12V Battery FAQ

[ERIC8585]

You will probably be fine with the 1000A NOCO, that is a good quality pack. The reason I recommend 2000A is because some of the cheaper Chinese brand boost packs severely inflate their amperage ratings. For example, Project Farm recently did a video—one of the Chinese examples had an amperage rating of 4000 amps, but only produced ~400 amps on the load tester (only 1/10th of it's rating). FYI the 1000A NOCO comes in at 366 peak amps in real testing. You need to make sure your jumper can provide 200+ real amps while voltage stays above 10.5V for several seconds. Kyle from Out of Spec also has a recent video where multiple jump packs all failed to provide enough juice to boost a Rivian, the only solution that fully succeeded was old fashioned jumper cables off a running Crown Vic.

Also the inrush demands of the Mach-E coming off a dead battery are quite high, the initial spike while the modules power up can be hundreds of amps. There have been numerous cases where jump packs were not able to boost the Mach-E because they didn't provide sufficient inrush amperage for long enough to get the modules to boot.

Last, just another reminder that you must use a booster pack with an override button, or it won't work to open the frunk. The NOCO has this (red exclamation mark button).

Thanks for the explanation. I had to use it once for the frunk. Worked fine for that, anyway.

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[Maquis]

Nice. Which jump pack?

The brand is “Tacklife”. Bought it on Amazon long before I got my Mach-E. Guessing it’s 10 years old by now.

It does have an ‘override‘ button.

 

[awp0]

Replaced my 12V battery (myself) on my almost 4 year old 2022. Probably should have done it earlier, and the app notification/warning finally got me motivated. Huge thanks to @Mach-Lee because the instructions at the top of this thread were perfect.

Also, I was able to order the battery from Ford online for pickup at a local dealership. I used Ford points to save $80 or so and it was nice to give them the old battery to dispose of.

Word of advice: if you have multiple dealerships nearby, try selecting the different locations on the Ford website, because I noticed some of them had crazy markups on price.

Also, I lost a couple of clips while detaching the plastic frunk covers. I'd recommend either being careful when unclipping, or order a set of replacements or maybe 3D print them (or don't worry about it, which is my plan!).

Anyway, here's to another 60k miles. Maybe. Got my eye on an R2.

 

[ERIC8585]

Replaced my 12V battery (myself) on my almost 4 year old 2022. Probably should have done it earlier, and the app notification/warning finally got me motivated. Huge thanks to @Mach-Lee because the instructions at the top of this thread were perfect.

Also, I was able to order the battery from Ford online for pickup at a local dealership. I used Ford points to save $80 or so and it was nice to give them the old battery to dispose of.

Word of advice: if you have multiple dealerships nearby, try selecting the different locations on the Ford website, because I noticed some of them had crazy markups on price.

Also, I lost a couple of clips while detaching the plastic frunk covers. I'd recommend either being careful when unclipping, or order a set of replacements or maybe 3D print them (or don't worry about it, which is my plan!).

Anyway, here's to another 60k miles. Maybe. Got my eye on an R2.

Good job, I kept ignoring the notifications and then reset the BMS. Well, one day it just completely died. Luckily it was parked in the garage.

Anyway, the dealer tried to sell me the battery at a higher price when I got there vs what they told me on the phone. I was also missing a clip and they were $5 a pop at the dealer

 

[Wayne-001]

I think this is the most recent 12V battery thread.
I received a notice about replacing the battery several months back. Got busy with travel and didn't get around to it right away. I had a few other problems: had to hit the door lock button several times for it to work, sometimes door did not unlock when trying to open it (had to unlock via app). Both of these I thought might be battery related (which they were). But, I also had my heater stop working. Anyway, when I brought my MME into Ford for a new battery and to look at the heater / locks, the new battery seemed to have solved all problems. I didn't think the heater was definitely battery related, but I guess it was. My battery health was 65% when I brought it in to swap. Was at 24K miles and 3.5 yr, but mostly parked in my garage (MME rarely sitting out in TX heat).
Anyway, don't ignore the battery warning message for too long!

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