Stuck Frunk repair experience

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..... apparently it didn't need a second hood latch part (!) and the dealership is working on it now .... I'm hoping I don't see anyone with floppy shoes and a big red nose on my dashcam footage.
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..... apparently it didn't need a second hood latch part (!) and the dealership is working on it now .... I'm hoping I don't see anyone with floppy shoes and a big red nose on my dashcam footage.
You also have to look out for the horn with the squishy red button in addition to the big red nose and floppy shoes.?
 
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I got my car back today finally YAY! I also played dumb and asked them to perform the recalls on my car, and it looks like this time, they are submitting the paperwork saying they did the recall, even though everything's already up to date.

To the extent my slamming my hood could have contributed to this failure, I think @spicy_taco is right: there are two rubbery supports on each side of the frunk that can be adjusted, and one of mine was adjusted very high, the other low. I adjusted both to be as low as possible, and this has seemed to make it much easier to give a gentle caress on the front of Mach N Cheese for the latch to engage.

Here's the paperwork that should tell you what parts your local neighborhood clown dealer needs to order (see page 2):


Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuck Frunk repair experience what the frunk (1)-1


Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuck Frunk repair experience what the frunk (1)-2
 

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I got my car back today finally YAY! I also played dumb and asked them to perform the recalls on my car, and it looks like this time, they are submitting the paperwork saying they did the recall, even though everything's already up to date.
Fantastic news. Looking forward to more Mach and Cheese vids I'm the future.

As far as those rubber supports. I have a theory (completely based on fuzzy feelings) that they need to be adjusted high enough to provide assistance in unlatching the frunk, but low enough to not obstruct the lid closure. I am not sure why they aren't adjusted proper out of the box. I had the same issue with one being too low abd other much too high. So much so i could feel the hood misaligned over the headlights on one side.
 


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Fantastic news. Looking forward to more Mach and Cheese vids I'm the future.

As far as those rubber supports. I have a theory (completely based on fuzzy feelings) that they need to be adjusted high enough to provide assistance in unlatching the frunk, but low enough to not obstruct the lid closure. I am not sure why they aren't adjusted proper out of the box. I had the same issue with one being too low abd other much too high. So much so i could feel the hood misaligned over the headlights on one side.
Yeah I want to experiment some more, when there aren't 60mph winds outside like there are right now....
 

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This sucks, but I'm gonna be honest, I haven't had a car that hasn't had some sort of annoying issue with hardware like this. My brand new Odyssey had the sliding door stop working which is bad if you've got kids in the back, Toyota had weird issues as did Hyundai. It all comes down to how dealer network fixes it. I dread going into any dealer service department.
In the last 30 years of driving I haven’t had one car that has annoying issues like this

i guess I’ve been lucky
 

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Yeah I want to experiment some more, when there aren't 60mph winds outside like there are right now....
I adjusted mine about 18 months ago, I can drop the hood with just a bit of a one handed basketball shot flip of the wrist and get it to latch the first time about 98% of the time. Glad the car is back dude.
 

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holy smokes those dealer write-ups are a masterclass in run-on sentences. bravo.

i'm going to go check my frunk supports!
 

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Yeah I want to experiment some more, when there aren't 60mph winds outside like there are right now....
Wow, Andy, I am sorry to hear you continue to have problems (I somehow missed the thread when you originally posted). It sure does put a damper on what is otherwise and outstanding vehicle in concept. Like you have pointed out, having a good dealer also makes a huge difference.
 

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I got my car back today finally YAY! I also played dumb and asked them to perform the recalls on my car, and it looks like this time, they are submitting the paperwork saying they did the recall, even though everything's already up to date.

To the extent my slamming my hood could have contributed to this failure, I think @spicy_taco is right: there are two rubbery supports on each side of the frunk that can be adjusted, and one of mine was adjusted very high, the other low. I adjusted both to be as low as possible, and this has seemed to make it much easier to give a gentle caress on the front of Mach N Cheese for the latch to engage.

Here's the paperwork that should tell you what parts your local neighborhood clown dealer needs to order (see page 2):


what the frunk (1)-1.webp


what the frunk (1)-2.webp
LJ8Z-16700-C seems to be an invalid or depreciated part number for the hood latch. The involved part numbers are:
  • LJ8Z-16K689-A is the striker mounted to the hood
  • LJ8Z-16700-A is the main hood latch that mates with the above
  • LJ8Z-16700-B is the side latch and cable assembly which contains the pull motor
  • W715851-S450B are the 10mm nuts for the hood striker and latches
I now figure they had to cut the striker to get the frunk tub out past it, that occurred after your video.
 
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Yeah this repair was hard to see on my dashcam because the uh hood was in the way most of the time.

This coulda been a lot worse, someone had it take 3 weeks for their dealer to get these parts. Defnitely confirmed that those stoppers affect whether your hood is easy, or challenging, to close without using a lot of force.

I'm also glad I got my car back before the insane winter wind and rain storm blowing thru the area starting today. Quick video on this "adventure" editing tonight!
 
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LJ8Z-16700-C seems to be an invalid or depreciated part number for the hood latch. The involved part numbers are:
  • LJ8Z-16K689-A is the striker mounted to the hood
  • LJ8Z-16700-A is the main hood latch that mates with the above
  • LJ8Z-16700-B is the side latch and cable assembly which contains the pull motor
  • W715851-S450B are the 10mm nuts for the hood striker and latches
I now figure they had to cut the striker to get the frunk tub out past it, that occurred after your video.
I did ask again and they insisted they did actually destroy the striker -- and also that you have to replace all that stuff together under warranty because ..... safety. So not actually sure which of these parts failed.
 
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Wow, Andy, I am sorry to hear you continue to have problems (I somehow missed the thread when you originally posted). It sure does put a damper on what is otherwise and outstanding vehicle in concept. Like you have pointed out, having a good dealer also makes a huge difference.
Thanks. Yeah, y'know things coulda been worse.

But they certainly coulda been better, too.
 
 







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