Frunk stuck on first latch (used PAAK) final Update

[AKgrampy]

Hmmmm. I think both times this occurred with me, it was indeed first thing in the morning when the car hadn't been driven during the wintertime ..... however I wouldn't call where I live really cold, we're talking 40s to 50s and the car was in the garage both times overnight.

I am going to have to open my frunk one of these days just to see if it really exists!

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[scoopman]

I am going to have to open my frunk one of these days just to see if it really exists!

I think you're definitely our cold weather frunk test.

 

[scoopman]

Yeah so my genius dealer cut open my hood to release it without asking, so my car is now sitting at the dealer inoperable. For anyone that's had this repaired, any idea how long the parts took to come in? Looks like 3 days from looking at earlier in this thread and just the latch was replaced.

My dealer has ordered a rush on a new striker, latch, and the actuator. But I bet I don't need the actuator, sounds like it is the latch that fixed the problem?

 

[NotGreen75]

Yeah so my genius dealer cut open my hood to release it without asking, so my car is now sitting at the dealer inoperable. For anyone that's had this repaired, any idea how long the parts took to come in? Looks like 3 days from looking at earlier in this thread and just the latch was replaced.

My dealer has ordered a rush on a new striker, latch, and the actuator. But I bet I don't need the actuator, sounds like it is the latch that fixed the problem?

Mine took 3 weeks. They used air wedges to break mine open so had to replace the plastic around the latch as well. Pretty sure the backorder was on the actuator in our case.

 

[Mach-Lee]

This just happened to me. ??? Stuck on the first latch and can neither fully latch nor open. Release motor is stalled in the retracted position and won't budge. I've tried everything to get it unstuck. Now I can't drive the car for Christmas, part is backordered for a week or more.

There is a huge design flaw in this latch if the motor gets stuck. There is no cable override in the reverse direction when this happens, and because the latch mechanism is staged, you're totally screwed if you can't complete the second pull. The possibility of a stuck motor was not thought about whatsoever in the design.

Don't put anything in the frunk you couldn't live without for a week in case it gets stuck.

 

[Shayne]

This just happened to me. ??? Stuck on the first latch and can neither fully latch nor open. Release motor is stalled in the retracted position and won't budge. I've tried everything to get it unstuck. Now I can't drive the car for Christmas, part is backordered for a week or more.

There is a huge design flaw in this latch if the motor gets stuck. There is no cable override in the reverse direction when this happens, and because the latch mechanism is staged, you're totally screwed if you can't complete the second pull. The possibility of a stuck motor was not thought about whatsoever in the design.

Don't put anything in the frunk you couldn't live without for a week in case it gets stuck.

There are a few design flaws and I have found that they only become huge when they happen to you. Sorry to hear this has hit you. Can it still be driven or will it not go in gear if the hood is ajar?

Will this only happen if using the electronic release or can it happen while using the manual 2 pull method? I have started to use the frunk button in Ford pass but may be not such a good idea.

 

[Mach-Lee]

There are a few design flaws and I have found that they only become huge when they happen to you. Sorry to hear this has hit you. Can it still be driven or will it not go in gear if the hood is ajar?

Will this only happen if using the electronic release or can it happen while using the manual 2 pull method? I have started to use the frunk button in Ford pass but may be not such a good idea.

This one's right up there with the HVBJB in terms of inconvenience factor and difficulty to fix. The car still moves, but dings constantly that the frunk is open. There could also be a speed limiter in effect (I didn't try yet). But I would not want to drive it faster than about 30 MPH in case the hood blows open, which would cause major body damage. It can't be driven on the highway in this state.

The failures seem to be mostly associated with the electronic release mechanism getting stuck. It's possible the manual cable could get stuck too, but that seems rare. I guess I would recommend sticking to the manual release instead of electronic release if you're worried about it getting stuck.

 

[RVAtom]

I guess I would recommend sticking to the manual release instead of electronic release if you're worried about it getting stuck.

