OWG

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Oh of course I am aware of this -- we seem to be hearing this is more prevalent for GT/GTPE to fry their junction boxes because there's more electricity and thermals on the GTs.

But this part is under-spec for the tolerances in non-GT Mach-Es as well, it apparently happens less commonly however.
Unscientific and self-selected data set going back about two months - 21 Non GT's, 7 GTPE, & 9 GT. Don't know what the take across the trims are so I can't say if GT's are over or underrepresented. The unscientific and self-selected data set does point to this being an ER AWD issue.
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Kamuelaflyer

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Unscientific and self-selected data set going back about two months - 21 Non GT's, 7 GTPE, & 9 GT. Don't know what the take across the trims are so I can't say if GT's are over or underrepresented. The unscientific and self-selected data set does point to this being an ER AWD issue.
It’s primarily a GT. and GT-PE issues. No one, however, is guaranteed immunity.
 

DevSecOps

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Unscientific and self-selected data set going back about two months - 21 Non GT's, 7 GTPE, & 9 GT. Don't know what the take across the trims are so I can't say if GT's are over or underrepresented. The unscientific and self-selected data set does point to this being an ER AWD issue.
Battery capacity has nothing to do with this. AWD pulls more power and generates more heat. Additionally, all GTs are AWD. So yes, more motors, more power, more heat, more welding. GTs pull more power than standard trims which make them more likely to fail. All that being said, no one is immune and no one is claiming this is just a GT issue.
 
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MustThee?

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Assuming replacing the hardware is the real effective solution, wondering about the cost to ford….any guesses on the cost for the part and the labor to replace it?
 

kdryden99

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Assuming replacing the hardware is the real effective solution, wondering about the cost to ford….any guesses on the cost for the part and the labor to replace it?
My guess 150+ million$ (1500+×100 000)
 


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July 1 update -- see below for a little more analysis of my DCFC session and messages in FordPass with the new software.

----

I’m keeping this somewhat brief because I have been up since 5am this morning and had a great morning drive to LA turn into the first ever contactor failure with the new recall software (according to Ford). So that took only two days for my junction box to fry itself after the software protection.

My car has the recall software fix and was completely every-module updated in FDRS as of yesterday June 29th. I drove it on a road trip with my family from the Bay Area to LA, this is a little over 5 1/2 hours plus two 20-30-ish minute DCFC stops. There's some terrain as you pass over the Angeles National Forest on I-5 into LA area. I was driving keeping up with traffic generally 75-80mph. Definitely not driving like a maniac and I was in whisper mode.

My car made it almost out of the mountains before LA, about 10-15 minutes after the second DCFC (which was from SOC 55-80% because I wanted the buffer before hitting the mountains) before it failed with a new DTC for contactors. We were almost out of the mountains on the descent when it failed (just before Six Flags Magic Mountain -- for those familiar with the drive).

See photos below with your new, exciting, slightly less-catestrophic failure experience to look forward to -- with some tips. We were able to drive the car on local roads (Google Maps “avoid highways” toggle FTW!) for an additional 1hr 37min to cover the 44mi to our hotel. From there I drove the car (after unloading my family and checking in) to the nearest Ford dealership all without turning the car off (see below for tips).

So Mach N Cheese is tucked in at the Alhambra Ford dealership for probably the next week, where very nice people from Ford are hopefully expediting the revised HVBJB to be installed starting Tuesday if all goes well. (Yes this dealer sorta looks like a taco stand -- without the tacos).

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I have a full video on the fun (until it was not) roadtrip that I’ll be editing over the coming days, but some quick tips on what happens with this genius new software if it thinks your contactors are failing.

You get this message WHILE DRIVING:

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No other information. But your power is then limited A LOT. Check out this power jail!

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DTC codes I had:

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Note you can clear these codes, and the car will pretend everything is great .... but really it is not. Don't kid yourself.

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DO NOT turn off the car if you get this wrench warning, you have a danger that it won’t turn on again and will be bricked. If you stop the car, much less turn it off, make sure you park nose-out because you very well might need a tow. Drive slowly, limiting power requested, to a dealership ASAP.

More later, but I gotta get some rest now that myself and my family have stopped safely now at our hotel :cool: Yes I had lots of expensive room service.

---------------

A little more from looking at FordPass.


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And my two DCFC sessions:

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Second charge below ended actually about 45 minutes I believe before the SVS (Service Vehicle Soon) code:

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Again completely normal behavior we should be expected to do with these cars.

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IMG_0518.PNG
Thank you for sharing the details of your experience. I just got the software recall done lat week, but your ordeal makes me second guess long road trips.
 

kdryden99

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I honestly don't think anyone should change their driving habits. If you know what to do, if and when it happens, its better than driving yourself crazy trying to change your habits. Don't lose any sleep over this. At the end of the day if it breaks they have to fix it. If there are enough failures they will be forced to change the recall. sucks to go through this but right now totally failed cars are a small percentage.
 
