the fence on the Eibach rear as from @markboris ‘s post on Pg 1 its only 215lbs of stiffness vs the OEM GT of 200lbs (and I’m not sure if the GTPE I have is stiffer).

Both the Eibach and OEM bar are hollow, so in my head I can’t really see much of a performance gain with the rear bar vs my GTPE rear and I’d rather not throw money/time away if I won’t see an improvement.

Anyone here have a GTPE who did just the front bar, and or also did the rear bar and notice an improvement? Let me know your thoughts and otherwise I’m ready to order! Thanks!

 

[markboris]

Hey All,

The snow is starting to melt so it’s time to get to work on the car and get the summer tires back on (which the dealership is going to take a look at to try to warranty this week!).

With that, it’s time to pull the plug on a sway bar or 2. Definitely going to get the eibach front bar as I can see it really helping with feel and turn in, but I’m still on the fence on the Eibach rear as from @markboris ‘s post on Pg 1 its only 215lbs of stiffness vs the OEM GT of 200lbs (and I’m not sure if the GTPE I have is stiffer).

Both the Eibach and OEM bar are hollow, so in my head I can’t really see much of a performance gain with the rear bar vs my GTPE rear and I’d rather not throw money/time away if I won’t see an improvement.

Anyone here have a GTPE who did just the front bar, and or also did the rear bar and notice an improvement? Let me know your thoughts and otherwise I’m ready to order! Thanks!

Hi Matt, somewhere here either in this thread or another, I posted Eibach's reply to my email about this. I cannot seem to find it so will post their email reply again below. My question to them was why their rear bar is rated at 215 when the GT bar was rated at 200 and didn't seem much of a difference. Wanted them to check with engineering to make sure this was the correct rear bar rating.

By the way, I have had many many conversations with Jared at Eibach about both their sway bars and springs over the last 3+ years. He is a great guy to deal with so if you have any specific questions, give him a shout and tell him I sent you ([email protected]).

Their reply:

8/25/23
HI Mark,

I'll ask the engineers to confirm the rear bar rate. That's what we have listed in our system. They usually work on getting the handling to be an improvement over stock. But still neutral for the average driver. So, they don't always develop based on bar rate. But more of the overall vehicle feel.

I'll confirm back on Monday. Our guys have already left for the weekend.

Best Regards,

Jared Reyes | Sales
Eibach, Inc. | 264 Mariah Circle | Corona, CA 92879-1751
T +1 951-256-8443

8/28/23
Hi Mark,

I was able to confirm that the 215 rate for the rear bar listed on our side is correct. Given the nature of the vehicle they wanted to produce something that improved the driver experience, but that was also neutral feeling. One other thing that I don’t know if we spoke about is the bar material. We use the same material for our bars, as we do our springs. This helps the bars response a little more like a spring, instead of just providing resistance.

Best Regards,

Jared Reyes | Sales
Eibach, Inc. | 264 Mariah Circle | Corona, CA 92879-1751
T +1 951-256-8443

 

[HuntingPudel]

A hollow bar is not significantly less resistant to torque than a solid bar of the same outside diameter (OD). You can remove a concentric cylinder of 30% or more of the OD of the torsion spring (which an anti-sway bar really is: a torsion spring connected to the two sides of the suspension) and remove less than 5% of the bar’s torsional rigidity. ??

Also of note, Ford oddly chose to make our GTs a bit tail-happy. Adding stiffness disproportionately to the front will calm that tendency, making the car more neutral. I can see wanting it to be stiffer in back with a staggered tire setup, but with a square setup the logic Eibach chose makes sense to me. ??

I guess I should get off my fuzzy butt soon and put my Eibachs in my 2024. ??

 

[DK_Min]

Hi Matt, somewhere here either in this thread or another, I posted Eibach's reply to my email about this. I cannot seem to find it so will post their email reply again below. My question to them was why their rear bar is rated at 215 when the GT bar was rated at 200 and didn't seem much of a difference. Wanted them to check with engineering to make sure this was the correct rear bar rating.

By the way, I have had many many conversations with Jared at Eibach about both their sway bars and springs over the last 3+ years. He is a great guy to deal with so if you have any specific questions, give him a shout and tell him I sent you ([email protected]).

Their reply:

8/25/23
HI Mark,

I'll ask the engineers to confirm the rear bar rate. That's what we have listed in our system. They usually work on getting the handling to be an improvement over stock. But still neutral for the average driver. So, they don't always develop based on bar rate. But more of the overall vehicle feel.

I'll confirm back on Monday. Our guys have already left for the weekend.

Best Regards,

Jared Reyes | Sales
Eibach, Inc. | 264 Mariah Circle | Corona, CA 92879-1751
T +1 951-256-8443

8/28/23
Hi Mark,

I was able to confirm that the 215 rate for the rear bar listed on our side is correct. Given the nature of the vehicle they wanted to produce something that improved the driver experience, but that was also neutral feeling. One other thing that I don’t know if we spoke about is the bar material. We use the same material for our bars, as we do our springs. This helps the bars response a little more like a spring, instead of just providing resistance.

