Audio System Not Working

[kikibop]

I fixed it. I was a pain to get to the fuse box in the frunk, but fortunately, I didn't actually have to pull the fuse. I found a way to disengage the entire fuse assembly without actually removing any fuses. Here is a video of the solution.

How to Power-Cycle MME Electronics via Frunk Fuse "Hack" (e.g. to reset non-working audio/amplifier.

Awesome success story and excellent video. I was hopeful it’d work for me but no such luck. :/

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[AEtherScythe]

Awesome success story and excellent video. I was hopeful it’d work for me but no such luck. :/

We're getting the software update for this problem, in the morning. Suggest you do the same.

 

[Roger Richard]

I fixed it. I was a pain to get to the fuse box in the frunk, but fortunately, I didn't actually have to pull the fuse. I found a way to disengage the entire fuse assembly without actually removing any fuses. Here is a video of the solution.

How to Power-Cycle MME Electronics via Frunk Fuse "Hack" (e.g. to reset non-working audio/amplifier.

Hi,

Is there a video that shows how to remove the plastic in order to have access to the battery? I don't want to damage the clips.

Thanks

 

[AEtherScythe]

Hi,

Is there a video that shows how to remove the plastic in order to have access to the battery? I don't want to damage the clips.

Thanks

BTW, In my video I say battery a lot, but what I mean is the low-voltage battery.
Also, I'm told by Ford that really you're not supposed to connect a charger directly to the low-voltage battery. They have some kind of protection circuit in between that contact point and the battery and apparently you could cause a problem if you by-pass while the battery terminal is still connected. I suppose if you completely remove the terminal connectors before attaching a charger that should still be fine, but in my experience charging the low-voltage battery via the intended connecting terminal does work fine. Haven't had any LVB issues since early; not since they applied a software fix in February.

 

[Tampamike]

As another data point …

I had an audio failure the other day. After reading this thread, I believe it occurred while charging at an EA DC fast charger. There was a charger fault at about 50% and it stopped. I switched units and while waiting for the charge to finish, I noticed that the audio had disappeared when an incoming phone call wasn’t playing over the speakers.

Today I tried AEtherScythe’s fuse box reset technique from the video. It worked. I left it disconnected for about 10 minutes. I clamped the fuses back in and a waited a few minutes before turning the car back on. Audio came up right away. All seems to be working now.

As for the plastic covers and clips - it was easier than I thought. Just feel around the edges for the resistance points and pull up. I did have a couple clips come off the covers when I lifted them off but I found them. Lift them off gently. Reinstallation was fairly straight forward.

 

[AEtherScythe]

Today I tried AEtherScythe’s fuse box reset technique from the video. It worked. I left it disconnected for about 10 minutes. I clamped the fuses back in and a waited a few minutes before turning the car back on. Audio came up right away. All seems to be working now.

Glad it helped. Even so we had the PAAK and the update for the audio issue applied shortly after I posted the video and we haven't had any issues since. Good luck! =D

 

[Tampamike]

Glad it helped. Even so we had the PAAK and the update for the audio issue applied shortly after I posted the video and we haven't had any issues since. Good luck! =D

How long did it take for the dealership to do both updates?

 

[AEtherScythe]

How long did it take for the dealership to do both updates?

We scheduled it on a Friday and they fit us in on a Wednesday morning and we had it back by close at 5 p.m. But they also updated a bunch of other things. We live in Dearborn and we had another concern and our contacts at Ford told us there was a fix for that, too, so we got all the latest software/firmware in one go. That's why it took more than a few hours.

 

[BillysBalloon]

I fixed it. I was a pain to get to the fuse box in the frunk, but fortunately, I didn't actually have to pull the fuse. I found a way to disengage the entire fuse assembly without actually removing any fuses. Here is a video of the solution.

How to Power-Cycle MME Electronics via Frunk Fuse "Hack" (e.g. to reset non-working audio/amplifier.

Thanks for posting this video. I've had my car since Feb, and the audio just went out on it on Saturday. Was worried I'd have to drive around with out any tunes for 3 weeks until I could get into the dealership, but now with 10 minutes of work, it's working perfectly again!

 

[macchiaz-o]

Thanks for posting this video. I've had my car since Feb, and the audio just went out on it on Saturday. Was worried I'd have to drive around with out any tunes for 3 weeks until I could get into the dealership, but now with 10 minutes of work, it's working perfectly again!

Justyn.... This is some dark stuff!



I love it.

 

[Tampamike]

Update: I thought I fixed it but I found one issue still remains. My navigation won’t speak commands. It starts off with the standard “Obey all traffic rules, etc.” then shuts up. No directions at all. Anybody had that happen?

 

[louibluey]

FWIW, I would suggest (unless Ford says differently) not opening those multi-pin connectors unless absolutely necessary. There are literally rows of tens of relatively fine pins and sockets. If any one pin is damaged (bent or broken), you are looking at a very costly repair. Another caution is that opening either or both of those connectors, slowly under power is randomly opening some of those circuits in odd order, possibly with some arcing, not so much an arcing hazard per se, but more intermittently powering the various loads.

If you need to power down the low voltage systems, or one fuse that you cannot get to, I would just loosen and pull the negative 12V LVB terminal. I tape the open ground cable to the cross bar with a short length of electrical tape so it does not fall back down on the negative battery terminal when I am doing electrical work.

Some may disagree, but I can tell you that I've had the frunk apart, the fuse box entirely open (It disconnects from the main buss when you first pull the module away from the mount), and I did not dare open those connectors knowing how bad things can go if a pin gets bent or broken.

 

[AEtherScythe]

FWIW, I would suggest (unless Ford says differently) not opening those multi-pin connectors unless absolutely necessary. There are literally rows of tens of relatively fine pins and sockets. If any one pin is damaged (bent or broken), you are looking at a very costly repair. Another caution is that opening either or both of those connectors, slowly under power is randomly opening some of those circuits in odd order, possibly with some arcing, not so much an arcing hazard per se, but more intermittently powering the various loads.

If you need to power down the low voltage systems, or one fuse that you cannot get to, I would just loosen and pull the negative 12V LVB terminal. I tape the open ground cable to the cross bar with a short length of electrical tape so it does not fall back down on the negative battery terminal when I am doing electrical work.

Some may disagree, but I can tell you that I've had the frunk apart, the fuse box entirely open (It disconnects from the main buss when you first pull the module away from the mount), and I did not dare open those connectors knowing how bad things can go if a pin gets bent or broken.

We'll then. Given all the potential issues, why doesn't Ford just put a big power-cycle button some place prominent?

 

[Tampamike]

Update #2: So, after hunting around on the forum a little more - DOH! I now see that there is an audio mute icon on the map when navigating a route. I never noticed it before and guess what? If you touch it with a finger it turns the audio off or on. All fixed. Thanks to whoever posted that gem.

 

[jcharnet]

We'll then. Given all the potential issues, why doesn't Ford just put a big power-cycle button some place prominent?

You should never need to power cycle your car. It's just a work around, but ther real fix is to update the DSP module , that can only be done at a dealership.

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