Improving The Ride-OEM Rally Springs/Eibach Sway Bars-Members List

[markboris]

Is there a way to know this before I do all this? Did you already have new ones on hand. I am a bit worried about having to do everything twice if mine are bad. I am at 77k miles so worried I might be int he same boat.

One other thing, Is there any issue with doing new springs and then sometime in the future doing the Eibach sway bars? Or, do I need the sway bars with these springs right away?

I know you asked Erik these questions but I am going to give you my suggestions.

About the shocks, some here have gone well over 100K miles and their shocks are still good while others have had one or more go bad in less than 40K miles. If you plan to keep the car for many more miles, might be a good idea to replace them with the newest versions ('25 models and up). Erik would be able to supply you with the part numbers on those.

As far as doing the bars at the same time, you do not have to although pretty much everyone here except many one or two have not. It is cheaper to have them done at the same time for sure since you are already in the same area and you have to remove the end links on the bars to do the springs. Installing the bars when doing the springs adds just an extra hour or maybe a bit more. Doing them separately is at least 2 hours or more since all the wheels have to come off again and the rear lower cover has to be removed again. The bars serve two purposes. One, they will further give you a smoother, less bouncy ride because of the way they are mounted compared to the OEM bars and they will give you better handling. Remember, when replacing your OEM springs with the Rally's, the car will be softer and handle WORSE than it does now. You want to bring that handling back and then some and the bars do this. They also lessen the side to side wobble.

Sponsored

 

[azerik]

Is there a way to know this before I do all this? Did you already have new ones on hand. I am a bit worried about having to do everything twice if mine are bad. I am at 77k miles so worried I might be int he same boat.

One other thing, Is there any issue with doing new springs and then sometime in the future doing the Eibach sway bars? Or, do I need the sway bars with these springs right away?

Sadly no way to know for sure, but if you are on the OEM struts I figure they died back sometimes 3 years ago. More so if you're lowered with the Eibach springs. At 77k I'd consider it well worth the replacement. You'd want to replace the bearings, bumpstops and bellows as well which is about another $75 ~$100 a strut. But you could build the struts with the rally springs ahead of time and that'd cut a good hour or more off the front end time.

You can do the bars after the fact, but I can tell you that the rally springs will allow more side to side wobble over things. The stock sway bars are probably either really soft or really hard depending on how the rubber has aged. At a minimum I'd try to get the rear bar at the same time.

 

[txaggies07]

Sadly no way to know for sure, but if you are on the OEM struts I figure they died back sometimes 3 years ago. More so if you're lowered with the Eibach springs. At 77k I'd consider it well worth the replacement. You'd want to replace the bearings, bumpstops and bellows as well which is about another $75 ~$100 a strut. But you could build the struts with the rally springs ahead of time and that'd cut a good hour or more off the front end time.

You can do the bars after the fact, but I can tell you that the rally springs will allow more side to side wobble over things. The stock sway bars are probably either really soft or really hard depending on how the rubber has aged. At a minimum I'd try to get the rear bar at the same time.

Thanks. Do you have the part numbers I would need to build the struts in advance? I can at least test the rears I have pulled off from when I did the Koni mod.

 

[txaggies07]

I know you asked Erik these questions but I am going to give you my suggestions.

About the shocks, some here have gone well over 100K miles and their shocks are still good while others have had one or more go bad in less than 40K miles. If you plan to keep the car for many more miles, might be a good idea to replace them with the newest versions ('25 models and up). Erik would be able to supply you with the part numbers on those.

As far as doing the bars at the same time, you do not have to although pretty much everyone here except many one or two have not. It is cheaper to have them done at the same time for sure since you are already in the same area and you have to remove the end links on the bars to do the springs. Installing the bars when doing the springs adds just an extra hour or maybe a bit more. Doing them separately is at least 2 hours or more since all the wheels have to come off again and the rear lower cover has to be removed again. The bars serve two purposes. One, they will further give you a smoother, less bouncy ride because of the way they are mounted compared to the OEM bars and they will give you better handling. Remember, when replacing your OEM springs with the Rally's, the car will be softer and handle WORSE than it does now. You want to bring that handling back and then some and the bars do this. They also lessen the side to side wobble.

I almost tagged you, but I knew without even doing that you would jump in as always! Thank you!

 

[azerik]

If you can push down on the rear shocks you pulled off and they come right back up they're shot. On the new rear shocks I (all 265lbs) couldn't push the shock half way down with my weight. When I pulled my rear shocks off I could fully compress them with my arms (and I'm not a body builder).

RockAuto:
Strut Bearing: motocraft AD1231 (1 for each strut) $35 each
Strut bump stop: AD1204 (1 for each strut) $14 each
Strut hat (the mount) Motocraft AD1175 (1 for each strut) $35 each
Fordoemdirect.com:
ASH-866290 (Superceeds the LJ9Z number) Right strut $145
ASH-866308 (Superceeds the LJ9Z number) Left strut $145
JX6Z18A047A (strut dustcover) (one for each strut) $24
W710645-S440 Top nut, (one for each strut) $2
jx6z5415c. Top pad (one for each strut) $24
LX6Z-5414-A lower pad (one for each strut) $11

That said, if you can afford the hour it takes to swap from the old struts to the new you can reuse most of the parts listed above from the old 'saving' about $200. I'd replace the bearings for sure though.

