What About Ceramic Coating?

Maric

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Stunning 3 you have there. I bet you are happy about the free range increase you just got. I just watched a guy drive 40 minutes on FSD beta in L.A. It was incredible and I hope the MachE can come somewhat close to the same experience.
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VegStang

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The only reason I would wrap an entire car would be to change color, or go all flat, and would really be difficult since the cost is so high, the car is already more expensive than anything else I have purchased other than a house.

I bet this car would look amazing with flat paint.

The installer I use has years of experience cutting on car so the install is almost imperceptible (you can see it with polarized sunglasses in the sun.) The film is applied using water, dish soap and alcohol- and making sure you don't cut through the film into the paint or leave bubbles or haze is what you pay for. With a bit of experience I have done smaller piece installs like the black window frames, door edge (doesn't require water, basically tape) and templates for the HOV stickers. The labor is what you pay for, but I would agree that you have to be obsessive about vehicle appearance to have it done because of the cost. There are places that do computer pattern installs (like dealers) but those aren't as nice although you get the protection for less $$$.

I get protection for the front end, door handle cups, door edges, and usually the top of the back bumper for when loading items to prevent scratches. It's just superior to anything else, but does NOT negate the need for cleaning, waxing. The first 2 installs I had done were 3M and the reflection was not the same when compared to the freshly waxed paint. The van I had done with a different film has the same reflective quality and appearance.

You can remove the film pretty easily with a heat gun or hair dryer starting at an edge, it peels away and any adhesive residue is easily removed with soap/water and or cleaner wax. I've only had to do that when taking the 3M film off headlight lenses after they slightly yellowed with years of age, and also with the carpool stickers (the PPF works great under those so you don't have to deal with the leftover sticker/adhesive when they expire- they just come off cleanly.)

I think the cost for my van, full hood, bumper, side mirrors, door edges, rear bumper piece, door handle cups was $1100 (cash).

Agreed! It could cost more to wrap a car in clear plastic than it does to repaint the whole car.

I'm still trying to figure out how it is that soft, clear plastic sheets costs so much to apply, how they're superior to the alternative (paint touch up and polishing/buffing/waxing, etc.), what are all the downsides to it in terms of shine/reflection/sharpness, cost of removal, and so on.

I don't know much about car care stuff (yet!) but so far it seems like I should just rinse, shampoo, and occasionally wax.
 
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ChasingCoral

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Now that's a red!
 

ChasingCoral

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The only reason I would wrap an entire car would be to change color, or go all flat, and would really be difficult since the cost is so high, the car is already more expensive than anything else I have purchased other than a house.

I bet this car would look amazing with flat paint.

The installer I use has years of experience cutting on car so the install is almost imperceptible (you can see it with polarized sunglasses in the sun.) The film is applied using water, dish soap and alcohol- and making sure you don't cut through the film into the paint or leave bubbles or haze is what you pay for. With a bit of experience I have done smaller piece installs like the black window frames, door edge (doesn't require water, basically tape) and templates for the HOV stickers. The labor is what you pay for, but I would agree that you have to be obsessive about vehicle appearance to have it done because of the cost. There are places that do computer pattern installs (like dealers) but those aren't as nice although you get the protection for less $$$.

I get protection for the front end, door handle cups, door edges, and usually the top of the back bumper for when loading items to prevent scratches. It's just superior to anything else, but does NOT negate the need for cleaning, waxing. The first 2 installs I had done were 3M and the reflection was not the same when compared to the freshly waxed paint. The van I had done with a different film has the same reflective quality and appearance.

You can remove the film pretty easily with a heat gun or hair dryer starting at an edge, it peels away and any adhesive residue is easily removed with soap/water and or cleaner wax. I've only had to do that when taking the 3M film off headlight lenses after they slightly yellowed with years of age, and also with the carpool stickers (the PPF works great under those so you don't have to deal with the leftover sticker/adhesive when they expire- they just come off cleanly.)

