HuntingPudel

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"Shop Dog" is the most important part! ??

Dumb question: Why not use a dab of RTV silicone (dried overnight) to hold the washers onto the eye end of the shock to make installation easier? ??
 
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mkhuffman

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I see your Steeda rear sway bar is on the lightest setting. I think I will keep mine on the heaviest setting. Seems like I remember you mentioned something about that in a previous post.
 

JohnFoxeSheets

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I see your Steeda rear sway bar is on the lightest setting. I think I will keep mine on the heaviest setting. Seems like I remember you mentioned something about that in a previous post.
Yeah, I noticed that too (and that it appears they were previously set at the medium setting)...
 

azerik

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"Shop Dog" is the most important part! ??

Dumb question: Why not use a dab of RTV silicone (dried overnight) to hold the washers onto the eye end of the shock to make installation easier? ??
That could work, but really it’s only ‘hard’ when you’re holding a phone and talking while doing it.
 


azerik

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When I put the first set of QA1’s on the middle setting seemed to make the rebound a little stiffer. I was getting a lot of noise from what I thought was the bar bushings. Turns out it was the shock bushings. That said I have both sets of bars on the lightest. The car is flat in corners and just a touch of wobble when going into my neighborhood, which has this stupid drain thing built into the street, at a 20 degree angle. It sends my RH into a conniption fit wobbling. It was just a bit too harsh for something I have to drive 4 times a day usually. I like where it’s at now for pretty much everything. On the middle it was translating vibrations from one tire to the other. It’s slightly disconnected now. Not as loud when hitting a crappy man hole cover that is 2 inches sunk into asphalt. I might continue to fight the hood fight with the Viking/QA1’s but I’d have to swap the top mounts around as well, so if I did that I’d try changing the oil and valves if I could. Setting the bar light was a last ditch effort to shut up the amount of noise I was getting. And while it changed how much and how loud it didn’t solve it. The Koni’s did because of the rubber bushing on the bottom mount.

I do however still get noise from the bar bushings when hitting something big, or every time I pull in or out of my driveway.:confused: It’s the lateral movement of the bar. Still looking for a rubber ring to slip in there to try to quiet it down. Steeda never responded to my mails.
 

kennethjk

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When I put the first set of QA1’s on the middle setting seemed to make the rebound a little stiffer. I was getting a lot of noise from what I thought was the bar bushings. Turns out it was the shock bushings. That said I have both sets of bars on the lightest. The car is flat in corners and just a touch of wobble when going into my neighborhood, which has this stupid drain thing built into the street, at a 20 degree angle. It sends my RH into a conniption fit wobbling. It was just a bit too harsh for something I have to drive 4 times a day usually. I like where it’s at now for pretty much everything. On the middle it was translating vibrations from one tire to the other. It’s slightly disconnected now. Not as loud when hitting a crappy man hole cover that is 2 inches sunk into asphalt. I might continue to fight the hood fight with the Viking/QA1’s but I’d have to swap the top mounts around as well, so if I did that I’d try changing the oil and valves if I could. Setting the bar light was a last ditch effort to shut up the amount of noise I was getting. And while it changed how much and how loud it didn’t solve it. The Koni’s did because of the rubber bushing on the bottom mount.

I do however still get noise from the bar bushings when hitting something big, or every time I pull in or out of my driveway.:confused: It’s the lateral movement of the bar. Still looking for a rubber ring to slip in there to try to quiet it down. Steeda never responded to my mails.
I seem to remember you mentioning the change a while back
 

azerik

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It was actually in response to the single adjust QA1's. The compression and rebound are the same setting. It took until 5 clicks I think before they started doing much with the rebound, at 5 clicks of compression they're pretty darn hard. They've been shelved. It's a PITA to change the rear bar setting with only a floor jack.
 

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Hey thanks for the great video! What tire pressure do you usually run with on your car? Just checking because my GT felt unusually bouncy recently so I realized that it got much warmer out and thus my tire pressure was showing 42-43 at rest which was much lower a month back during winter. I reduced it to 38 all around and the ride became much much better and mellow. Honestly, hardly even noticed the bounciness after that. It is still stiff but I don't get bounced around over every other imperfection.

So just wondering what you tested it out with on your setup to gauge the difference.
 

azerik

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On the GT wheels/tires I've been running 37/39 (cold) Front/Rear. Honestly 36/36 cold worked well but with more pressure in the rears I don't get as much road 'womp' echoing through the cabin from the rear tires going over street cracks/expansion joints. When warm they are usually 40/43 maybe 40/44. The first few minutes of the drive is bouncy as the tires are the suspension at that time. Once they warm up enough they harden and the suspension starts doing the work. Usually 5 to 10 minutes into a drive.

On the Prem AS3's I was running 32/35 cold. They had harder sidewalls so the tire was firmer with a lower pressure. The 27 to 32 psi thing for the Prem tires is pretty much trying to use the tire as 1/2 the front suspension as it soaks up the bumps easier than the stiff front springs.

Also to note. My tpms reads 2 psi higher than reality so the pressure I'm stating is with a decent gauge, not the tpms. If it was 42+ cold they were nearly maxed at temp and quite hard. The trick is the right amount of give in the tire to take imperfections but not so little the suspension doesn't work.
 
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markboris

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Hey thanks for the great video! What tire pressure do you usually run with on your car? Just checking because my GT felt unusually bouncy recently so I realized that it got much warmer out and thus my tire pressure was showing 42-43 at rest which was much lower a month back during winter. I reduced it to 38 all around and the ride became much much better and mellow. Honestly, hardly even noticed the bounciness after that. It is still stiff but I don't get bounced around over every other imperfection.

So just wondering what you tested it out with on your setup to gauge the difference.
Everyone that was testing ran different tire pressures while testing. I know Erik tried different pressures to see how it would react and I'm sure he will comment.

One thing you should know, not everyone has the same size tires so pressures will be different. Anton runs 255/45/20 so he does not need to run 39 psi for the proper load spec. He can get away with 37 psi making for a more comfortable ride. I have a few friends running 265/45/20's and they run 34 psi. I am currently running 255/45 front and 285/40 rear so my pressures are 37 front, 33 rear.

I would run what you like best for comfort and handling and try to stay within 1-2 psi for the proper load rating for your tire size.

Edit: I see Erik replied just before I posted this.
 

mikenindorf

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They most likely know because of Mark speaking with them.

The Koni’s came in yesterday, I’m going to try to ‘pop’ them on this morning. I don’t have a life and actually remove the tires but I have it down to about 15 min a side.

QA1, Viking and Koni have all been well informed lol.
thanks.. I am getting tired for my head getting bounced of my head rest...
 

sci_goat

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Hi @markboris ,

I've got a question about enlarging the whole in the upper mount with a 1/2" drill. Will a cordless drill be enough? I've never drilled metal before.
 
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markboris

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Hi @markboris ,

I've got a question about enlarging the whole in the upper mount with a 1/2" drill. Will a cordless drill be enough? I've never drilled metal before.
Hi Chris, All I use are cordless tools and yes a cordless drill is fine. The issue is the drill bit being used. The metal you are drilling in that upper mount is fairly hard steel and somewhat thick so you need a very good drill bit. The upper mount on the OEM GT shock has a larger hole than the one on the non-GT shock so with a good bit you can just drill it out. Upper mounts on non GT shocks have a smaller hole and would be best to start with a 7/16" drill bit then move up to 1/2".
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