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SAVAGE

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How’d you pop out the hole for the cable? Does it look ok?
There is an area in the charger designated as a 'knock out' to cut around and allow for the connection to come in.





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There is an area in the charger designated as a 'knock out' to cut around and allow for the connection to come in.
I drilled mine out with a holesaw. It looked too stout to knock it out without damaging something.
 

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I drilled mine out with a holesaw. It looked too stout to knock it out without damaging something.
This is basically what I did (although I fed the power in through the back) ... but the "punch outs" looked like they had too much material to just punch out ... so I used a 1" spade bit.

Electricians have hole punches that will punch into the service panels so they can run conduits, etc. ... and those things punch right through the metal. One of those punches would easily pop through the plastic case material.

My guess is they expect the electricians will punch the holes using their tools. In my case, I generally hang the hardware and my electrician connects the wiring -- which means I put my own hole in the box.

Part of my install was some carpentry work. My garage is not finished ... the studs are all visible. So I needed to make a panel between studs to mount it. I did that work and mounted the wood panel, installed the bracket, determined where the wiring hole needed to be and put the holes through the EVSE box and through the wood.

From there... the install is pretty easy so the electrician's time is minimal.

(I should mention that my electrician had already pre-run the wire ... we were just waiting for the charger).
 

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[QUOTE="TheVirtualTim, post: 105191, member: 1606"

Electricians have hole punches that will punch into the service panels so they can run conduits, etc. ... and those things punch right through the metal. One of those punches would easily pop through the plastic case material.

[/QUOTE]

Hah! I have a set of knockout punches, but I never thought to use them on plastic. I'm sure it would have worked fine and made less of a mess than my holesaw.
 

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Received ours today. Wife said "That's nice, reminds me of that episode of The Office.". Huh.

She meant this.


On another note, the knockouts on the outer case will cut out easily with a set of dikes and worrying the rear joint.

IMG_20210211_213514.jpg


The bottom of the inner closure has threaded opening that will accept a gland or bulkhead fitting. Pretty nice.
 

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This is basically what I did (although I fed the power in through the back) ... but the "punch outs" looked like they had too much material to just punch out ... so I used a 1" spade bit.

Electricians have hole punches that will punch into the service panels so they can run conduits, etc. ... and those things punch right through the metal. One of those punches would easily pop through the plastic case material.

My guess is they expect the electricians will punch the holes using their tools. In my case, I generally hang the hardware and my electrician connects the wiring -- which means I put my own hole in the box.

Part of my install was some carpentry work. My garage is not finished ... the studs are all visible. So I needed to make a panel between studs to mount it. I did that work and mounted the wood panel, installed the bracket, determined where the wiring hole needed to be and put the holes through the EVSE box and through the wood.

From there... the install is pretty easy so the electrician's time is minimal.

(I should mention that my electrician had already pre-run the wire ... we were just waiting for the charger).
This sounds pretty similar to my garage - unfinished, exposed studs. The difference is that I'm not the type you want doing carpentry. There would likely be severed appendages, blood everywhere, and loss of structural integrity in my garage :D I'm hoping that my electrician can figure out the necessary panel needed to mount the Ford Connected Charge Station. Verizon did something similar for the ONT and power supply for the FiOS connection.
 

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Has anyone just mounted their charger to the face of an exposed stud instead of putting on a panel? The mounting bracket has top and bottom center holes for post mounting, and that seems like the simplest/laziest mounting solution for unfinished garages with exposed studs.
 

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Has anyone just mounted their charger to the face of an exposed stud instead of putting on a panel? The mounting bracket has top and bottom center holes for post mounting, and that seems like the simplest/laziest mounting solution for unfinished garages with exposed studs.
Should work fine. Just drill pilot holes and get some decent lag bolts and washers, maybe drill out the holes in the plate if they are too small for lag bolts. The screws the unit came with are pretty poor IMO, good lag bolts or tapcons would be preferable.
 

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Has anyone just mounted their charger to the face of an exposed stud instead of putting on a panel? The mounting bracket has top and bottom center holes for post mounting, and that seems like the simplest/laziest mounting solution for unfinished garages with exposed studs.
If I had exposed studs, I would simply cut a couple of 2x4s to fit in between the studs horizontally and screw them in place positioned to catch the 4 holes intended for panel mounting.

And I wouldn't use Tapcons in wood - they're made for masonry.
 

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If I had exposed studs, I would simply cut a couple of 2x4s to fit in between the studs horizontally and screw them in place positioned to catch the 4 holes intended for panel mounting.

And I wouldn't use Tapcons in wood - they're made for masonry.
Yup, the supplied screws came with plastic anchors for masonry, tapcons
would be better. Lags for wood.
 

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Another Ford Charger Installation:

1 Column Mount.jpg

Mounted on column in center of garage - no cable across floor. Electrical box installed as p[art of solar install.
2 Holster.jpg

Holster installed on opposite of column from box. Car plug-in is only 3 feet to right of holster.

3 Solar Subpanel.jpg


Charger sub-panel installed next to solar panel controller, inverter, & battery. Back up 220v 14-50 outlet installed on that side of garage for parking flexibility. Self-install - took about and hour.
 

1pt21Gigawatts

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Another Ford Charger Installation:

1 Column Mount.jpg

Mounted on column in center of garage - no cable across floor. Electrical box installed as p[art of solar install.
2 Holster.jpg

Holster installed on opposite of column from box. Car plug-in is only 3 feet to right of holster.

3 Solar Subpanel.jpg


Charger sub-panel installed next to solar panel controller, inverter, & battery. Back up 220v 14-50 outlet installed on that side of garage for parking flexibility. Self-install - took about and hour.
With the 2017 GT and everything, getting some dream garage vibes over here, phew! You put in a hose reel instead of wrapping it around the holster thing?
 

Mopey

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With the 2017 GT and everything, getting some dream garage vibes over here, phew! You put in a hose reel instead of wrapping it around the holster thing?
Yes. Put a spare hose reel under the housing to make it look a bit neater on the visible side of the column. There is just enough slack for the hose to reach the car’s charging port.
 

Maquis

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Another Ford Charger Installation:

1 Column Mount.jpg

Mounted on column in center of garage - no cable across floor. Electrical box installed as p[art of solar install.
2 Holster.jpg

Holster installed on opposite of column from box. Car plug-in is only 3 feet to right of holster.

3 Solar Subpanel.jpg


Charger sub-panel installed next to solar panel controller, inverter, & battery. Back up 220v 14-50 outlet installed on that side of garage for parking flexibility. Self-install - took about and hour.
Fantastic! I wish my garage looked that uncluttered!
 

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