I think the cost for my van, full hood, bumper, side mirrors, door edges, rear bumper piece, door handle cups was $1100 (cash).
It really makes sense to get the back bumper piece as it is also plastic and our Leaf has been nailed as badly in the back as the front.
 

imstriker

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Honestly, the Turtle Wax Maric mentioned earlier is unbelievable stuff. I put it on my black Gladiator because I' didn't want to go all in and was sick of it never really being black. So far, about a month in, the stuff is amazing. I found out about it on the Project Farm YouTube channel (which can waste hours of your life). It's great on the side of my boat so far too. Really impressed for a "low-end" product.
 


jhalkias

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The expense of having this done is killing me. I think after reading what you guys have posted, and watching several videos, I am just going to take the day off the day I get the car, buy all the supplies, and try and do most of this (no wrapping - I wouldn't even consider doing that myself - I can't even get a cover on my iPad without bubbles) myself. My garage is heated, so I will just put the one car outside, wash, clay bar, and perhaps use that turtle wax ceramic coating myself.

The only thing I really worry about is rock chips on the front, and my 5 year old Escape has its fair share of those. I will just have to live with that.
 

Kamuelaflyer

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The expense of having this done is killing me. I think after reading what you guys have posted, and watching several videos, I am just going to take the day off the day I get the car, buy all the supplies, and try and do most of this (no wrapping - I wouldn't even consider doing that myself - I can't even get a cover on my iPad without bubbles) myself. My garage is heated, so I will just put the one car outside, wash, clay bar, and perhaps use that turtle wax ceramic coating myself.

The only thing I really worry about is rock chips on the front, and my 5 year old Escape has its fair share of those. I will just have to live with that.
using a DIY ceramic coating, such as Avalon King's, will take a bit longer but will last a lot longer presuming regular washing and cleaning. I did two coats (to ensure 100% coverage) in two days -- about 90 minutes maximum per day is all.


There are a zillion options for our cars, most of them good. :)
 

jhalkias

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using a DIY ceramic coating, such as Avalon King's, will take a bit longer but will last a lot longer presuming regular washing and cleaning. I did two coats (to ensure 100% coverage) in two days -- about 90 minutes maximum per day is all.


There are a zillion options for our cars, most of them good. :)
The other good thing is that the car will be in MY garage where I can still pretend I am driving it. Not in some detailer's shop for several days.
 

ClaudeMach-E

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XPEL Is the way to go if you can afford it. If you do a ceramic coat, you still have you keep it clean and washed. The xpel is more forgiving and can protect against some harsh conditions.
It does cost and is not cheap. I plan on doing the whole front of the mache and a-pillars.
between 1,200 to 1,500 will be the cost.
You can also Ceramic coat OVER PPF not under
 

methorian

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I'm still leaning towards XPEL on the front and a-pillars. My commute has left many chips on my front bumper and one on each a-pillar of my current car.

I'll probably put some sort of ceramic coat on it myself after getting the XPEL done.
 

ClaudeMach-E

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In PPF there is also 3M that makes a good one too. Has for those of you that are not detailing their cars a lot and don't want to put on a Ceramic coating , now there's Graphene coating and spray that you can use once a year, it is less expansive then Ceramic, but does an excellent job, just wash the car thoroughly and apply. Watch this, I think I'll go that way because here in winter if you don't have a garage forget weekly cleaning. He also has a comparison video between 3 different Graphene product :)
 

ChasingCoral

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I'm still leaning towards XPEL on the front and a-pillars. My commute has left many chips on my front bumper and one on each a-pillar of my current car.

I'll probably put some sort of ceramic coat on it myself after getting the XPEL done.
I also think it makes sense to XPEL the back bumper piece (runs tire to tire) as well. It's plastic. If the painted plastic on the MME is anything like the leaf, it will get lots of cuts through to the black plastic underneath.

I'm also thinking the wheel lips for the First Edition as these are painted as well.

And mirrors too.
 

methorian

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I also think it makes sense to XPEL the back bumper piece (runs tire to tire) as well. It's plastic. If the painted plastic on the MME is anything like the leaf, it will get lots of cuts through to the black plastic underneath.

I'm also thinking the wheel lips for the First Edition as these are painted as well.

And mirrors too.
You're right about mirrors for sure. Will depend on pricing I guess in regards to the rear bumper for me. Haven't had any issues there on my Veloster, but I may at least do the lip below the hatch - diry rainwater likes to collect there, and it'd be nice to wipe it away without fear of scratching paint.
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