High voltage battery warning - insulation fault

[anth_85]

Does Disney in Paris actually have a decent number of chargers? Disney World has like 4 per park, good luck getting them, and they are still not free. (Not a bad price…and if you did get one you got upgraded to premium parking for free…but good luck).

im staying in the Disney land hotel, they have 25 chargers at that hotel alone. When I was at Newport bay early last year they had about 15. I checked them out because that was where I was planning on charging that time!

I’ve read they are install a large bank with about 200 chargers in the main day parking. That isn’t free, but it is pretty cheap. Nearly the whole car park is covered in canopy’s that have solar panels on them.

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[anth_85]

Ford have been on the phone. Car drove absolutely fine, so they cleared the codes, took it out again an the error hasn't come back. I am now stuck in limbo. Do I risk breaking down in the middle of France, or do I arrange a hire car at the cost of £500 for a week.

 

[Adventureboy]

it can fail closed or fail open. If it fails closed, you may still be able to drive the car, albeit with reduced power. That is what happened with my 23 GTPE.

Mine failed closed and I could drive it, but it drained the 12v battery overnight, so it wasn't very usable unless I kept a battery maintainer on it. At the time, it took 6 weeks to get the part. The supply chain should be much better now.

 

[anth_85]

Just got back home with the car. Dealer is closed for the weekend so it made more sense for me to do an extended test to see if the issue returns. I’ve just drove it 20 miles without anything to report. So I have no idea what I should do next

 

[Mach-Lee]

Just got back home with the car. Dealer is closed for the weekend so it made more sense for me to do an extended test to see if the issue returns. I’ve just drove it 20 miles without anything to report. So I have no idea what I should do next

High voltage isolation faults will usually return. It may only show up under load. They should not just clear the codes and return the car to you without further investigation. You probably need a cell module replacement.

 

[anth_85]

High voltage isolation faults will usually return. It may only show up under load. They should not just clear the codes and return the car to you without further investigation. You probably need a cell module replacement.

I hope it does, I want it pinning down to what is causing this. This uncertainty to what the cause it is a nightmare. They can’t even replace modules because they don’t know what the cause is and since clearing the code it hasn’t come back.

 

[astrorob]

I hope it does, I want it pinning down to what is causing this. This uncertainty to what the cause it is a nightmare. They can’t even replace modules because they don’t know what the cause is and since clearing the code it hasn’t come back.

surely there's a way for them to read each battery module SOC and analyze module resistance, etc. the leaf had this way back in 2011 and i can't believe the mustang doesn't.

 

[anth_85]

well now its absolutely done. I've been driving it round since picking it up from Ford yesterday. It did 20 miles last night, no warning. Stuck it on charge overnight, it did about 2 miles before the warning came on. Left it, then went back and it had gone off. Drove it and it came back after a mile or so. Done another mile to the shop, it was on the whole time. Got back in from the shop and got the stop safely warning. Took it home and now it's dead, hand brake wont come off, wont move anywhere. Thankfully I still have the courtesy car. But I now can't charge it because my car is on the drive and blocking it.

What an absolute farce.

 

[noway]

If the parking brake cannot be turned off it probably is related to 12V battery failure (which will also create a whole lot of other error with it).

 

[anth_85]

If the parking brake cannot be turned off it probably is related to 12V battery failure (which will also create a whole lot of other error with it).

Is that just a matter of swapping the battery and the errors go away? I put the car on charge last night on the 7kw home charger so I would have thought that would charge the 12v at the same time. Is it worth sticking it back on charge now and see if that gives the 12v a kick?

 

[noway]

If the 12V battery is bad it will look like being fully charged while a charger is on, and then just die or get too low voltage as soon as not being charged. Best thing to do would be to measure the voltage on the 12V system while not charging. Other than that try to put a booster pack on the 12V ports in the frunk and see if it gets any better

 

[Mach-Lee]

Is that just a matter of swapping the battery and the errors go away? I put the car on charge last night on the 7kw home charger so I would have thought that would charge the 12v at the same time. Is it worth sticking it back on charge now and see if that gives the 12v a kick?

The 12 V battery can only be charged from the high voltage battery. So when the high voltage battery shuts down, then the 12 V can no longer be charged, and will discharge under the load of various modules trying to stay alive. Eventually, the 12 V battery will go completely dead. The 12 V battery cannot be directly charged from AC power.

In your situation, you must jumpstart or boost the 12 V battery in order to wake up the car and shut the parking brake off. Then you can get it into emergency tow mode and push it out of the way.

 

[anth_85]

The 12 V battery can only be charged from the high voltage battery. So when the high voltage battery shuts down, then the 12 V can no longer be charged, and will discharge under the load of various modules trying to stay alive. Eventually, the 12 V battery will go completely dead. The 12 V battery cannot be directly charged from AC power.

In your situation, you must jumpstart or boost the 12 V battery in order to wake up the car and shut the parking brake off. Then you can get it into emergency tow mode and push it out of the way.

I've spoke to a tech from Ford who has access to the FDRS software, and he says it is reading as an insulation failure now at a critical level, less than 400k ohms so it has shut itself down. It's a very real possibility that water has got into the battery. It is also possible that when the battery was out and opened for the HVBJB that it hasn't been sealed properly again which could be the reason. Obviously he hasn't seen it so it's all guesswork at this point. It has not stopped raining all day today so that fits, but it wasn't wet when it first came on so I don't know. If that is the case I am looking at a repair or full replacement battery. Typically it is now the weekend and obviously everywhere is shut.

 

[Mach-Lee]

I've spoke to a tech from Ford who has access to the FDRS software, and he says it is reading as an insulation failure now at a critical level, less than 400k ohms so it has shut itself down. It's a very real possibility that water has got into the battery. It is also possible that when the battery was out and opened for the HVBJB that it hasn't been sealed properly again which could be the reason. Obviously he hasn't seen it so it's all guesswork at this point. It has not stopped raining all day today so that fits, but it wasn't wet when it first came on so I don't know. If that is the case I am looking at a repair or full replacement battery. Typically it is now the weekend and obviously everywhere is shut.

Water in the battery is a possibility, but that’s actually pretty rare because it’s completely sealed (the battery pack would need to be damaged). It’s more likely you just have a failing cell module and it’s dry inside.

I would recommend that you call Ford roadside assistance, and they will have the car towed to the Ford dealership for repair. Boost/charge the 12V and get it alive before calling so it can be loaded on the truck more easily.

 

[anth_85]

Water in the battery is a possibility, but that’s actually pretty rare because it’s completely sealed (the battery pack would need to be damaged). It’s more likely you just have a failing cell module and it’s dry inside.

I would recommend that you call Ford roadside assistance, and they will have the car towed to the Ford dealership for repair. Boost/charge the 12V and get it alive before calling so it can be loaded on the truck more easily.

as I say it’s been raining all day. I could do it now and have the poor recovery guy stand in the rain. But I’m better off doing it tomorrow when it’s dry. He won’t be able to fix it either way, and the dealer is closed regardless.

it is still alive, lights, dash etc all come on. It just won’t change out of park.

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