Any challenges to removing calipers

kdryden99

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Seems unlikely to hurt anything by giving it a try.
My biggest concern would be maintaining the brake fluid level so that an electronic bleed wouldn't be needed. Pretty sure there's no workaround for having a scan tool when it comes to that.
I'll preface this by saying, if you dont have experience touching brakes, or doing mechanic work avoud my post completely.

In my past experience unless you are disconnecting the brake lines bleeding shouldnt be necessary. Removing the caliper from the hub, you are not dusturbing the brake fluid lines and you have no risk of adding air to the closed system. If there is air in the lines, it was already there before you touched the brakes. As soon as you touch the Master brake cylinder or the brake lines, thats a different story. Again this being an ev it might be different, but to be on the safe side you can always open the brake fluid reservoir, pump the brakes a few times to make sure. Also with the reservoir closed, if you pump the brakes and they get stiff after 2-3 pumps, your brakes are working fjne. If it still feels mushy after 2-3 pumps then you have to bleed them. Being an EV you have the advantage of 1pd mode and can use that to bring the car to get it bled via the scan tool.





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Murse-In-Airy

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I'll preface this by saying, if you dont have experience touching brakes, or doing mechanic work avoud my post completely.

In my past experience unless you are disconnecting the brake lines bleeding shouldnt be necessary. Removing the caliper from the hub, you are not dusturbing the brake fluid lines and you have no risk of adding air to the closed system. If there is air in the lines, it was already there before you touched the brakes. As soon as you touch the Master brake cylinder or the brake lines, thats a different story. Again this being an ev it might be different, but to be on the safe side you can always open the brake fluid reservoir, pump the brakes a few times to make sure. Also with the reservoir closed, if you pump the brakes and they get stiff after 2-3 pumps, your brakes are working fjne. If it still feels mushy after 2-3 pumps then you have to bleed them Being am EV you have the advantage of 1pd mode and can use that to bring the car to get it bled via the scan tool.
Thank You.
I’ve done plenty of brakes and used to do all my own mechanical work. As things have gotten more technical and less mechanical, I just like to know what I am getting into before I start disassembling things. My F150 has the electronic parking brake that I have to put into service mode. I just wanted to know if there was anything even more technical than that. Any tips are good tips. Thank you for sharing yours.
 

kdryden99

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Thank You.
I’ve done plenty of brakes and used to do all my own mechanical work. As things have gotten more technical and less mechanical, I just like to know what I am getting into before I start disassembling things. My F150 has the electronic parking brake that I have to put into service mode. I just wanted to know if there was anything even more technical than that. Any tips are good tips. Thank you for sharing yours.
Trust me your post is for me as much as it is for you. I was planning the to do the same but getting my friend who has a body shop to do it since I want these professionally done this time. So I have to make sure he knows about the E-brake procedure. My post was more for those who have never done this before since your thread might become a reference for others.
 
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MSP Mach E

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I just had my fender flares painted space white and the calipers done in red. Take it to the best collision guy in your town, and make sure they do their own mechanical and don't sub it out...
 

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I just had my fender flares painted space white and the calipers done in red. Take it to the best collision guy in your town, and make sure they do their own mechanical and don't sub it out...
How much did that run you, if you don't mind me asking?
 

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How much did that run you, if you don't mind me asking?
It was $1900. It took a while since they had to bleed the brakes, clear the codes with a new OE software update on the scan tool and have BASF scan the paint because Ford hasn't released the code yet.

Compared to the Black Flares, worth it to me... Makes the stance of the car look considerably wider...
 
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The whole brake bleed procedure for this vehicle is a nightmare. Wish it didn’t require all the codes and clearances and step by step diagnostic computer stuff.
 

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It was $1900. It took a while since they had to bleed the brakes, clear the codes with a new OE software update on the scan tool and have BASF scan the paint because Ford hasn't released the code yet.

Compared to the Black Flares, worth it to me... Makes the stance of the car look considerably wider...
I agree, worth it. It gives the car more of a sedan/hatch look than the SUV look. Very nice.
 

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Or use caliper covers. Someone will have them soon. Anyone reading in the San Diego County area? MGB Caliper Covers may have a deal for you.
There not much space between the calipers and the OEM wheel. Could paint in place but a for a proper powder coat it needs to be removed.
 

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For Mach-E:

Brake Service Mode Activation and Deactivation
Activation

mreqid=6c6842eb-df2b-ed31-1c1b-56142701d400&sig=X7.jpg
WARNING: Service actions on vehicles equipped with electronic parking brakes may cause unexpected parking brake application, which could result in injury to hands or fingers. Put the electronic parking brake system into service mode prior to servicing or removing rear brake components. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

mreqid=6c6842eb-df2b-ed31-1c1b-56142701d400&sig=X7.jpg
WARNING: Service actions on vehicles equipped with electronic brake booster without activating the brake system service mode may result in unexpected hydraulic brake application or a false leak detection DTC. This will significantly reduce the performance of the brake system. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

NOTE:
Brake service mode is also known as brake maintenance mode.

NOTE: Prior to carrying out the brake service mode activation steps below, clear all EPB and EBB related DTC's.

