Brake Grinding Noise

highland58

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I just learned recently in this forum that regen does not happen when in neutral. When my brakes are wet from rain or washing the car, I drive up to the top of a nearby hill, start down the hill and put it in neutral. I then ride my brakes for a bit to "scrub" them of any rust, and to dry them off. I then park my car with dry clear brakes, no rust as a result, and no scraping when driving. So far I have been very happy with the results.
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So, about 12,500 miles in and I have just started noticing the brake noise being mentioned above. Has anyone been able to get their issue with the brake noise resolved at this point and can you let me know what it took to fix it? I was thinking it was due to snow/ice build up now that Chicago's roads are covered in muck all the time...
Hi there! Can you send us a PM with your VIN and Ford dealership information? I’d be happy to look into this on my end.
 

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I just learned recently in this forum that regen does not happen when in neutral.
I've read that on this forum as well. But when I tried it, I still got 100% on the brake coach in Neutral, so I'm not so sure. I'll check it with Car Scanner at some point.
 

Green Machine

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I did a solid bed in on my brakes...don't matter...they are just noisy. Same grinding noise slow and reverse.
Mine does exactly the same thing. no big deal if it is designed to function this way.
 

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I've read that on this forum as well. But when I tried it, I still got 100% on the brake coach in Neutral, so I'm not so sure. I'll check it with Car Scanner at some point.
I checked quickly in CarScanner the other day, and I got no regen while in Neutral when using the brake pedal. Not sure why the brake coach would still give you a 100% score - maybe it is just going off the rate of deceleration and assuming it regenerated? But in my case, whenever in Neutral the car just pulled the idle load (about 4kW at that time, quite cold out), and I saw no change in power when decelerating to a stop.
 


generaltso

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I checked quickly in CarScanner the other day, and I got no regen while in Neutral when using the brake pedal. Not sure why the brake coach would still give you a 100% score - maybe it is just going off the rate of deceleration and assuming it regenerated? But in my case, whenever in Neutral the car just pulled the idle load (about 4kW at that time, quite cold out), and I saw no change in power when decelerating to a stop.
Thanks for testing that.
 

Terik2005

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Hi there! This doesn't sound like an experience we want you to have with your Mach-E. Could you please send a us a PM with your VIN and the name and location of your Ford dealer? I'd be happy to see how I can assist you with this concern on my end.
Im having the same issue!
 

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Same issue here, so I took it to the dealership today and was just informed that they were shaving down the rotors. Doesn't sound like the "right" solution to me given I've only had the car since October, so I asked why not replace rather than shave down and was told "...that is what Ford has instructed us to do." Is this how others had the issue remedied?
 

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Same problem. Dealer says it’s “Flash Rust” on rear breaks. Dealer has talked to Ford and are going to follow Ford’s instructions to correct the grinding noise. We have 11,000 miles. What about just stomping on the brakes periodically to engage the rear brakes? If not, I’m guessing that the grinding will return. My thinking is that living with this annoying noise is not acceptable. If we live with it, how would one know if you had a real break problem?
 

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Regenerative braking is a double-edged sword. It puts energy back into our batteries, but that means we use the brakes less. As @Indy Mike said, use your brakes regularly to wear the rust off of the braking surfaces and prevent new build-up from forming. ??
 

Neil4Real

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Same problem. Dealer says it’s “Flash Rust” on rear breaks. Dealer has talked to Ford and are going to follow Ford’s instructions to correct the grinding noise. We have 11,000 miles. What about just stomping on the brakes periodically to engage the rear brakes? If not, I’m guessing that the grinding will return. My thinking is that living with this annoying noise is not acceptable. If we live with it, how would one know if you had a real break problem?
That's why it is recommended to shift to neutral every once in a while to force the car to use friction brakes and get rid of any brake dust. It is also wise to do this after a car wash to heat them up and dry them off a bit. If any pad is actually sticking to the rotor, then there is a bulletin for that and the dealer is to resurface the rotors and replace the pads.
 

Neil4Real

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Same issue here, so I took it to the dealership today and was just informed that they were shaving down the rotors. Doesn't sound like the "right" solution to me given I've only had the car since October, so I asked why not replace rather than shave down and was told "...that is what Ford has instructed us to do." Is this how others had the issue remedied?
If there is actual sticking, meaning brake pad transfer to the rotor, then the dealer is supposed to resurface the rotors and replace the pads. If there is no evidence of sticking, usually some will actually be stuck to the rotor, then some dealers are still resurfacing the rotor, but it'll just keep coming back as the problem comes from the type of pads used. Although newer MMEs are not supposed to even be using the pad that causes the problem.

You can put your car into neutral every once in a while to force the friction brakes to be used, this is a good habit to ensure you clear any brake dust/dry them after a wash.
 

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That's why it is recommended to shift to neutral every once in a while to force the car to use friction brakes and get rid of any brake dust. It is also wise to do this after a car wash to heat them up and dry them off a bit. If any pad is actually sticking to the rotor, then there is a bulletin for that and the dealer is to resurface the rotors and replace the pads.
Shifting into neutral and applying the breaks makes a lot of sense. Thank you.
 

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