The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS

[Robob]

for KOEO I have always done it with the brake pushed in although a few times doing multiple linked updates I have just hit the button. I assume if you give the car enough time between the steps it should figure it out just fine.
For off sequences I wait until the headlights and IPC screen go completely off. for Key on I wait until the APIM has booted up and connected car play etc.
I also wonder if this is why my PAAK breaks while updating sometimes as I do them all with PAAK not the FOB. But who knows!

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[grein002]

for KOEO I have always done it with the brake pushed in although a few times doing multiple linked updates I have just hit the button. I assume if you give the car enough time between the steps it should figure it out just fine.
For off sequences I wait until the headlights and IPC screen go completely off. for Key on I wait until the APIM has booted up and connected car play etc.
I also wonder if this is why my PAAK breaks while updating sometimes as I do them all with PAAK not the FOB. But who knows!

Yeah, I've started using the fob for FDRS updates to be on the safe side.

 

[rugedraw]

Ok, given the different approaches, maybe it does not matter? It would be good to get a consensus from everyone here about what mode the perform repairs in.

Do whatever FDRS tells you do while using it. In some cases, it will say ignition on and others it will tell you to start it. Turn off headlights, radio, a/c fan, interior lights......anything that draws power. Also, get into the habit of turning off the 30 minute shut down timer to avid the car turning off in the middle of writing one of the longer updates.

 

[grein002]

Do whatever FDRS tells you do while using it. In some cases, it will say ignition on and others it will tell you to start it. Turn off headlights, radio, a/c fan, interior lights......anything that draws power. Also, get into the habit of turning off the 30 minute shut down timer to avid the car turning off in the middle of writing one of the longer updates.

Right - the question is, what is the difference between "ignition on (engine off)" and "ignition on (engine on)"? I don't believe such a distinction exists on the Mach E (or F150 Lightning, for that matter). I think the only time the ignition is "on" is when you press the brake and the start button. Not trying to be argumentative, I truly want to know the answer...

 

[HuntingPudel]

Personally, I hate the terminology “key on, engine off.” Why can’t they just use the terminology that’s been around since the ‘50s of “accessory mode?” ??

 

[grein002]

Because, for ICE vehicles, they are not the same thing. Key on, engine off is the "run" position without starting the car. Accessory mode is a separate position on the ignition switch that turns on accessories, but doesn't allow the engine to run. They are two different things.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Because, for ICE vehicles, they are not the same thing. Key on, engine off is the "run" position without starting the car. Accessory mode is a separate position on the ignition switch that turns on accessories, but doesn't allow the engine to run. They are two different things.

Engine is not running in either case. Accessories are energized in either case. It is still an accessory mode wherein the motive power is excluded but other systems are energized. ?‍?

 

[grein002]

OK. Let's try this again. Using keyed ignition of an ICE as an example. There are 4 positions on the ignition:

1. Off - everything is off.
2. ACC - certain accessories (primarily stereo / infotainment) are powered on. Engine components
(engine computer, fuel pump, etc.) are not powered.
3. ON (engine not running) - all components required for operation are on (engine computer,
fuel pump, etc.). Engine will start / run if cranked.
4. Start - same as on, plus starter motor turns the engine over to start it.

#2 & #3 are not the same.

With newer ICE vehicles with push-button ignition, #2 is usually activated by simply pressing the start button. #3 is usually activated by pressing and holding the start button for several seconds. To actually start the engine, the brake is pressed and then the start button.

Our Mach E's don't have both ON (engine not running) and ON (engine running). There is only ON and ACC. The systems that propel the vehicle are only energized in the ON mode.

I can't know for certain that ON is the correct option for FDRS updates on Mach E. I think it is fair to assume, however, that the terminology distinguishing between ON (engine running) and ON (engine not running) is meant for ICE vehicles and doesn't fully translate to Ford's electric models. I also don't think it is unreasonable to assume that some updates may require power to modules that are only powered in the ON position.

 

[enhost]

Personally, I hate the terminology “key on, engine off.” Why can’t they just use the terminology that’s been around since the ‘50s of “accessory mode?” ??

Or not having "accessory on" at all, because it should always be on..... like in an electric car that should be on once you open the door and have the key. Like in a Tesla.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Or not having "accessory on" at all, because it should always be on..... like in an electric car that should be on once you open the door and have the key. Like in a Tesla.

God, I hope they never do that. As an engineer and a tinkerer I have problems with that. I get to decide what operating state it’s in. If they ever do that, my car will spend nearly as much time with the LV battery disconnected as with it connected. Or maybe I just won’t buy one. ?‍?

 

[enhost]

God, I hope they never do that. As an engineer and a tinkerer I have problems with that. I get to decide what operating state it’s in. If they ever do that, my car will spend nearly as much time with the LV battery disconnected as with it connected. Or maybe I just won’t buy one. ?‍?

The Tesla has an off switch for tinkerers (I am a mech engineer too).

 

[Mike G]

Key On, Engine Off on our EVs means press the start button without depressing the brake pedal.

This is the expected condition when you start a FDRS session.

FDRS tells you when to go to Key On, Engine On during the scripted sequence steps they expect you to follow. If they never tell you to fully start the car there’s probably a pretty good reason.

 

[Snakebitten]

Because I have done so many FDRS updates for a couple of Powerboost F150's, I never even considered the Mach-E KOEO as a different routine than the truck.

But I do see the nuance being discussed between the two platforms.

Having said that, both vehicles use the same starting procedure. Foot on brake and push the start momentary button. (you don't hold it down in the truck any differently than the Mach-E)

Also note that with the Powerboost, Key-on/Engine-on does NOT mean the ICE starts. If the SOC of the HV battery is sufficient, the Powerboost is very similar to the Mach-E. You don't know if you started the vehicle unless you see the green Ready on the instrument cluster.

 

[rugedraw]

Because, for ICE vehicles, they are not the same thing. Key on, engine off is the "run" position without starting the car. Accessory mode is a separate position on the ignition switch that turns on accessories, but doesn't allow the engine to run. They are two different things.

I understand what you're trying to say, but I don't think that applies. I have an ICE truck with push button start. So I cannot go into "accessory" mode because there is no physical key I could turn to accessory mode. It's either ignition on, or engine on and no other option.

 

[grein002]

It varies from vehicle to vehicle, but I bet if you push and release your start button with no brake applied, you are in acc mode. If you push and hold the start button for several seconds with no brake applied, it goes to ignition on. That is the way it is both in my 2020 Miata, as well as my former 2015 Volvo S60. You can tell the difference based on what lights / warnings appear on your instrument panel.

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