Mach-E Aftermarket wheel and tire information and pictures

[MMXX500]

One thing I didn't like about my 9.5" on my last car, although they handled very well, was that it seemed to want to wobble over all the tire groves in the road. They must be ever so slight because you can't visually see them, but you can feel them pull the car around at times.

I did wonder about this too, tires could make a difference also? I went with a slightly smaller setup than Mark is planning - 20x9" squared 265/40/21. I drove down to Sacramento today for the first time since the wheel and tire swap, happy to report the car drove great - even over all the really bad parts of the motorway, no pulling or swaying/vibrations etc. I would think the slightly larger setup should be very similar to mine but with the added handling benefits.

Sponsored

 

[markboris]

One thing I didn't like about my 9.5" on my last car, although they handled very well, was that it seemed to want to wobble over all the tire groves in the road. They must be ever so slight because you can't visually see them, but you can feel them pull the car around at times.

Hi Harry, I think it would have more to do with the type of tire you are running. I say that because I have definitely had tires that wobble because of grooves in the road and ones that don't on the same exact road. Wider tires might accentuate this but so far, with the 10" wide wheel with 295/40's on the back, never had this issue with the Mach-E. I have changed out the tires several times testing and fitting with Michelin Latitude Sport 3, Pilot Sport SUV, Pilot Sport 4s, Pirelli P-Zero and Pirelli P-Zero All Season Plus and not had an issue with tire wobble. This is an always ongoing thing for me changing and testing wheels and tires. I enjoy doing it but it's time consuming and a little expensive. ?

 

[harrysiii]

Hi Harry, I think it would have more to do with the type of tire you are running. I say that because I have definitely had tires that wobble because of grooves in the road and ones that don't on the same exact road. Wider tires might accentuate this but so far, with the 10" wide wheel with 295/40's on the back, never had this issue with the Mach-E. I have changed out the tires several times testing and fitting with Michelin Latitude Sport 3, Pilot Sport SUV, Pilot Sport 4s, Pirelli P-Zero and Pirelli P-Zero All Season Plus and not had an issue with tire wobble. This is an always ongoing thing for me changing and testing wheels and tires. I enjoy doing it but it's time consuming and a little expensive. ?

That's a very interesting thought. They were Hancook Ventus V12. I almost think 10" (or wider) might behave better than 9.5"....as in, maybe they are wide enough to traverse the entire slope of the supposed groove?

 

[Hasan]

The thing is, you can run quite large sized wheels and tires on the Mach-E however it comes with a certain amount of poke. I personally do not like poke at all. I know quite a few members here are like me in that regard. The trick for me is to get a decent sized tire that will not interfere with suspension or the wheel wells and has no poke (flush with the fender molding or in a bit).

On my Premium I had 295/40/20 in the rear and and 265/45/20 in the front. That was the max I could go in the rear without any rubbing and it was a flush fit (no poke). The front had a bit more room for me to play with. Right now on my GT I am running 285/40/20 rear and 255/45/20 front because I wanted a different type of tire and those were the sizes I had to go with. I am working on building a square setup with 275/35/21 all around. That will get me the max size I can go in the front without poke and while I would like something larger in the rear, I want a square setup this time.

I am picking this size tire because it is the same size diameter as OEM but much wider and above all, it has to do with the type of tire I can get in that size. Pirelli makes a P-Zero Elect PNCS tire specifically for EV cars in that size used by Porsche for the Taycan and the Tesla Model S. Not only are they low rolling resistance tires but also are acoustically quieter. Michelin also makes their Pilot Sport EV Acoustic tire in this size, however it is not available yet in the US, only in Europe and other countries as of now. I have put this project aside for a bit as I have others I need to work on but hopefully by summer should have it completed.

Thank you for the reply. I personally like the aggressive look of having a poke. I also like the ability to get a square set up from this.

you dont see any issues with my set up though do you?