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scoopman

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Hi Scoopman, Would you please recommend an ODB reader and some tutorial(s) on their use? I think at least some of us here would appreciate that. Thanks.
I don't know if there's a thread on this, you might want to search. There are many decent ones on Amazon, just do a quick search for "OBD-II", should run you $30. Don't leave it plugged in all the time, the port is powered all the time and you will run out your 12V battery if you leave it plugged in when car is off.

App I used is Car Scanner, available in the App Store or Google Play. Connect your OBD to your phone via Bluetooth, then you can have that app talk with the ODB dongle and your car. The Car Scanner app has an icon to read diagnostic codes.
 
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scoopman

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I honestly don't think anyone should change their driving habits. If you know what to do, if and when it happens, its better than driving yourself crazy trying to change your habits. Don't lose any sleep over this. At the end of the day if it bresks they have to fix it. If there sre enough failures thry will be forced to change the recall sucks to go through this but right now totally failed cars are a small percentage.
I wonder what percentage of the failed cars are on road trips? That's when things get hotter from driving for hours and DCFC sessions.

I betcha this isn't 0.5% or less of Mach-Es that are driven longer distances, and this should give all of us some pause.
 
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scoopman

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Understand. Would not be clearing the code even thou I can unless service says so as it is under warranty. I would drive it like they want me to.

Sluggish so it was slow on take off but still not a traffic hazard? You were in the passing lane and kept on passing vehicles after. You then merged over to the slow lane and were still passing slower vehicles. Just not the same acceleration as normal as to not cause total failure?

It would be the drive of shame all the way home for me. They can tow it from here if it does not power back up again. Just a piece of tin and not to concerned about it getting towed. If it does power back up I may conduct more tests after we both cool down.

Should add your YouTube vid to the first post. I know we still will not see it there either ;).
Added YouTube in initial post, thanks for the reminder.

Also included some of my thoughts on the drastic 70% reduction in power after the SVS message. Note in my video I was on a long and relatively steep downward grade, and there was a break in traffic when I carefully moved over. I hardly had to use any of my throttle to change from the #1 lane towards the exit because of the steep downhill.

I want to note that most people will not necessarily be so lucky. We are all very used to immediate power with our cars (much more so than with any ICE car), and you will not be able to easily manouver and change lanes like you can typically do. You will have to mentally recalibrate your expectations for reaction time and car performance.

Also be aware if (and hopefully not when) this happens to you, it is a stressful event that you will probably not understand very well. You don't see the power reduction indication at all in a non-GT model, and for GT cars, you won't see any power reduction indication until you hit the "OK" to dismiss the warning. This all greatly increases what they call in the industry the driver's "cognitive load" which also makes manouvers and decision-making more challenging.

In short, I really would not want to be trying this out by choice, and how the software handles the failure warning alone has the potential to cause accidents.
 

kdryden99

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I wonder what percentage of the failed cars are on road trips? That's when things get hotter from driving for hours and DCFC sessions.

I betcha this isn't 0.5% or less of Mach-Es that are driven longer distances, and this should give all of us some pause.
I went on 400km road trip including multiple climbs, including a 400m climb up and down. DCFC'd 6-8 times on the trip. No issue there and back.

I had a Murano and a Rogue with a tranny that each let go on the highway. Car was in limp mode. Took forever to accelerate and could only reach 30kms an hour. So i know how scary the situation can be. Many of us bought this car knowing the risks. I was one of the first to get one. Even with everything i dont care. Its been great.

Edit: i drive once or twice a month 460kms in a day (sometimes dcfc 0-2 times on the drive no issues) im at 36000kms.
 
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scoopman

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I went on 400km road trip including multiple climbs, including a 400m climb up and down. DCFC'd 6-8 times on the trip. No issue there and back.

I had a Murano and a Rogue with a tranny that each let go on the highway. Car was in limp mode. Took forever to accelerate and could only reach 30kms an hour. So i know how scary the situation can be. Many of us bought this car knowing the risks. I was one of the first to get one. Even with everything i dont care. Its been great.
I'm glad your car (like the vast majority) is one of the good ones. However, I do not believe anyone should purchase this car assuming this type of risk, reliability, performance, or failure to make the situation right by Ford.
 

kdryden99

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I'm glad your car (like the vast majority) is one of the good ones. However, I do not believe anyone should purchase this car assuming this type of risk, reliability, performance, or failure to make the situation right by Ford.
While i understand your position, and it sucks, I wouldn't put any one off this car until i really get an understanding of the % of cars that will absolutely fail. Everyone is going on assumptions, but if everyone does that nobody would ever by anything.
 
 







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