Range degeneration?

dbsb3233

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Yes. Good idea but any such threads will still go on and on and it won’t prevent any threads from happening again in the future. “I searched but couldn’t find anything.” (A valid complaint btw given the forum search limitations).

The other problem is when those thread is started by a multi year owner who has been through this before. I categorize those into the “Are you SURE I didn’t get the wrong battery?” threads.

Maybe instead, we can just redirect such questions each fall to the Norwegian machine-e owners. Or to those residing in Drumheller. :)
The irony is how these threads draw the people that say they hate them like a moth to a flame. ?‍♂

The simplest "solution" is just to not click on it.
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profdraper

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This is my second winter with my 2023 mme GT. Last winter, my range at 80% charge was around 180 miles. Today, ambient weather in the mid 20s, I had a range of 160 at 80% when I left the house. I drove a 12 mile round trip and used 30 miles of range. Can someone suggest what's going on? Did the battery really deteriorate that much in one year?
Cold weather & driving conditions, that’s it & as per any EV really. Have a look at the EV database for ranges & ratings, eg: https://ev-database.org/imp/car/1246/Ford-Mustang-Mach-E-GT

Real Rangebetween 180 - 370 mi
City - Cold Weather255 mi
Highway - Cold Weather180 mi
Combined - Cold Weather215 mi

City - Mild Weather370 mi
Highway - Mild Weather230 mi
Combined - Mild Weather290 mi
 

ipca204

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Maybe a heat pump will help....I'll see myself out.
but but but the diminishing FRUNK space is a hot topic for some as well...lol
 

Mach-Lee

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Question; Does anyone out there now what the story is about the alleged reserve battery capability. I am under the impression that they Mach e has a reserve of 20%. My question is, does that mean if we drive the GOM range to 0, we will still have 20% left. If so does that mean you can keep on driving or does the vehicle stop at GOM 0 range?
No. The battery reserve capacity in warm weather is only a couple kWh, not 20% (not sure where you heard that). But when it's cold outside, don't count on it. Zero means zero. And you might get turtle mode before you hit zero around 10%.

My recommendation is charge at 20% in cold weather. You might be able to push it down to 10%, but things start getting pretty risky with power limits after that.
 

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ChasingCoral

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Question; Does anyone out there now what the story is about the alleged reserve battery capability. I am under the impression that they Mach e has a reserve of 20%. My question is, does that mean if we drive the GOM range to 0, we will still have 20% left. If so does that mean you can keep on driving or does the vehicle stop at GOM 0 range?
On a 2021 the buffer was about 10-11 kWh, so about 12%. The buffer dropped to about 8% later. Part is at the top, part at the bottom.

However, a buffer is battery capacity not useable by the owner without reprogramming the car. Don’t count on getting any distance below 0.
 
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Mach-Lee

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FYI I think calling it "reserve capacity" is a misnomer. It's 91 kWh usable, and 8 kWh unusable (not "reserve"). Of the 91 kWh, you get about 88 kWh from 100-0%, which leaves AT MOST 3 kWh in "reserve" below 0% SoC displayed. However, those remaining kWh below 0% are subject to power limits, voltage limits, and BMS sway, so don't count on getting all of it.
 

dbsb3233

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FYI I think calling it "reserve capacity" is a misnomer. It's 91 kWh usable, and 8 kWh unusable (not "reserve"). Of the 91 kWh, you get about 88 kWh from 100-0%, which leaves AT MOST 3 kWh in "reserve" below 0% SoC displayed. However, those remaining kWh below 0% are subject to power limits, voltage limits, and BMS sway, so don't count on getting all of it.
Agreed. "Reserve" sounds like you can still get to it, like a 2 gallon reserve below E in a gas tank. "Usable" and "Unusable" are better terms.

Even if the car *might* let you limp along with a little of that unusable part of the battery below 0%, it should still be referred to as unusable. Doing otherwise just temps drivers to push the limit further. While I love most of Kyle's OutOfSpec "race" videos, the one part I hate is how they're always talking about pushing it to the limits ("OOS style") and how much buffer the car has. That does a disservice to normal drivers. (It's also not good for the battery pack.)
 

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FYI I think calling it "reserve capacity" is a misnomer. It's 91 kWh usable, and 8 kWh unusable (not "reserve"). Of the 91 kWh, you get about 88 kWh from 100-0%, which leaves AT MOST 3 kWh in "reserve" below 0% SoC displayed. However, those remaining kWh below 0% are subject to power limits, voltage limits, and BMS sway, so don't count on getting all of it.
Quite correct. They are really battery buffers to protect the battery from overcharge/undercharge damage.
 

YeOldeTraveller

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Agreed. "Reserve" sounds like you can still get to it, like a 2 gallon reserve below E in a gas tank. "Usable" and "Unusable" are better terms.

Even if the car *might* let you limp along with a little of that unusable part of the battery below 0%, it should still be referred to as unusable. Doing otherwise just temps drivers to push the limit further. While I love most of Kyle's OutOfSpec "race" videos, the one part I hate is how they're always talking about pushing it to the limits ("OOS style") and how much buffer the car has. That does a disservice to normal drivers. (It's also not good for the battery pack.)
And eventually leads to "dead on the side of the road".

To be fair, there is a place for showing what happens when you near the bottom of the pack. I would just like to see a bit more of the "Don't do this, and why you shouldn't" My take away from the "run it to dead" testing is the car is going to try very hard to get you to drive to a charger (some better and more insistent than others).
 

Guss-E 2021

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Late to this party so most of the snark has been covered (damn, I love me some good snark).

Instead, I'll try to add something a bit more constructive (which is not me condemning snark by the way ?).

@mach-T (to address your OP) I'm not sure if it has already been said, but your battery has not degraded between winters. Not in any meaningful way at least. The larger culprit here is software (which has been said - a few times actually). Fear not, the underlying performance of your car is likely fine. Stay warm, drive fast ?.
 
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I am starting to track actual miles traveled vs. miles subtracted from the GOM. Take readings from both and compare after a day’s use. I suspect that the GOM is conservative and we are actually getting more range than it reflects.
Car is only a month old and this is part of my learning process.
Wife drove the car 167 miles yesterday, and range went from 85% to 20%. Started with 224 on the GOM and arrived home with 48, so she used 176 off the GOM.
I actually think that that is about as accurate a guess as you could expect, especially since she was driving 75 mph for most of the trip. I am going to do this a couple more times to get a feel for the GOM's accuracy.
 

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To all, regarding the battery buffer capacity. Thanks for the feedback, but I am curious, has anyone actually driven their Mach e to 0 range? If so, did it just stop? Were there any warnings first? I admit I don't want to test it by driving it down to 0, it's to cold around here to be stranded on the road with a bricked EV.

PS: Someone mentioned "Turtle mode". Is that a real feature? How and when does it work?
 

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To all, regarding the battery buffer capacity. Thanks for the feedback, but I am curious, has anyone actually driven their Mach e to 0 range? If so, did it just stop? Were there any warnings first? I admit I don't want to test it by driving it down to 0, it's to cold around here to be stranded on the road with a bricked EV.

PS: Someone mentioned "Turtle mode". Is that a real feature? How and when does it work?
People have tested it…your car will start losing power (hence turtle mode), it will yell at you a lot, it will continually warn you to not do what you’re doing. And eventually it will stop, not necessarily the second it hits 0, but you don’t want to ignore all those warning unless you want to be waiting for a tow.
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