Rear shock (if you took it off as much as I did. Which was around 35 times. I only replaced to keep the dealer quiet about 'fiddling around with the suspension')

W720238S439

Shock Lower Bolt

$1.51

 

[txaggies07]

You are the best. That is quite a bit of stuff, so looks like I will just do it all in one go.

Does this mod get rid of the hard jolts? I go over quite a few places where I feel a hard bump (that usually knocks out my cruise control for a minute).

If you can push down on the rear shocks you pulled off and they come right back up they're shot. On the new rear shocks I (all 265lbs) couldn't push the shock half way down with my weight. When I pulled my rear shocks off I could fully compress them with my arms (and I'm not a body builder).

RockAuto:
Strut Bearing: motocraft AD1231 (1 for each strut) $35 each
Strut bump stop: AD1204 (1 for each strut) $14 each
Strut hat (the mount) Motocraft AD1175 (1 for each strut) $35 each
Fordoemdirect.com:
ASH-866290 (Superceeds the LJ9Z number) Right strut $145
ASH-866308 (Superceeds the LJ9Z number) Left strut $145
JX6Z18A047A (strut dustcover) (one for each strut) $24
W710645-S440 Top nut, (one for each strut) $2
jx6z5415c. Top pad (one for each strut) $24
LX6Z-5414-A lower pad (one for each strut) $11

That said, if you can afford the hour it takes to swap from the old struts to the new you can reuse most of the parts listed above from the old 'saving' about $200. I'd replace the bearings for sure though.

Rear shock (if you took it off as much as I did. Which was around 35 times. I only replaced to keep the dealer quiet about 'fiddling around with the suspension')
W720238S439Shock Lower Bolt$1.51

 

[jksu]

yes! often get lunch at a number of great thai restaurants all walking distance from the shop either while waiting for a tire rotation, etc. or on my way there to pick up the car. favorite is sanamluang. love their soup noodles.

Not to derail too much, but that is in Thai Town. What’s your Favorite Thai joint around there.

 

[azerik]

Yes. And my BC HF doesn't kick out over bumps. There's some stuff that used to just launch the car, no longer does. In trade off it wobbles side to side a little more (the bars help resolve that) I'm running the lightest setting on the Eibach bars. Could probably up it to the firmer setting.

My 'yeehaaw giddiup' freeway transition is actually handled better by my MME than my RX450h now. And speedbumps, you can, drive over them. Instead of crawling and spilling your coffee all over trying to be as careful as possible.

 

[PA Bob]

Did you read my first post of this thread? 25 of the 32 members I listed that have done this mod all have Mach-E's that are between the years '21-'23. So yes, you can add these springs and bars to every year, ever model Mach-E that has been built so far.

As far as range loss, I personally have not noticed any at all. Out of the 32 members I know that have done this, I think one or two mentioned they "think" there has been a slight loss of range. Obviously it cannot be much if no one has complained about it let alone hardly anyone has mentioned it. Besides not noticing a range loss when lifting the car, I have installed MANY lowering springs on the Mach-E since '21. I just completed a job yesterday for a member (Eibach lowering springs and sway bars). None of these owners have ever said that lowering their car increased their range. I don't think lifting or lowering a car one inch changes the aerodynamics of the car that much that you can see a difference in range that can be noticed.

Can anyone suggest a shop where I can take my '21 premium to get this done? I'm in Broomall, PA outside of Philadelphia. I'm not sure I should take this just anywhere to get this done. My dealership has been ok, but I haven't really had much done to the car except upgrades and inspections.

 

[GreaseMonkey]

Going to try this post again

Hi all,

Has anyone in the Chicagoland done this to their mach-e? Would welcome the opportunity to take a ride with you to get a cup of coffee (on me of course).

Also if you did do it did you do it on your own or did you take it to a shop thanks again for your help.
Dan

Dan, I’m thinking about it. I’m in north center. Was waiting to see if the repairs on the rear end collision turned out good enough to keep the car. So far, I’d say back to factory condition. So I’ll be looking for a mechanic once my to-do list winds down a bit. Certainly before the summer.

 

[Dan the Man]

Steve thanks for your reply. Please keep me posted and good luck.

 

[McSquashy]

I've been eyeing the Rally springs for a few months now. I decided last night that I was ready to pull the trigger until I discovered how much they recently jumped in price!

Any chance they come back down in price?

Edit: The first screenshot is from December 29th and the second is from yesterday.

 

[DeusEx]

@McSquashy, I think it's highly unlikely.

The cheapest it has been was when @giwu42 first alerted us to the mod. Since then, prices have continually creeped upwards. I also monitored the price for a few months before I upgraded, and even on Black Friday, the prices did not drop.

 

[McSquashy]

@McSquashy, I think it's highly unlikely.

The cheapest it has been was when @giwu42 first alerted us to the mod. Since then, prices have continually creeped upwards. I also monitored the price for a few months before I upgraded, and even on Black Friday, the prices did not drop.

Had a feeling that would be the likely answer. Bummer.

Guess the best I can hope for is a parts discount code from Ford.

I would have jumped on them in December had I known and they were going to spike in price in just a couple months.

 

[giwu42]

@McSquashy, I think it's highly unlikely.

The cheapest it has been was when @giwu42 first alerted us to the mod. Since then, prices have continually creeped upwards. I also monitored the price for a few months before I upgraded, and even on Black Friday, the prices did not drop.

i wonder if someone at ford noticed that people were buying a bunch of rally springs and upped the price haha. Most likely bc of supply chain and tariffs though

Sponsored