The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS

[UN1075]

Just wanted to verify before I start messing with this for the first time tomorrow. Are all updates run in accessory mode? (Key on, car off)

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[Babbit]

Just wanted to verify before I start messing with this for the first time tomorrow. Are all updates run in accessory mode? (Key on, car off)

No, updates that require a USB drive to be plugged in require the vehicle to be Key on, Car On. Just make sure you that you read the instructions presented in FDRS. It will tell you which mode to be in.

 

[UN1075]

At the risk of sounding stupid, I had a few questions about hooking up the Pyramid power supply during the updates.

Just got it in the mail. I'm assuming both sets of posts are the same on the unit?

Also, what size wire did you guys use for your clamps? I have some leftover #8 thhn from my charger install I was going to use. Should suffice?

Set to 13V I assume?

 

[Babbit]

At the risk of sounding stupid, I had a few questions about hooking up the Pyramid power supply during the updates.

Just got it in the mail. I'm assuming both sets of posts are the same on the unit?

Also, what size wire did you guys use for your clamps? I have some leftover #8 thhn from my charger install I was going to use. Should suffice?

Set to 13V I assume?

This what I use. Might be to short for some but work great for me:

Amazon.com: ELECTOP Upgraded 10AWG Battery Alligator Clips Booster Jumper Cable, Battery Charger Clamps to O Ring Terminal Harness Wire, Quick Disconnect/Connect Cable for Inverter Car Battery Charging : Automotive

You want to set the power supply to 13.8v.

 

[UN1075]

This what I use. Might be to short for some but work great for me:

Amazon.com: ELECTOP Upgraded 10AWG Battery Alligator Clips Booster Jumper Cable, Battery Charger Clamps to O Ring Terminal Harness Wire, Quick Disconnect/Connect Cable for Inverter Car Battery Charging : Automotive

You want to set the power supply to 13.8v.

I ended up building these just now. I had some random 4 AWG and copper lugs laying around from a project a few years ago.

...and my wife said I'd never use that stuff ?

 

[shelnian]

The IPMA will take 3 hours

Be careful with this one, FDRS recommends a VCM3 or better. I monitored the laptop and power supply the whole time because I was using a VCM2 and worried about bricking the IPMA.

 

[UN1075]

Be careful with this one, FDRS recommends a VCM3 or better. I monitored the laptop and power supply the whole time because I was using a VCM2 and worried about bricking the IPMA.

Mongoose cable?

 

[rugedraw]

Be careful with this one, FDRS recommends a VCM3 or better. I monitored the laptop and power supply the whole time because I was using a VCM2 and worried about bricking the IPMA.

VCM3 is recommended because it writes faster, but a VCM2 or equivalent like a mongoose is fine with a proper power supply.

 

[Babbit]

Mongoose cable?

Mongoose cable will work perfectly with that power supply.

Just curious how old your 12v?

 

[UN1075]

Mongoose cable will work perfectly with that power supply.

Just curious how old your 12v?

That's the first thing I checked when I bought the car. I'm almost positive it was replaced recently because the plastic covers over the terminals were broken.

 

[Mike G]

Before buying your software license at the Motorcraft site...I recommend creating a new Ford login, (adding an email alias for an existing email account is one way to do it) that is not the same as your Ford owner/FordPass account. I learned that lesson the hard way when my Ford account got blocked because I was also using the same login credentials to use FDRS. This apparently resulted in 'suspicious activity', so my account was blocked. No Fordpass, No PAAK, couldn't login to the owner account. Not ideal. Took several phone calls over a week to get it unblocked.

After going through all the account verification steps and successfully logging in to the Motorcraft site with your new credentials....then do your license purchase for FDRS and use the new account login you created, to keep everything separate from your main Ford owner account.

 

[UN1075]

Wish me luck. I'm sweating bullets right now lol

 

[rugedraw]

Wish me luck. I'm sweating bullets right now lol

Turn off your screensaver and make sure laptop power settings are set for the laptop to not go to sleep or shut down. You'll be fine. If something goes wrong, we can help you fix it.

 

[Jeff-NoVA]

Before buying your software license at the Motorcraft site...I recommend creating a new Ford login, (adding an email alias for an existing email account is one way to do it) that is not the same as your Ford owner/FordPass account. I learned that lesson the hard way when my Ford account got blocked because I was also using the same login credentials to use FDRS. This apparently resulted in 'suspicious activity', so my account was blocked. No Fordpass, No PAAK, couldn't login to the owner account. Not ideal. Took several phone calls over a week to get it unblocked.

After going through all the account verification steps and successfully logging in to the Motorcraft site with your new credentials....then do your license purchase for FDRS and use the new account login you created, to keep everything separate from your main Ford owner account.

One note on this, Gmail ignores dots in email addresses. So if you have a Ford account of [email protected], you can create alternate Motorcraft accounts with [email protected], [email protected], etc. and you will still receive the emails without having to create a new Google account.

 

[benk016]

One note on this, Gmail ignores dots in email addresses. So if you have a Ford account of [email protected], you can create alternate Motorcraft accounts with [email protected], [email protected], etc. and you will still receive the emails without having to create a new Google account.

This is exactly what I do for my motorcraft/fdrs login.

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