Are FDRS updates that easy

Trax

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I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPB55NM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

paired with
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PBBQ1QY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had no issues with the IPMA/PSCM updates that took 3 hours. The voltage of my battery never moved during the update which registered as a steady 45 amp draw from the power supply.
That is an interesting solution. I was wondering about a solution like this as well. I have one of these but its 24v. Not a bad price either
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HuntingPudel

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Do you or anyone have links to a good 40amp 12v power supply? Im finding it hard to source one online because there are so many 12v power supplies for so many different applications. Thanks in advance!
I had a 50A unit that died on me at the beginning of a long update. That was a seriously puckering event. I ended up getting a Chlore PL6100 100A supply. Some people use two PL320 20A supplies in parallel. The PL3740 should also work great. Just don’t skimp. It’s not worth it. ??
 

Jimrpa

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The license is nowhere near $2,500.

Screenshot 2024-04-22 at 3.03.47 PM.webp


And the hardware was not close to $1,000. I spent $130 on the power supply and $450 on the adapter. I think the adapter is now $100 more.

So $580 for the hardware and looking back I have spent $500 total on licenses in the past 25 months.

A total of $1080 in my 25 months of ownership. $540 a year.

A lot of people spend that or more on their hobbies each year.

I see a lot of value in applying the updates myself. I never am waiting for an OTA. I get to use features much sooner than the average owner. For example, I have been driving around with BC 1.4 for months.

Sure it would be nice if the dealer would apply updates on demand but even if they did it for free there is still my lost time dealing with the dealer. It will take hours longer to deal with the dealer than to apply the updates myself.

I don't see me using FDRS as being any different than someone spending $1000's a year on golf.
I stand corrected on pricing. I completely understand the “hobbyist” aspect - it’s no different than people working on their own ICE cars - replacing blinker fluid, adding enhanced spring bouncers, and so on. As I’ve said many times, the chances that I would brick my car if I tried any of this are pretty close to 100%. Personally, I want Ford to get their stuff together.
 

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Some of the updates can take hours to finish, so you need sustained 40-50A tops.
The single biggest thing that stops me from pursuing FDRS.
 

dcheng

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I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPB55NM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

paired with
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PBBQ1QY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had no issues with the IPMA/PSCM updates that took 3 hours. The voltage of my battery never moved during the update which registered as a steady 45 amp draw from the power supply.
I purchased these items as well, and I finally did my first updates this weekend. The connectors are pretty short, so I struggled to find a good way to balance the power supply in the frunk. Do you have any recommendations for where to put the power supply during an update?
 


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MrLoganRoss

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OP here.

I bought the PL6100 and a Mongoose adapter. I drilled holes with caps so I don’t have to remove the trim all the time. I rest the power supply on a table next the the frunk. Other than issues FDRS has had in recent weeks, I have been able to run updates - although the latest version of sync is still not accessible to me.
 

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I purchased these items as well, and I finally did my first updates this weekend. The connectors are pretty short, so I struggled to find a good way to balance the power supply in the frunk. Do you have any recommendations for where to put the power supply during an update?
I have holes drilled so the power supply just sits on the plastic beauty covers.
 

HuntingPudel

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I purchased these items as well, and I finally did my first updates this weekend. The connectors are pretty short, so I struggled to find a good way to balance the power supply in the frunk. Do you have any recommendations for where to put the power supply during an update?
I use a rolling service cart. ??
 

dcheng

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I have holes drilled so the power supply just sits on the plastic beauty covers.
OK. I drilled the holes before I got started, and it still seemed a little precarious. I think I just need to find a better way to balance it since the cables are so short. I couldn't find anything longer with the 10 AWG wire, O ring, and alligator clips. I didn't want to go to 13 AWG or 16 AWG with the potential amps that were being pulled.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL3740-Intelligent-Charger/dp/B0C46ZJ7B1

Or you can do two of the ones you text me at the same time, but I think this is a better option for less than $40 more. This won't work as a trickle charger, though, but those are cheap if you think you'll be leaving you car sitting for a while often.

I actually bought this one, and after 6 months it stopped putting out the proper amps in power supply mode.

And their warranty process is taking the unit to a service center, which I had none anywhere near me. So it's just a brick for me now.
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