MoonRiver

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Does the car keep all its settings such as profile, your phone, radio setting after the battery replaced?
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mkhuffman

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Does the car keep all its settings such as profile, your phone, radio setting after the battery replaced?
For me, the radio station presets were erased. Everything else was remembered. I am still gradually getting all the radio presets back in place. ?
 

MoonRiver

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https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/12v-battery-faq.32744/

To replace the 12v battery it said to remove the negative cable from the strut tower before take it off from the battery pole. Doesn’t the latter serve the same purpose? When you put the new battery in with the cable connected to negative pole then mount the cable back to the strut tower you’re going to create sparks. With the cable mounted on the tower then connect to the negative pole it has less sparks because it’s less movement to fit the cable to the pole.
 

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Unfortunately I got stuck on the step where you remove the BMS electrical connector attached to negative terminal. The connector will not come off even when I squeeze the tip of it and pull. Tried everything but it doesn't want to come off. ?
you do not need to remove the BMS from the connector. just loosen the connector, and slide off post.... once you have it off, its a good idea to wrap in a rag and move it out of the way so it doesn't flop around while replacing the battery.
 

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For me, the radio station presets were erased. Everything else was remembered. I am still gradually getting all the radio presets back in place. ?
radio presets I think were the only thing lost when I replaced mine.
 


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https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/12v-battery-faq.32744/

To replace the 12v battery it said to remove the negative cable from the strut tower before take it off from the battery pole. Doesn’t the latter serve the same purpose? When you put the new battery in with the cable connected to negative pole then mount the cable back to the strut tower you’re going to create sparks. With the cable mounted on the tower then connect to the negative pole it has less sparks because it’s less movement to fit the cable to the pole.
You know, I didn't remove the negative cable from the strut tower, just directly from the battery and I had plenty of slack. Maybe it's just to keep sparking away from the battery? I figured it was less of a huge deal since the battery is sealed....
 

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You know, I didn't remove the negative cable from the strut tower, just directly from the battery and I had plenty of slack. Maybe it's just to keep sparking away from the battery? I figured it was less of a huge deal since the battery is sealed....
Last night just out of curiosity I tried to see if I could open the door when the battery out of juice when the door is locked, so I removed the stud mounting the negative cable to the strut tower. Without 12v the door couldn't unlock itself.
When reconnected the cable back to the strut tower while I hand turned the stud into its thread it sparked a lot because the connector rubbed against the body. That made me thinking that there wouldn't be that much sparking if it were connecting to the battery pole, since that would only be snapping on to the pole, wouldn't be much of rubbing to create sparks.
 

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Last night just out of curiosity I tried to see if I could open the door when the battery out of juice when the door is locked, so I removed the stud mounting the negative cable to the strut tower. Without 12v the door couldn't unlock itself.
When reconnected the cable back to the strut tower while I hand turned the stud into its thread it sparked a lot because the connector rubbed against the body. That made me thinking that there wouldn't be that much sparking if it were connecting to the battery pole, since that would only be snapping on to the pole, wouldn't be much of rubbing to create sparks.
you should disconnect + terminal connector first, then .... no sparks ;)

reverse when connecting neg first, the pos terminal.
 

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you should disconnect + terminal connector first, then .... no sparks ;)

reverse when connecting neg first, the pos terminal.
That'll minimize the sparks. So there is no need to touch the other end of the cable that goes to the strut tower. I don't see why Ford asked to disconnect it.
 

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Well I think you should still be able to get the battery out if that doesn't come off. You can remove the negative battery cable from the strut tower and flip it out of the way, or remove the frunk and slide the battery forwards to get it out.
I did successfully replace the battery without disconnecting the BMS monitor. Thank you all for the suggestion.
 

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That'll minimize the sparks. So there is no need to touch the other end of the cable that goes to the strut tower. I don't see why Ford asked to disconnect it.
It depends on the battery extraction method. It is much easier to get the battery out if you remove the ground wire when using the method that does not require removing the tub. If you remove the tub, I think you can slide it the opposite direction and avoid the wire.

I moved the cross bar out of the way, and needed to move the ground wire out of the way to lift the battery out.
 

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It depends on the battery extraction method. It is much easier to get the battery out if you remove the ground wire when using the method that does not require removing the tub. If you remove the tub, I think you can slide it the opposite direction and avoid the wire.

I moved the cross bar out of the way, and needed to move the ground wire out of the way to lift the battery out.
What you said makes sense. I haven't replaced my 32 months old battery yet, but disconnected and reconnected it last night. Disconnecting doesn't spark but connecting. I would remove the cross bar when I drop a new in, would connect the ground wire to the body before pushing it down to the battery negative pole, to minimize the sparks.
 

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I would remove the cross bar when I drop a new in, would connect the ground wire to the body before pushing it down to the battery negative pole, to minimize the sparks.
For those watching at home, you only need to disconnect the side of the cross bar that is near the battery. Then you lift that side off the post, and rotate it out of the way. I pushed it toward the cab. Once the new battery is in, you rotate it back to the post and tighten it down.
 

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Unfortunately I got stuck on the step where you remove the BMS electrical connector attached to negative terminal. The connector will not come off even when I squeeze the tip of it and pull. Tried everything but it doesn't want to come off. ?
Does it matter when to disconnect the BMS sensor? before negative cable disconnected or after? Would the sparks created when connect the cable burn the sensor if it isn't disconnected?
 

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Unfortunately I got stuck on the step where you remove the BMS electrical connector attached to negative terminal. The connector will not come off even when I squeeze the tip of it and pull. Tried everything but it doesn't want to come off. ?
Thank you for this, it clearly took a lot of work and it is very helpful. I just had my 12 v battery replaced (under warranty) and now I am seeing intermittent ( about once a week) "electrical system drain" and "plug in to maintain 12v battery" messages on my Ford pass as well as my dash on start up. I am heading in to the dealership again (3rd time for this fault) to see what they say. After illuminating everything else, I am leaning toward the headlight switch but we will see.
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