NOTE: Carry out the following service mode activation procedure to deactivate the EPB and EBB systems. The EPB and EBB system can also be deactivated using the diagnostic scan tool and following the on-screen instructions.

NOTE: This mode is required to deactivate the brake boost and to allow the entire brake system to be bleed manually.

NOTE: This mode will cause all the associated brake warning indicators and text messages to appear.

  1. Set the ignition to ON.
  2. Release the EPB.
  3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch to the RELEASE (downward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and EPB switch.
  4. Set the ignition to OFF then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
  5. Set the ignition to OFF then release the accelerator pedal and EPB switch.
    • NOTE: The brake system will be deactivated, preventing brake application until service has been completed and service mode has been deactivated. The yellow EPB indicator will be illuminated and Maintenance Mode will display on the message center.
    • NOTE: When replacing brake pads in service mode, the brake caliper piston must be compressed into the caliper housing. The brake caliper piston does not have to be rotated while compressing the piston.
Deactivation

NOTICE: The brake system performance will be significantly reduced when the brake system is put in service mode.

NOTE:
Carry out the following Brake Maintenance Mode deactivation procedure to activate the EBB and EPB systems. These systems can also be activated using the diagnostic scan tool and following the on-screen instructions.

  1. Set the ignition to ON.
  2. Press and hold the accelerator pedal.
  3. Place the EPB switch in the APPLY (upward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
  4. Firmly press the brake pedal for at least 1 second. Release the brake pedal while continuing to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
  5. Set the ignition to OFF then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds, then release the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
    • NOTE: Once the ignition is set to ON, the EPB system will immediately apply and release the parking brake to guarantee sufficient air gap between the rear brake pads and brake disc. If the EPB switch is not released prior to completion of this sequence, it will apply the EPB. The EPB will have to released prior to moving the vehicle.
    • NOTE: When Brake Maintenance Mode is deactivated, the Yellow Parking Brake and Red Brake Warning Indicators turn off and "Brake Maintenance Mode" no longer displays in the message center.
 

Totallyford

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Thanks everyone for the answers and thoughts.
I first wanted to get the calipers completely off and prep them well before spraying them. I don’t want to do this on the vehicle as I don’t want to paint any of the wires, brake lines, rake pads, rotors, or worry about overspray on my paint. I know I can mask all that stuff, but I still worry about missing something.
If electric bleeding is required, maybe that’s a bit too much for me. I do not have access to FordScan. So if I can at least get the brakes into service mode I can pull the calipers but not disconnect the lines and brush paint them I found some nice brush on caliper paint kits that lookquite nice when done. I think I’ll go that route once I make sure I can get into service mode.
If even service mode is unattainable, then I’ll mask everything and brush paint them inplace, but that is my least desired option.
Can't remember if you bought aftermarket wheels. With the stock wheels very little of the caliper shows. I purchased a brush on paint kit on Amazon for around $50.00. The hardest part of the job was jacking up the car frt an back at the same time, you only have a 5hr pot life to do both sides. The paint went on very easy and only took two coats. I recommend you wear a respirator or be prepared for headache. They recommend not driving it for 12hrs to let the paint cure. The finished product is very glossy, self leveling and seems to be quite hard. I was very happy with the results.
 
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Can't remember if you bought aftermarket wheels. With the stock wheels very little of the caliper shows. I purchased a brush on paint kit on Amazon for around $50.00. The hardest part of the job was jacking up the car frt an back at the same time, you only have a 5hr pot life to do both sides. The paint went on very easy and only took two coats. I recommend you wear a respirator or be prepared for headache. They recommend not driving it for 12hrs to let the paint cure. The finished product is very glossy, self leveling and seems to be quite hard. I was very happy with the results.
I ended up doing a brush on kit on my car a few weeks ago. I still moved the calipers, got the rotors and backing plates out of the way, and then put the calipers back on the brackets. I used Duplicolor on my car. Just today I did the wife’s car with a brush on Por15 paint. It was much better quality but has a 24 hour dry time. So her car remains on stands to be reassembled tomorrow.
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Luke

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I ended up doing a brush on kit on my car a few weeks ago. I still moved the calipers, got the rotors and backing plates out of the way, and then put the calipers back on the brackets. I used Duplicolor on my car. Just today I did the wife’s car with a brush on Por15 paint. It was much better quality but has a 24 hour dry time. So her car remains on stands to be reassembled tomorrow.
92711D9B-14B4-43C5-8F03-E47EEC6404D6.jpeg
I guess the other car you used red. Can you post some pictures? I was thinking in doing mine red as well. Thanks.
 
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Murse-In-Airy

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I guess the other car you used red. Can you post some pictures? I was thinking in doing mine red as well. Thanks.
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The calipers were my first mod. I don’t even recognize that as my car now. 🧐
 

NoVAguy

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I just had my fender flares painted space white and the calipers done in red. Take it to the best collision guy in your town, and make sure they do their own mechanical and don't sub it out...
For the fender flares, did you buy the primed fender flares from Ford parts a d have that painted at the collision shop? Or were they able to apply the paint onto the black ones that come with the vehicle?
 

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