20x10.5 squared and 275/40/20 tires with 2mm spacers

 

[markboris]

Thank you for the reply. I personally like the aggressive look of having a poke. I also like the ability to get a square set up from this.

you dont see any issues with my set up though do you?

20x10.5 squared and 275/40/20 tires with 2mm spacers

What offset will your 20x10.5 wheels have? Why are you going with such a wide wheels with 275's?

 

[metoo]

21x9 40mm offest hubcentric Stance wheels with 255/40/21 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires all around. I'll share pics of the car and wheels after I wash it. I was affraid the tire would look stretched because of pics I've see of other 9"wide wheels with 255s on them, but nope!

 

[RetiredDP]

Thank you for the reply. I personally like the aggressive look of having a poke. I also like the ability to get a square set up from this.

you dont see any issues with my set up though do you?

20x10.5 squared and 275/40/20 tires with 2mm spacers

After my 1st attempt at fitting a larger wheel didn’t work (forum members reported using 20x10 with a 47mm offset, WHICH WILL NOT WORK), I hired a fitter who HAS installed bigger wheels on a Mach-E GTPE. The mfr. recommended wheel width for my 275/40/20’s is 9-10”. 10.5” would be too wide. I’m using 9.5” with the same size tire. Also, why would you use spacers? Spec your wheel with the right offset and no spacers will be needed. The correct offset is CRUCIAL.

 

[mtxpert]

would the 20x9 +38 offset clear everything in the GTPE? Any concerns (related to post just before this)?

I don't know until my GTPE shows up sometime between March and July

 

[dtbaker61]

After my 1st attempt at fitting a larger wheel didn’t work (forum members reported using 20x10 with a 47mm offset, WHICH WILL NOT WORK), I hired a fitter who HAS installed bigger wheels on a Mach-E GTPE. The mfr. recommended wheel width for my 275/40/20’s is 9-10”. 10.5” would be too wide. I’m using 9.5” with the same size tire. Also, why would you use spacers? Spec your wheel with the right offset and no spacers will be needed. The correct offset is CRUCIAL.

why do you WANT to go that wide ?
the MME will never be a track car, you might as well be 'moderate' and go for the easy fit.

 

[RetiredDP]

why do you WANT to go that wide ?
the MME will never be a track car, you might as well be 'moderate' and go for the easy fit.

I don’t compete on the “track”…I compete in autocross. There, torque is king, and my Mach-E GTPE has 634 lb/ft…way more than a Tesla Model 3 Performance. The Teslas compete w/275mm width tires…which is why I’m stuffing 275’s into my car. I’m having custom wheels with a custom staggered-offset (front offset is different from the rears) built as we speak, to allow 275’s to fit.

 

[Polar]

Alright Wheel Experts - Help me your me best hope! I’ve been reading about what others have installed and ran with - I’m hoping I’m not way off base here. The only things I know I’ll need to add are TPMS and some hubcentric rings; but that’s all I can think; I’m likely missing something else.

These will be going on my RWD SR Select. If the rears are too wide in all y’all’s opinion I’ll just sit on a 20x9 square set up using the below 20x9 and 245/45. My concerns with the staggered setup are what clearances I will or will not have with the 10.5 and 275 in the rear on the 45mm offset/7.52 backspacing wheels. Also the 10.5 may be too wide for 275 - from what I’ve been reading in the past few pages, is that the consensus? These where are “available” in 20x10” width per mfg but I’ve never seen them available; possibly a special order kinda deal.

Looking to run staggered - 20x9/20x10.5 here are full spec measurements of the wheels and tires-

WHEELS​

Wheel Diameter: 20​

Wheel Width: 9 & 10.5​

Backspacing: 6.38 & 7.52​

Bolt Pattern: 5x4.25​

Offset: 35mm & 45mm​

Hub Bore: 74.10​

Load Rating: 1800​

TIRES​

Size: 245/45R20 & 275/40R20​

Aspect Ratio: 45 & 40​

Inflated Diameter: 28.66​

Inflated Width: 9.65 & 10.83​

Load Index: 103 & 106​

Load Range: XL​

Max Load Pressure: 3768@50 & 4616@50​

Service Description: 103W & 106W​

Speed Index: W​

And since it’ll be asked - I’m looking at Verde VFF02 and Firehawk Indy 500

Thanks in advance for any and all advice and input!

