What is the real mileage

[Sir Barton]

In the past couple of weeks, charging at home and driving strictly locally, our Mach E is indicating a capacity in the upper 270s and lower 280s. Not that we need it for running around town. But when I lock in directions for our road to Atlanta next month, I am fairly certain the capacity will drop to the low 200s or less. Like it did when we set out for the Carolina mountains in June. I have noticed, however, when I use Blue Cruise and drive somewhere near the speed limit on roadtrips, the mileage capacity appears to increase slightly. This is indicated by a slight uptick in the available mileage in the battery's charge vs. the distance to our destination. Does anyone know what is the real available mileage? I understand the concept, but this technology is still a little over my head.
Thanks.

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[RickMachE]

In the past couple of weeks, charging at home and driving strictly locally, our Mach E is indicating a capacity in the upper 270s and lower 280s. Not that we need it for running out town. But when I lock in directions for our road to Atlanta next month, I am fairly certain the capacity will drop to the low 200s or less. Like it did when we set out for the Carolina mountains in June. I have noticed, however, when I use Blue Cruise and drive somewhere near the speed limit on roadtrips, the mileage capacity appears to increase slightly. This is indicated by a slight uptick in the available mileage in the battery's charge vs. the distance to our destination. Does anyone know what is the real available mileage? I understand the concept, but this technology is still a little over my head.
Thanks.

When you drive the vehicle, you achieve a miles per kilowatt hour. That's displayed in "This Trip", "Trip 1" and "Trip 2". Like with a gas car, local efficiency is different than highway. With an EV, it's the opposite - local driving is MORE EFFICIENT than highway driving.

The GOM (GuessOMeter) is like the DTE (Distance to Empty) on your gas car, using your historical driving to predict the future. The difference is the GOM uses current temperatures to predict. So, while your gas car may say 300 today and 300 tomorrow even though the temp dropped to 20 degrees, the GOM will say 300 today and 225 tomorrow.

Now, you get in the car and put in a trip to the navigation. That destination is accounted for by the GOM, and it PREDICTS your range using temperature, weather (i.e. raining), whether you're going up, or going down, and the predicted speed on the route. So 300 drops to say 250.

Then, you start driving. You go faster or slower than it predicted, you have a headwind or a tailwind, and it adjusts while you are driving to both a) account for the miles you've driven and b) repredict your efficiency. If you drive at 80, it will drop quickly. If you drive at 60, it will go up.

When I plan a trip, I use my "highway efficiency" of 2.9 to 3.0 miles per kilowatt to plan. I actually round down, and plan on a bit less and use 2.7. 91 x 2.7 = 246 miles of range between 0 and 100%.

In the winter, I use 2.3 to plan.

Hope that helps.

 

[Sir Barton]

When you drive the vehicle, you achieve a miles per kilowatt hour. That's displayed in "This Trip", "Trip 1" and "Trip 2". Like with a gas car, local efficiency is different than highway. With an EV, it's the opposite - local driving is MORE EFFICIENT than highway driving.

The GOM (GuessOMeter) is like the DTE (Distance to Empty) on your gas car, using your historical driving to predict the future. The difference is the GOM uses current temperatures to predict. So, while your gas car may say 300 today and 300 tomorrow even though the temp dropped to 20 degrees, the GOM will say 300 today and 225 tomorrow.

Now, you get in the car and put in a trip to the navigation. That destination is accounted for by the GOM, and it PREDICTS your range using temperature, weather (i.e. raining), whether you're going up, or going down, and the predicted speed on the route. So 300 drops to say 250.

Then, you start driving. You go faster or slower than it predicted, you have a headwind or a tailwind, and it adjusts while you are driving to both a) account for the miles you've driven and b) repredict your efficiency. If you drive at 80, it will drop quickly. If you drive at 60, it will go up.

When I plan a trip, I use my "highway efficiency" of 2.9 to 3.0 miles per kilowatt to plan. I actually round down, and plan on a bit less and use 2.7. 91 x 2.7 = 246 miles of range between 0 and 100%.

In the winter, I use 2.3 to plan.

Hope that helps.

It helps tremendously. Thanks for the lesson! I've got some studying to do before that next road trip.

 

[RickMachE]

It helps tremendously. Thanks for the lesson! I've got some studying to do before that next road trip.

Try using ABRP (A Better Route Planner). Put the vehicle into the settings. Then play with it (I like doing the PC version vs. the app).

Make sure you look up every location on PlugShare.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Yeah, you should use a route planner like ABRP or Apple Maps.

If you drive a constant 70 MPH on flat terrain the actual range will be close to 270 miles. But with buffers you probably want to stop and charge about every 175 miles.

 

[Sir Barton]

Try using ABRP (A Better Route Planner). Put the vehicle into the settings. Then play with it (I like doing the PC version vs. the app).

Make sure you look up every location on PlugShare.

I will give ABRP a try. Thanks. Yeah, I basically use PlugShare to route myself from one charge station to the next on road trips. Very helpful.

 

[Sir Barton]

Yeah, you should use a route planner like ABRP or Apple Maps.

If you drive a constant 70 MPH on flat terrain the actual range will be close to 270 miles. But with buffers you probably want to stop and charge about every 175 miles.

That is about how I try to space it.. Thanks

 

[kodiakng]

I will give ABRP a try. Thanks. Yeah, I basically use PlugShare to route myself from one charge station to the next on road trips. Very helpful.

plugshare's web app also has a decent quick-n-dirty trip planner too. if you plan a trip on the web app it shows up in the mobile app.

also, you may not see as much range effect in GA for this, but elevation gain is another factor to keep in mind for future planning.

 

[lehr21]

Speaking about ABRP. Has anyone tried the paid version? I tried to use it while connected with CarPlay and it says I need to pay :-(

 

[kennethjk]

Speaking about ABRP. Has anyone tried the paid version? I tried to use it while connected with CarPlay and it says I need to pay :-(

I have the pay version but rarely use while driving . I do use to plan the trip ahead of time.

 

[RickMachE]

I don't have the paid version, and in 2 years haven't seen a reason to pay for it.

 

[RickMachE]

I will give ABRP a try. Thanks. Yeah, I basically use PlugShare to route myself from one charge station to the next on road trips. Very helpful.

That's a really cumbersome way to take a trip, going from point A to point B to point C. I think you'll find ABRP way better.

 

[kennethjk]

I just drove from NY to cape Cod a 240 mile trip. drove no faster than 67 mph and achieved 3.5 miles per kW, equivalent to over 300 miles range. Second time I achieved that this summer, GOM showed only 270 before I left on trip .

Not much elevation change and some rain but not much. no traffic at all until we hit the cape and then a lot over the bridge due to a tractor trailer breakdown.

car was loaded for a weeks vacation and 2 adults in the car.

I normally use 3.1 miles per KW as a guide.

Filled up locally on cape at EA station and went from 27% to 80% in 29 minutes.

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