GOM estimates wildly off or battery issues?

[radrat]

Hey folks,

new user here. I just purchased a 2022 MME California Route 1 eAWD with a nominal range of 312mi.
I read all the posts about known issues with the GOM and ways to mitigate them (including resetting the driving history and monitoring actual battery usage). I appreciated this is the #1 question every newbie asks but I figured I could ask for a sanity check.

I drove home and charged the car in my garage for the first time using the basic 120V charger. The gap between what the FordPass app tells me is a fully charged battery (242mi) and the nominal range for this car (312mi) seems ominous compared to what other users have reported. I called the dealer and they told me a simple reset of the driving history will make the GOM estimate much more accurate. I did this, I even changed the target charge level to 90% as recommended, but nothing changed: the total mileage for the battery is still the same, 70mi lower than the nominal range.

Should I be worried and follow up with the dealer to try something different or is this just an unfortunate case of wildly inaccurate estimates and I'll need to live with it and hope for some future software updates to improve these estimates?

Thanks for your help!

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[mkhuffman]

Hey folks,

new user here. I just purchased a 2022 MME California Route 1 eAWD with a nominal range of 312mi.
I read all the posts about known issues with the GOM and ways to mitigate them (including resetting the driving history and monitoring actual battery usage). I appreciated this is the #1 question every newbie asks but I figured I could ask for a sanity check.

I drove home and charged the car in my garage for the first time using the basic 120V charger. The gap between what the FordPass app tells me is a fully charged battery (242mi) and the nominal range for this car (312mi) seems ominous compared to what other users have reported. I called the dealer and they told me a simple reset of the driving history will make the GOM estimate much more accurate. I did this, I even changed the target charge level to 90% as recommended, but nothing changed: the total mileage for the battery is still the same, 70mi lower than the nominal range.

Should I be worried and follow up with the dealer to try something different or is this just an unfortunate case of wildly inaccurate estimates and I'll need to live with it and hope for some future software updates to improve these estimates?

Thanks for your help!

The best way to find out if your battery may have an issue is to get an OBDII scanner and the CarScaner app. You can check the battery's State of Health (SOH) and even check the capacity to empty in kWh - which should be around 91 kWh at 100%.

However, please keep in mind that the battery does not always charge to the full 91 kWh. I have measured less than that many times at 100%. The car is managing the battery health and adapting to ambient temperature. But you should see 88 kWh or more in the summer. Winter is another story, and winter is almost here.

 

[hawkeye3point1]

Should I be worried and follow up with the dealer to try something different or is this just an unfortunate case of wildly inaccurate estimates and I'll need to live with it and hope for some future software updates to improve these estimates?

Good on you for researching the issue, first step in understanding how EV range estimation is determined.

EPA rating for the MME is well north of 3 mi./kWh, most drivers new to EVs will have difficulty obtaining that efficiency in summer, forget about it in cooler months.

My advice is to give it a few weeks of use before assuming there is a reason to follow up with the dealer. It takes a while for a new car to establish driving history. And don't hold your breath for a software update.

For example if you drove the car home on the highway at 70 mph with the heat on, your lucky if you averaged 2.7 mi./kWh, that is 78% of the EPA value. If you do that consistently your range at full charge will be around 80% of max., less in winter if you live in the snow belt.

In summary, cold temps, highway driving, having a lead foot, and using a lot of climate control all lower mis./kWh.

About the only thing you can do besides avoiding those 4 realities is make sure tire pressure is 38-40 psi.

And in my experience the GOM is not the problem, I find it to be accurate and not all that conservative. The problem is how the EPA #s are generated, those are very optimistic and based on driving conditions most ICE drivers are unfamiliar with. But they are obtainable if you learn how to get the most out of a charge. That means you have to drive it like an EV not a Sports Car, sorry to burst that bubble.

 

[AKgrampy]

Hey folks,

new user here. I just purchased a 2022 MME California Route 1 eAWD with a nominal range of 312mi.
I read all the posts about known issues with the GOM and ways to mitigate them (including resetting the driving history and monitoring actual battery usage). I appreciated this is the #1 question every newbie asks but I figured I could ask for a sanity check.

I drove home and charged the car in my garage for the first time using the basic 120V charger. The gap between what the FordPass app tells me is a fully charged battery (242mi) and the nominal range for this car (312mi) seems ominous compared to what other users have reported. I called the dealer and they told me a simple reset of the driving history will make the GOM estimate much more accurate. I did this, I even changed the target charge level to 90% as recommended, but nothing changed: the total mileage for the battery is still the same, 70mi lower than the nominal range.