Best Regards,

Jared Reyes | Sales
Eibach, Inc. | 264 Mariah Circle | Corona, CA 92879-1751
T +1 951-256-8443

Thanks @markboris, I’ve reached out to Jared and will provide an update later.

@HuntingPudel usually I like a stiffer rear bar as in most of the cars I’ve owned they have been setup to under steer a little bit. With the Mach-E being a daily driver I’m good with a stiffer front and okay with a bit more understeer at the limit as I won’t be tracking this car.

My thinking is that the rear Eibach bar was designed to be stiffer than an OEM non-GTPE rear, but is maybe too similar to the GTPE rear to make a difference. I could try it out anyway, as it’s only a couple hundred bucks, but time is a precious commodity right now and if I can get away with doing just the front during my spring tire swap, I’d rather that! If that rear will make a huge difference then I’m all in.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Thanks @markboris, I’ve reached out to Jared and will provide an update later.

@HuntingPudel usually I like a stiffer rear bar as in most of the cars I’ve owned they have been setup to under steer a little bit. With the Mach-E being a daily driver I’m good with a stiffer front and okay with a bit more understeer at the limit as I won’t be tracking this car.

My thinking is that the rear Eibach bar was designed to be stiffer than an OEM non-GTPE rear, but is maybe too similar to the GTPE rear to make a difference. I could try it out anyway, as it’s only a couple hundred bucks, but time is a precious commodity right now and if I can get away with doing just the front during my spring tire swap, I’d rather that! If that rear will make a huge difference then I’m all in.

For most cars we set up the front package to set the car’s attitude in the corners, then used the rear package to tune the handling balance. I’ve done cars in the past where the owner wanted to first try the front, which usually gets the car most of the way to where they want it, then the rear later. You might want to just try the front first then do the rear in a few months. I don’t recommend doing the rear first since the car is already a little tail-happy and the rear bar is about 8% stiffer than stock. ??

 

[jksu]

my previous 21 premium RWD was super tail happy, especially with the stock narrow rims and all season tires. crazy fun actually. when i put in jaguar 20x8.5 rims with michelin pilot sports, it definitely was harder to lose traction and throw the rear around but cornered 100x better than my old FWD volvo. after adding the eibach sway bars it cornered super flat and i loved it!

tbh, the 23 GTPE i replaced it with, although it's fast AF, it's not as fun around corners. the 4wd and not having the eibach sway bars are all part of that, i guess. it definitely understeers more than the RWD. the magnaride does a decent job of keeping it fairly flat on fast corners, but not as flat as on my premium with eibach sway bars.

may have to bite the bullet and get the swaybars (and potentially lowering springs) again. just thought the GTPE's stock suspension wouldn't need it

 

[DK_Min]

Keep us posted on when you do! ?

my previous 21 premium RWD was super tail happy, especially with the stock narrow rims and all season tires. crazy fun actually. when i put in jaguar 20x8.5 rims with michelin pilot sports, it definitely was harder to lose traction and throw the rear around but cornered 100x better than my old FWD volvo. after adding the eibach sway bars it cornered super flat and i loved it!

tbh, the 23 GTPE i replaced it with, although it's fast AF, it's not as fun around corners. the 4wd and not having the eibach sway bars are all part of that, i guess. it definitely understeers more than the RWD. the magnaride does a decent job of keeping it fairly flat on fast corners, but not as flat as on my premium with eibach sway bars.

may have to bite the bullet and get the swaybars (and potentially lowering springs) again. just thought the GTPE's stock suspension wouldn't need it

 

[mkhuffman]

Thanks @markboris, I’ve reached out to Jared and will provide an update later.

@HuntingPudel usually I like a stiffer rear bar as in most of the cars I’ve owned they have been setup to under steer a little bit. With the Mach-E being a daily driver I’m good with a stiffer front and okay with a bit more understeer at the limit as I won’t be tracking this car.

My thinking is that the rear Eibach bar was designed to be stiffer than an OEM non-GTPE rear, but is maybe too similar to the GTPE rear to make a difference. I could try it out anyway, as it’s only a couple hundred bucks, but time is a precious commodity right now and if I can get away with doing just the front during my spring tire swap, I’d rather that! If that rear will make a huge difference then I’m all in.

You could put the Steeda rear bar on instead. It is supposed to be more stiff than the Eibach and OEM.

I have the Steeda rear bar on my car now. It works great with the Eibach front bar. Just don't overload the rear and go over a big bump. The bar can hit - something. It has happened to me twice over the past two years, and only when my two sons were sitting in the back, I yelled at them and tossed them out of the car. Just kidding.

 

[DK_Min]

Which settings do you have the front Eibach and rear Steeda on and how do you like the balance and handling?

I don’t love that the Steeda bar may hit, but I guess it depends what it might hit!

Anyone else on here running that combination, specifically both front and rear bars on full stiff?

Thanks!!

You could put the Steeda rear bar on instead. It is supposed to be more stiff than the Eibach and OEM.

I have the Steeda rear bar on my car now. It works great with the Eibach front bar. Just don't overload the rear and go over a big bump. The bar can hit - something. It has happened to me twice over the past two years, and only when my two sons were sitting in the back, I yelled at them and tossed them out of the car. Just kidding.

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