 

[markboris]

Alright Wheel Experts - Help me your me best hope! I’ve been reading about what others have installed and ran with - I’m hoping I’m not way off base here. The only things I know I’ll need to add are TPMS and some hubcentric rings; but that’s all I can think; I’m likely missing something else.

These will be going on my RWD SR Select. If the rears are too wide in all y’all’s opinion I’ll just sit on a 20x9 square set up using the below 20x9 and 245/45. My concerns with the staggered setup are what clearances I will or will not have with the 10.5 and 275 in the rear on the 45mm offset/7.52 backspacing wheels. Also the 10.5 may be too wide for 275 - from what I’ve been reading in the past few pages, is that the consensus? These where are “available” in 20x10” width per mfg but I’ve never seen them available; possibly a special order kinda deal.

Looking to run staggered - 20x9/20x10.5 here are full spec measurements of the wheels and tires-

WHEELS​

Wheel Diameter: 20​

Wheel Width: 9 & 10.5​

Backspacing: 6.38 & 7.52​

Bolt Pattern: 5x4.25​

Offset: 35mm & 45mm​

Hub Bore: 74.10​

Load Rating: 1800​

TIRES​

Size: 245/45R20 & 275/40R20​

Aspect Ratio: 45 & 40​

Inflated Diameter: 28.66​

Inflated Width: 9.65 & 10.83​

Load Index: 103 & 106​

Load Range: XL​

Max Load Pressure: 3768@50 & 4616@50​

Service Description: 103W & 106W​

Speed Index: W​

And since it’ll be asked - I’m looking at Verde VFF02 and Firehawk Indy 500

Thanks in advance for any and all advice and input!

To answer one of your questions about using a 10.5" wheel with 275's, that is totally doable and most manufactures including Firestone, the one you want to go with, suggests a range from 9"-11". However, when you run a tire on the upper range of the recommended wheel width, my personal opinion is the sidewalls look a little stretched and I am not a fan of that look. I also don't like bulging sidewalls either. I tend to stick with using wheel widths that are right in the middle of the suggested size or one step narrower which is usually where the TireRack tests their wheel/tire setups.

Your staggered full spec measurements are very similar to my current setup and I will give you the approximate differences between the two. Both our setups are 20". My wheels are one size smaller than yours at 8.5" front, 10" rear. My tires are two sizes larger than yours at 255/45 front, 295/40 rear. Your offsets, 35, 45 and mine are 34, 47. I have no problem with any rubbing or suspension interference with this current setup.

Also want to mention sidewall design vary between manufacturers and their model of tire. For instance, all Pirelli tires I've used have always had a rounded sidewall. My Michelin Latitude Sport 3's have a slightly flatter rounded sidewall where as my Pilot Sport 4s's have a very flat sidewall. That being said, you can have the same size tire between different manufactures or models and the sidewall can protrude more or less depending on the design of the sidewall. On my Focus RS, I had a Pilot Sport 4s that had a very close fit in the rear (inner sidewall to shock) but worked just fine. At one point, I replaced them with Pirelli Z-Zero's and they wouldn't fit. The inner sidewall contacted the shock and it was the same exact size tire.

However, because my rear tire sidewalls are flush with the fender molding, if I were to load down the rear end of my car with three adults, heavy luggage and drive over a very bumpy road, it may be possible the sidewalls could rub against the inner side of the fender molding. Having more poke (going beyond flush) could cause this to happen sooner with less of a load. Fortunately for me, I would never have a load like this. I have had 2 adults in the back with light luggage and have driven for several hundred miles without any issue.