I finally got electronic frunk release after almost 3 years, and now I find out I don't probably want to use it...

 

[Ford Motor Company]

This just happened to me. ??? Stuck on the first latch and can neither fully latch nor open. Release motor is stalled in the retracted position and won't budge. I've tried everything to get it unstuck. Now I can't drive the car for Christmas, part is backordered for a week or more.

There is a huge design flaw in this latch if the motor gets stuck. There is no cable override in the reverse direction when this happens, and because the latch mechanism is staged, you're totally screwed if you can't complete the second pull. The possibility of a stuck motor was not thought about whatsoever in the design.

Don't put anything in the frunk you couldn't live without for a week in case it gets stuck.

Hi there, Lee. This part delay and frunk concern doesn’t sound like something we want you to experience with your Mach-E. Could you please send us a PM with your VIN and the name and location of your Ford dealer? To send a private message, just click on our username and select "Start Conversation". I'd be happy to look into how I can assist you on my end.

 

[Mach-Lee]

SUCCESS! I was able to get the hood open with tools, clear the jam, and put everything back together. The release actuator was stuck as I suspected. I'll make another post but basically the process was:

1. Use a 10 mm ratchet wrench and pry bar to unscrew the hood striker bolts through the tiny gap in the hood.
2. Open the hood
3. Remove all the panels and loosen the frunk tub
4. Lift up frunk tub for access and use pry bar to push stuck actuator forwards
5. Hood release can now be pulled to release the striker
6. Unplug actuator motor and put everything back together
7. Fully close hood! Yay!

After clearing the jam, the manual release works just fine now. I can drive my car again!!! Still waiting for the replacement part to arrive, but I can take care of that next week.

 

[alexgorod]

After clearing the jam, the manual release works just fine now. I can drive my car again!!! Still waiting for the replacement part to arrive, but I can take care of that next week.

What was the part that they replaced?
Do you use the power release after the incident, or completely switched to manual?
My car is in the shop since Thursday, and they promised to give it back to me on Monday, but I really hesitant to use the button when I get it back. Do we know if repeated failures have been reported here?

 

[Mach-Lee]

What was the part that they replaced?
Do you use the power release after the incident, or completely switched to manual?
My car is in the shop since Thursday, and they promised to give it back to me on Monday, but I really hesitant to use the button when I get it back. Do we know if repeated failures have been reported here?

Read my topic about it: How to Fix a Stuck Frunk/Hood

Haven't replaced the part quite yet, just using manual release for now. Motor is unplugged. Waiting for warmer weather.

 

[alexgorod]

I got a call from the dealership that the car is ready.

I asked them if they tested all ways to open the frunk and if there are any limitations, and after confirmation that everything is fine, I used the code on the pillar to unlock the frunk, and - yes - it got stuck again. So the motorized way to unlock it wasn't tested at all.

@Ford Motor Company - do you have an approved procedure to address this problem? If so, can you please send it to Avis Ford in Southfield MI?

 

[Mach-Lee]

I got a call from the dealership that the car is ready.

I asked them if they tested all ways to open the frunk and if there are any limitations, and after confirmation that everything is fine, I used the code on the pillar to unlock the frunk, and - yes - it got stuck again. So the motorized way to unlock it wasn't tested at all.

@Ford Motor Company - do you have an approved procedure to address this problem? If so, can you please send it to Avis Ford in Southfield MI?

Oh man they didn't replace the right part. So it got stuck again. I see they eventually settled on my method after trying all the other stuff.

You have to replace the actuator once it gets stuck, part number is in my topic. It will get stuck again every time it's used, which I also found in my testing and is why I unplugged mine until the new part came in.

 

[alexgorod]

You have to replace the actuator once it gets stuck, part number is in my topic. It will get stuck again every time it's used, which I also found in my testing and is why I unplugged mine until the new part came in.

If it will get stuck, what's the point in replacing the actuator?

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