Safety Recall 22S41 - 2021-2022 Mach E - HVBJB Recall [high voltage battery main contactors may overheat]

[breeves002]

Will cars that have been repaired already for this failure need to go back in again? As I understand it, this repair requires the pack to be dropped and the part swapped out. That’s a serious undertaking and can’t be done in just a couple of hours.

This is going to cost Ford so much money and dealers are gonna be loving the warranty chargebacks.

Answer is probably yes. Yep it’s expensive! $1k part too!

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[Regularmache]

It's Allot easier than the valves on the Triton V8 or 3.0 Power stroke. The entire Body had to be lifted off and so many more fuel and cooling lines!

 

[joely]

Jowly welcome to the Forum, almost one month with us! Ford went back to reporting sales monthly under current CEO Farley. Production and delivery results are updated monthly.

Jowly!? Are you calling me fat??

 

[Logal727]

It's Allot easier than the valves on the Triton V8 or 3.0 Power stroke. The entire Body had to be lifted off and so many more fuel and cooling lines!

The battery coolant line has to be drained

 

[Regularmache]

First Edition here and zero recalls, new at least.

 

[pacman7474]

What model did you order?

Premium EAWD Iced Blue Silver

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

A year is 52 weeks. 52/4=13 Business, accounting, banking, all operate this way.

I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this. Mathematically you're right, but every single context I've ever dealt with, financial quarters are based on months, not weeks.

https://www.investopedia.com/terms/q/quarter.asp

Companies have the option of 13 week or 3 month quarters. Ford uses 3 calendar month quarters.

It’s not going to matter. Divide weeks by 4 to get 13 or use 3 calendar months. There’s an extremely high likelihood against a fix isn’t rolling out in July regardless.

Anf by the time “your” dealer gets it? Much later.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

It’s not going to matter. Decide by 4 to get 13 or use 3 calendar months. There’s an extremely high likelihood against a fix isn’t rolling out in July regardless.

Anf by the time “your” dealer gets it? Much later.

Indeed. If Ford had a snowball's chance in hell of getting this started in July, you can be certain they would have said that. My guess is that sadly "3rd quarter of 2022" likely means September.

That said, there is a silver lining to this admittedly pretty darn dark cloud: Ford has identified the problem, presumably has a fix (since it doesn't impact vehicles built on a go-forward basis), and is working to get this resolved.


I know I plan to keep driving my GT, though I hope Ford offers guidance regarding driving the car safely in the interim. In the interim I'll not drive it super hard! Haven't decided about whether or not to forgo DCFC road-trip charging though...

Keep the faith folks, keep the faith!

 

[Logal727]

Yeah would have been nice if we got some sort of tips on what causes it and what to avoid, hell they’ve got 3 pages long of tips on how to get PAAK to work right

 

[BMT1071]

Yeah would have been nice if we got some sort of tips on what causes it and what to avoid, hell they’ve got 3 pages long of tips on how to get PAAK to work right

Perhaps the letter that goes out to affected owners will have additional information. This is just the preliminary notice to dealers, which we as the general public shouldn't even be seeing. But that's how it goes in the internet age. Look at how well that went with owners bombarding dealers with demands to install BlueCruise prior to the official customer notification going out. ?

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Yeah would have been nice if we got some sort of tips on what causes it and what to avoid, hell they’ve got 3 pages long of tips on how to get PAAK to work right

I went back and looked and @DevSecOps has these recommendations for how to best avoid/be prepared:

What to do to prevent this from happening:

Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do, or not do, that we are 100% confident in being resolute. Because this is caused by excessive heat on the contactor driving in a style that won't cause excessive heat would be your best bet. Don't be afraid to charge the car or drive the car.

What to do in the meantime:

My personal recommendations -

• Back in to all parking spots
• Back in to the garage
• Install tow stickers (see here) (purchase here)
• Keep a tow card in the car (see here)
• Know the procedure for a dead LVB jump (refer to the manual here) - Page 267
• Know how to emergency tow the vehicle. Don't rely on the tow company. (refer to the manual here) - Page 271

If you experience "stop safely now" I would recommend -

• DO NOT attempt to start the car over and over! Save the LVB as much as possible and keep the car off
• As long as it's safe to do so, unlatch the hood but leave it shut, not latched, to keep the light off
• Roll down a window and close the door to keep the cabin lights off
• If you are at home, connect the LVB to a battery maintainer or charger
• If it were me, I would call my insurance roadside over Ford since they are much quicker, but that's up to you.
• Look to have it towed to an EV specialty dealer. They have the tools and battery lift to fix this. Ensure the dealer will accept the car before having it towed there.
• Get a case logged with Ford Immediately. Ford can put pressure on the dealer and expedite the replacement parts.

 

[silverelan]

Ford dealers often have just 1-2 techs that are EV-certified. If every single MME since January 2021 has to get this work done, the service departments are going to be back logged until forever. Any Ford dealer that opted not to get EV-certified is missing out on so much money.

 

[CaliFaceDoc]

@OutofSpecKyle has documented that pretty much every MME will momentarily go into limp mode when pushed hard. His background conversations seemed to indicate there’s some sort of current limiter that gatekeeps the power and dials things back as necessary. It’s quite possible that the contactors have been the weak point all along.

Honestly, I didn’t know all this background that you shared. But I agree and this was the first thing I thought of when I heard about this recall. And the more I read and think about it, the more I think you (and a few others) are right - I think this *is* related to the “5 second limit” on the GT, and the whole reason we are hearing about it is probably because the people on this forum are so noisy and excessively in love with these cars, that eventually Ford dig some digging and found out about the problem. And *maybe* the fix for the problem is a fix for the limiter?

Or maybe too much rose tinted glasses.

In the meantime, I’m putting my GTPE in whisper mode, and starting my own “grandma mode” driving style.

 

[RonOinAZ]

I hope this is the case. 5/16 build date but my MME didn't go into production until 5/24

It's interesting. Originally, I had a 5/16 build week but it was later moved to the 5/23 build week.
The modules showed up online this morning and I noticed this update this evening.

 

[Jim_I]

OK, not to seem dumb here, but HVBJB?

I assume HVB is High Voltage Battery, but what is JB?

So now, not only can't I charge my car, because the charge port seems to be overheating, but now I have to worry about it going completely dead on me? Or worse, my wife.....

If that happens, I will never be able to live down this purchase.

And of course, the repair involves dropping out the battery pack - What could possible go wrong there?

Please Ford, get these problems corrected quickly!

Jim

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