Do you do you own seasonal tire rotations? If so, how?

jamesphw

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It's that time of year... I have my summer tires on rims, and weather is getting close to swap time. I've done this for years on my car, but the MME makes me nervous (it's heavy and there's a glass roof and battery I don't want to physically stress).

I'm used to jacking one corner at a time to swap the tire. Can I do that on the MME? Is there a safer way?
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Murse-In-Airy

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Yes it’s safe. As long as you know the proper jacking points. I have been doing this on two Mach-E for 4 years now. It’s still a car. In fact the frame is probably more stiff than you’re used to due to the weight of the car. The frame is so stiff that often, when jacking the front corner, the back wheel will also come off the ground. You may need a more heavy duty jack than you’ve had before though so check the rating on your jack.
 

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Yes it’s safe. As long as you know the proper jacking points. I have been doing this on two Mach-E for 4 years now. It’s still a car. In fact the frame is probably more stiff than you’re used to due to the weight of the car. The frame is so stiff that often, when jacking the front corner, the back wheel will also come off the ground. You may need a more heavy duty jack than you’ve had before though so check the rating on your jack.
uhhhhhhh, not in my experience. How high are you jacking the car if this happens???
 

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I had discount tire install the winters and they offer a free season switch. It's not hard to do but nice to have someone else do the heavy lifting.
 

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uhhhhhhh, not in my experience. How high are you jacking the car if this happens???
You don't have to jack the front up that high for the rear to come up off the ground too. Like Rod, I noticed the same thing and it is the only car I've ever had that has done this. I also agree with him that a more heavy duty jack is preferred with this car. While I have a lift in my garage for working on the car, my floor jack is only a 2 ton but it seems to work just fine for quick jobs.
 


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Yes it’s safe. As long as you know the proper jacking points. I have been doing this on two Mach-E for 4 years now. It’s still a car. In fact the frame is probably more stiff than you’re used to due to the weight of the car. The frame is so stiff that often, when jacking the front corner, the back wheel will also come off the ground. You may need a more heavy duty jack than you’ve had before though so check the rating on your jack.
On the subject of tires my tires are just about gone and need replacement at 25k.

They are Michelin total performance tires which are OEM.

I was looking at Pirelli all season electric tires as a replacement .

any suggestions?
 

music_cities

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In some ways I miss changing my own tires, but my single-car garage is really too small to do it safely and too small to store my summer tires. So, I get Kaltire to do the storage and the swap. I usually also get a chance for a nice walk home, or back, or even both; once I tried waiting in the shop for them to get it done and it was brutal.
 

Teslaeata

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It's that time of year... I have my summer tires on rims, and weather is getting close to swap time. I've done this for years on my car, but the MME makes me nervous (it's heavy and there's a glass roof and battery I don't want to physically stress).

I'm used to jacking one corner at a time to swap the tire. Can I do that on the MME? Is there a safer way?
You really don’t need to worry, jacking won’t twist the frame, break pano or distort battery/frame.

I jack under at the jacking point, then put the axle stands under just in front or behind Jack, then you can lower Jack onto stands, do the same on other jacking points even getting all 4 corners off the ground if you need.
 

Teslaeata

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On the subject of tires my tires are just about gone and need replacement at 25k.

They are Michelin total performance tires which are OEM.

I was looking at Pirelli all season electric tires as a replacement .

any suggestions?
Mich Cross Climate 2 are really good, excellent grip all year round, no noisier than OEMs and I haven’t experienced much if any difference in range. They’re wearing well, too.
 

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You don't have to jack the front up that high for the rear to come up off the ground too. Like Rod, I noticed the same thing and it is the only car I've ever had that has done this. I also agree with him that a more heavy duty jack is preferred with this car. While I have a lift in my garage for working on the car, my floor jack is only a 2 ton but it seems to work just fine for quick jobs.
Wow...I have swapped tires at least four times and never had the rear come off the ground...
 

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Wow...I have swapped tires at least four times and never had the rear come off the ground...
I guess I should say the rear will not come off the ground if you lift the front off just enough to take the wheel off but if you start lifting more, then the back starts coming off the ground. I haven't done this in quite some time since I just use a lift but I remember that happening.
 

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Get yourself a sturdy piece of scrap oak board, resembling roughly a 2x4 shape, about 38 inches long. Center this between the Fr & Rr Jack points, and lift the whole side with a quality, properly rated floor jack, then slide your jack stands under, in the correct locations; repeat on the opposite side. Quickest, safest way to lift the car without a garage lift.
 

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It's that time of year... I have my summer tires on rims, and weather is getting close to swap time. I've done this for years on my car, but the MME makes me nervous (it's heavy and there's a glass roof and battery I don't want to physically stress).

I'm used to jacking one corner at a time to swap the tire. Can I do that on the MME? Is there a safer way?
I swap the tires one corner at a time with a 3.5 ton floor jack and blocks intended for the job. The rule of thumb is your floor jack needs to be rated for 75% of gross weight. The blocks are taller than the channel they fit in to give me a visual whether I’m flat or not. Something to really watch for is that the floor jack wheels roll inboard as you lift (indicating you are lifting flat to the surface). The approved lift points on the Mach-E are actually part of the battery frame, so you lift the battery and the battery lifts the vehicle. I notice no twisting of any kind and no lifting of the other corner of the vehicle. I am too lazy to tighten the nuts manually, so have an impact wrench and torque limiting extension bars with hardened sockets. Lastly, pls pay attention to lug nut torque requirements. It’s 150 ft-lb which is at the top of the range for common torque wrenches.

Oh, one more: make sure you clean the studs and center bore from all the shit that gets stuck on them.

Here’s a link to the blocks I use (and yes, I realize they are a total overkill, but they make me happy and that’s more important than the $110 I spent on them three years ago):

https://quickjack.com/pinch-weld-blocks/
 
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markboris

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jamesphw

jamesphw

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I swap the tires one corner at a time with a 3.5 ton floor jack and blocks intended for the job. The rule of thumb is your floor jack needs to be rated for 75% of gross weight. The blocks are taller than the channel they fit in to give me a visual whether I’m flat or not. Something to really watch for is that the floor jack wheels roll inboard as you lift (indicating you are lifting flat to the surface). The approved lift points on the Mach-E are actually part of the battery frame, so you lift the battery and the battery lifts the vehicle. I notice no twisting of any kind and no lifting of the other corner of the vehicle. I am too lazy to tighten the nuts manually, so have an impact wrench and torque limiting extension bars with hardened sockets. Lastly, pls pay attention to lug nut torque requirements. It’s 150 ft-lb which is at the top of the range for common torque wrenches.

Oh, one more: make sure you clean the studs and center bore from all the shit that gets stuck on them.

Here’s a link to the blocks I use (and yes, I realize they are a total overkill, but they make me happy and that’s more important than the $110 I spent on them three years ago):

https://quickjack.com/pinch-weld-blocks/
Great info thanks @GreaseMonkey and all who provided advice. I'm more comforable with the change now.

I'll go ahead and get a new jack -- I knew my 1.5 Ton wouldn't be enough for the MME, but maybe it's a good idea to go up to at least a 3 ton.

I think I'll grab a hockey puck as a jack block, for $1.99 that seems to be the best price/performance.
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