Should I be worried and follow up with the dealer to try something different or is this just an unfortunate case of wildly inaccurate estimates and I'll need to live with it and hope for some future software updates to improve these estimates?

Thanks for your help!

For now just concern yourself with your average mi/kWh. So if you are at 3 mi/kWh then your GOM for 100% should be 270 miles and 90% about 240 miles. If this is the case then your GOM should approach these values after a bit of driving. If your average is les than 3 then obviously your GOM should drop and if more than 3 it will go up. I was in the mid 3s this summer (no air con) but have dropped to around 2 now that we have hit freezing temps.

 

[radrat]

EPA rating for the MME is well north of 3 mi./kWh, most drivers new to EVs will have difficulty obtaining that efficiency in summer, forget about it in cooler months.

My advice is to give it a few weeks of use before assuming there is a reason to follow up with the dealer. It takes a while for a new car to establish driving history. And don't hold your breath for a software update.

For example if you drove the car home on the highway at 70 mph with the heat on, your lucky if you averaged 2.7 mi./kWh, that is 78% of the EPA value. If you do that consistently your range at full charge will be around 80% of max., less in winter if you live in the snow belt.

In summary, cold temps, highway driving, having a lead foot, and using a lot of climate control all lower mis./kWh.

This was useful. I reset my driving history and started logging consumption for my regular commute trips and so far they average at 3.8 - 4.4 mi/kWH so I guess I shouldn't be too worried for now.

 

[devmach-e]

And in my experience the GOM is not the problem, I find it to be accurate and not all that conservative. The problem is how the EPA #s are generated, those are very optimistic and based on driving conditions most ICE drivers are unfamiliar with. But they are obtainable if you learn how to get the most out of a charge. That means you have to drive it like an EV not a Sports Car, sorry to burst that bubble.

The EPA range numbers are not meant to give you a baselline for the range you should expect. They're meant to allow a consumer to be able to compare two (or more) comprable cars to eachother (size of car and form factor) and figure out which one will cost less to operate.

Every car, regardless of the powertrain (electric, gas, diesel, hydrogen, natural gas, etc) undergo the same exact set of tests. Those tests are supposed to mimic a typical commute, but as we all know, everybody is different. Thus the disclaimer on every window sticker: "Your mileage (range) may vary." The fact that a range figure is produced is incidental to the actual number that matters: the MPGe for city, highway, and combined. Or alternately, the kWh per 100 miles figure. You want higher MPGe numbers, and lower kWh/100 miles if looking at efficiency/cost to operate.

You are correct that if you drive the car like it is a sports car, i.e lots of rapid acceleration/deceleration, you will get crappy range. Just like if you did it in a gas car, you'll get crappy MPG. That hasn't changed in like, well, since the beginning of the automobile.

 

[SnBGC]

This was useful. I reset my driving history and started logging consumption for my regular commute trips and so far they average at 3.8 - 4.4 mi/kWH so I guess I shouldn't be too worried for now.

Correct. Nothing to get worked up about just yet. Give it some time to settle in.
If you are getting 30 miles or better for every 10% of charge then you are right on track.
The GOM gets better the more you drive it. I have never reset my driving history. All that does is put you back to square one and you have to build a history again. My GOM is very accurate.

 

[devmach-e]

This was useful. I reset my driving history and started logging consumption for my regular commute trips and so far they average at 3.8 - 4.4 mi/kWH so I guess I shouldn't be too worried for now.

It will take time for the computer to adjust to your particular driving habits. You need to give it at least 1000 miles. Also, there's this thing called fall/winter and predicted range is going to go down because the car knows you'll be using more heat, and colder/wetter air is denser, which means the car has to work more to push the air out of the way.

 

[SnBGC]

It will take time for the computer to adjust to your particular driving habits. You need to give it at least 1000 miles. Also, there's this thing called fall/winter and predicted range is going to go down because the car knows you'll be using more heat, and colder/wetter air is denser, which means the car has to work more to push the air out of the way.

To add to that....
I was quite surprised to see how much of an impact that inclement weather has on range. Makes sense now that I think about it but is much more noticeable in an EV since they are so efficient compared to an ICE vehicle.

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