Differences between our two setups: Your front will have about 7.4mm more inset (still have plenty of space between inner sidewall and strut) and 5.4mm more poke (outer sidewall will just barely protrude out past the fender molding). Your rear will have about 4.3mm more inset (this will be very close fit between your inner sidewall and shock) and 8.3mm more poke (will protrude past fender moulding that amount).

 

[Polar]

To answer one of your questions about using a 10.5" wheel with 275's, that is totally doable and most manufactures including Firestone, the one you want to go with, suggests a range from 9"-11". However, when you run a tire on the upper range of the recommended wheel width, my personal opinion is the sidewalls look a little stretched and I am not a fan of that look. I also don't like bulging sidewalls either. I tend to stick with using wheel widths that are right in the middle of the suggested size or one step narrower which is usually where the TireRack tests their wheel/tire setups.

Your staggered full spec measurements are very similar to my current setup and I will give you the approximate differences between the two. Both our setups are 20". My wheels are one size smaller than yours at 8.5" front, 10" rear. My tires are one size larger than yours at 255/45 front, 285/40 rear. Your offsets, 35, 45 and mine are 34, 47. I have no problem with any rubbing or suspension interference with my current setup, nor did I have any with a slightly larger set up I had in the past (265/45 front. 295/40 rear).

Also want to mention sidewall design vary between manufacturers and their model of tire. For instance, all Pirelli tires I've used have always had a rounded sidewall. My Michelin Latitude Sport 3's have a slightly flatter rounded sidewall where as my Pilot Sport 4s's have a very flat sidewall. That being said, you can have the same size tire between different manufactures or models and the sidewall can protrude more or less depending on the design of the sidewall. On my Focus RS, I had a Pilot Sport 4s that had a very close fit in the rear (inner sidewall to shock) but worked just fine. At one point, I replaced them with Pirelli Z-Zero's and they wouldn't fit. The inner sidewall contacted the shock and it was the same exact size tire.

However, because my rear tire sidewalls are flush with the fender molding, if I were to load down the rear end of my car with three adults, heavy luggage and drive over a very bumpy road, it may be possible the sidewalls could rub against the inner side of the fender molding. Having more poke (going beyond flush) could cause this to happen sooner with less of a load. Fortunately for me, I would never have a load like this. I have had 2 adults in the back with light luggage and have driven for several hundred miles without any issue.

Differences between our two setups: Your front will have about 7.4mm more inset (still have plenty of space between inner sidewall and strut) and 5.4mm more poke (outer sidewall will just barely protrude out past the fender molding). Your rear will have about 4.3mm more inset (this will be very close fit between your inner sidewall and shock) and 8.3mm more poke (will protrude past fender moulding that amount).

Thanks for the incredible response- I have some stuff to think through for sure, and likely will follow up with more questions.

 

[Polar]

@markboris
Thanks for the input - I believe logic beats out wants. I may want to lower/stiffen eventually and don’t want to have to change tires/wheels to make that happen.

As such I’ll go with a square set up and run 255/45r20 on the FF02 9” rims all around. When you increased in diameter - did the car adjust or was your speedo just off by the 1.5%? Not sure we have any calibration options available to us yet.

As for TPMS - 315 MHz sensors are what I need to make sure they install; and the car auto learns or is a programmer necessary?

 

[Ride_the_lightning]

@markboris
Thanks for the input - I believe logic beats out wants. I may want to lower/stiffen eventually and don’t want to have to change tires/wheels to make that happen.

As such I’ll go with a square set up and run 255/45r20 on the FF02 9” rims all around. When you increased in diameter - did the car adjust or was your speedo just off by the 1.5%? Not sure we have any calibration options available to us yet.

As for TPMS - 315 MHz sensors are what I need to make sure they install; and the car auto learns or is a programmer necessary?

My car auto-learned the new TPMS.

Sponsored